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Lijiang
Friday 20th November
Fresh off the night train, we have taken only a few steps out of the train station in Panzhihua before a bus conductor ushers us onto a number 64. We pay 3 yuan (30p) and place faith in the fact that the lady may have a greater understanding of where we need to be than indeed we do. A man gives up his seat as though my huge bag renders me pregnant or elderly, for which I am immensely grateful. We listen to the conductor alternate between shrill shouts as stops approach and lark like singing. 40 minutes later we descend the bus at the 'coach station.'
Here we are whisked into the care of a man, who counts our heads, takes me past the queue formed at the booth, helps me buy my ticket and gets us on the once hourly bus to Lijiang with a minute to spare.
Perhaps these people have seen enough hapless backpackers to understand where they are heading and which transport they will need, but the kindness and patience of the Chinese we have come across still never fails to move me.
The bus was cattle-class, foul smelling and cramped. 9 hours through beautiful scenery passes quickly though and we were soon in Lijiang.
Lijiang is set in a picturesque valley with a stunning mountain backdrop. We were staying in the old town, Dayan, and we soon discovered it was a labyrinth of cobbled alleyways lined with traditional wooden houses and crossed with clear streams and stone bridges. As if it wasn't pretty enough, the whole place was lit with yellow lights and red lanterns.
We were looking lost. A young man approached and introduced himself as Sky. He offered to walk us to the hostel, chatting about his dreams of working in Paris as a cocktail waiter. He handed us his card, on which he had handwritten 'my name is Sky. I am a super magic drinks boy'. He impressed us with his French, 'I have been learning French and am good. Merci, bonjour, au revoir, je t'aime' stops to giggle, 'I make a kidding'. We are sold and agree to visit his cousin's restaurant for a drink. Sky gives us time to change and then reappears to escort us yet again.
We ordered a hot pot. This is where you order a broth and different vegetables/meat, then cook them in the boiling soup on your table. This one was particularly delicious. The flavour of the broth was perfect and the vegetables cooked just right. We happily emptied the bowl.
At various points Sky would appear and have a little chat, or stroll out onto the bridge over the stream and serenade us. We complemented him on his voice to which, with complete sincerity, he replied, 'I am one of the world's greatest singers.' This man just kept getting better. The next day he promised to sort us out with some bikes, so we decided to visit a town North of Lijiang.
Saturday 21st November
The Naxi (pronounced Naschi) Minority, numbering about 278, 000, live in Sichuan and Yunnan provinces, with Lijiang as their spiritual capital. The hostel we were staying at was called Mama Naxi's and was in a traditional wooden Naxi house- wooden everything! Mama (which she insisted everyone call her) was the boss of this well run family business. This was not unusual, as Naxi society's matriarchal nature results in women controlling businesses, but also doing most of the work!
We decided to ride out to Baisha, a sleepy village 6 miles North of Lijiang, to experience Naxi culture in a less contrived environment. The cycle ride was along a straight flat road, framed by mountains. It took us about an hour, but it should have taken 30 mins. Alex decided to take us on a detour towards some mountains that looked like Mordor!
We wandered around. We were the only tourists so it had maintained a quiet and peaceful charm, as locals played games and chatted amongst themselves. We arrived towards the back of the village and it was here that we had the good fortune of meeting Dr Ho. I had read a little about Dr Ho, but meeting him in person was an honour.
Dr Ho is a Daoist physician, made famous by travel writer Bruce Chatwin and visited by Michael Palin. After having undergone great difficulties growing up in China, he became very ill as a young man but was able to use the healing properties of the plants found on Jade snow Mountain to heal himself. He studied botany and developed his knowledge. People from around the world have travelled to seek advice from him and he has had some astounding results. He spent an hour telling us his life story, and finished with his advice, 'a simple life, simple food, happiness is the best medicine.' It may seem like an obvious philosophy, but spoken by this elderly man with a twinkle in his eye, it felt like we had been given a gift.
We left the clinic and strolled over to an open courtyard house, whose owner was keen to offer a drink and snacks. Now, this man was the classic definition of a 'character'. I had read that Naxi men were expected to while away their time as gardeners or musicians.He dressed in traditional Naxi hat and fur waistcoat and was hugely proud of his garden. He showed us photos of the flowers in summer and encouraged us to taste dry fruit from his garden. There was one plant in particular he was very proud of! He sang Naxi music for us and played the flute. We ate Naxi bread which was delicious, like a sponge cake made from corn and sesame seeds. We were sad to pull ourselves away, but time was ticking on.
The reason for the rush was Mama Naxi's much recommended 'family dinner'. We sat down and for 15 yuan (£1.50) were brought plate after plate of delicious food. Al and I went out for a coffee in a lovely teahouse. We were joined by the proprietor's Chihuahua, who took a liking to al. Every time he attempted to put it down, it immediately sprung back into his lap in one bounce. We headed home and packed our bags ready for the Tiger Leaping Gorge.
- comments
Gisela Hi Sarah, would love to know where you are spending Christmas. Happy Christmas. All ok here, waiting for snow. lots of love Gisela
Karen B Hi Sarah, Just heard about your blog from Catherine.You've missed your vocation as a travel writer! I thought it was amazing and it brings the country vividly to life.It was the staff Christmas meal last night and your prescence was sorely missed.Very cold here with snow showers.Joyeux Noel wherever. K