Beijing- Summary

The 'Hall of Supreme Harmony' is the largest hall in the Forbidden City. Nearing the end of our time in Beijing, it feels as though the city rather than the hall could easily wear this title. Beijing is an enchanting place, where breathtaking architecture and scenery go hand in hand with heavy industry and pollution; where modern ingenuity and super-efficiency sit in front of a backdrop of ancient history; where 15 million people move rapidly through the 6-lane 'mega roads' and discrete winding hutongs, yet emanate tranquillity. As I sit at the top of Jing Shan's summit and gaze at the Forbidden City shrouded in mist, I can hear an almost constant song of car horns. And yet Beijing works in harmony, and is one of the most wonderful places I have been.

Tuesday 3rd November - arrival and first wander

We decided to get the bus from the airport. A taxi would have been cheap but we came to a group decision that having missed an entire night's sleep, if we could still take on Beijing's public transport, our trip would be off to a good start. Bus to Dongzhimen, metro to Dong Si, 3 minute walk to the hostel- easy! The hostel was colourful, clean and incredibly welcoming.

After heavy snow the previous day, the sky was now clear and bright. It was also bitingly cold. The only option was to wear everything in our bags. I had a power nap, grateful of my -7 degrees sleeping bag, as Al and Lynz got the feel of the neighbourhood.

That evening we wandered up to the Forbidden City with Anoop, a fellow 'hosteller'. Everywhere was quiet and peaceful. We slept well.

Wednesday 4th November - Tian'an Men Square and The Forbidden City

The alarm went at 5.50. We (Al, Lynz, Anoop and I) left the hostel at 6.10, and set off to find Tian'an Men square, hoping to see the raising of the flag at sunrise. We saw sunrise, but missed the flag, as we were busy circum-navigating the huge moat surrounding the Forbidden City!

We eventually saw the huge red pillars that line the square. We could see them, but between us lay 12 lanes of traffic! Tian'an Men Square (security check, as we have now learnt happens in any public place) was covered with brightly coloured hats bobbing about, flocking to queue for something. We discovered these were tour groups desperate to catch a glimpse of Chairman Mao's frozen body. Luckily this was not something I felt compelled to join the 30 000 strong queue for! Instead we marvelled at the vastness of the square.

Needing fuel before the Forbidden City, we ventured South into Quiamen, set on finding the some of the only traditional Hutongs still left in the city. We wandered aimlessly taking in the impoverished breeze-block alleyways. An hour later, after giving up on the hunt for hutongs, we fell upon a nameless Cantonese breakfast bar. We sat at a table of locals and were brought a Cantonese breakfast of dumplings, hot sweet condensed milk and soup. The experience was wonderful- the food was not! Heading back towards the F.C. (Forbidden City, not football club!) we stepped aside for numerous groups of young People's Liberation Army recruits, marching in green uniforms. From a distance they appeared threatening, but as we brushed shoulders, we noticed their youth and disguised giggles.

Under Mao's giant face, we entered the Forbidden City: vast, ornate and precious. It was completed in 1420 and is a lasting monument of dynastic China from which 24 emperors ruled for nearly 500 years. The symbolic center of the Chinese universe, the palace was the exclusive domain of the imperial court until the abdication in 1912. It was only opened to the public in 1949.

Exhausted and contented we went for a late afternoon nap- right through to the next morning.

Thursday 5th November - Cycle Tour, 798 Art District and Night Market

At 7.30 we (Al, Lynz, Anoop, Wayne and I) were off on a cycle tour of Beijing. Those of you who have visited will know that this is a version of Russian roulette. Sides of the road, lines and lanes mean very little, traffic lights even less. It was a good job we had our local guide, or I think we would still be waiting at our first road crossing!

We survived and were rewarded with picturesque Hutongs and stunning views of Hou Hai Lake. Half way through we stopped at a type of playground which you find all over Beijing, designed for adults! They comprise of large, durable pieces of gym equipment, open to all. It was full of locals, many elderly, undergoing their morning workout, Tai Chi and group dance. We were invited to join a group playing a hybrid game made up of football keepy-uppys, with a shuttlecock type ball. Fantastic fun and great exercise! I need some practise though so have since purchased one. On my return, expect me to be a pro.

Local buses cost the equivalent to 9p for any length of journey, so in the afternoon we used one to ride 30 minutes across Beijing to the 798 Art District. This is an eclectic mix of modern art galleries housed in abandoned factories and surrounded by some still in full swing.

There seemed to be a fascination with faces and body form, as well as sculptures of cartoon-like creatures- colourful and shiny. As we walked round, steam would escape through pipes, grates and walls adding to the experience. A very interesting afternoon.

Because we hadn't walked enough (!) we decided to visit the night market. Squirming scorpion on a stick anyone? I similarly declined, but enjoyed pushing my way through the brightly coloured market and eyeing up the produce- much of it unrecognisable to me. During our well deserved beer at the end of our day, the market lights went out leaving us sat in the dark as every last stall suddenly packed away within minutes. Message understood, we strolled home.

Friday 6th November

The self-made wall tour

6am rise, 6.30 leave. The self-made wall tour was off. None of these overpriced hostel tours for us! If we were going to see one of the wonders of the world, we needed to earn it.

We (Al, Lynz, Anoop, Wayne and I) took the underground to the bus terminus. We were escorted kindly to the bus station by a lady wearing a brown coat. Rather than just point the way she proceeded to follow us, sometimes lurking behind a pillar or pretending to be on her phone. For the next hour, as we waited for somebody who was going to join us, she appeared everywhere! One minute she would be behind us, then pop up in front of us without any perceivable way of getting there. Maybe she was a Chinese guardian angel- maybe not.

We made the bus and departed on the first leg of our journey. After about an hour we had entered and then left the centre of Miyun, the city we were heading for, and were beginning to feel jittery. We were told to stay on till the end, but the scenery was looking barren. Suddenly a taxi driver jumped on, hunted us down at the back of the bus (we stand out over here) and shouted that this was the stop we needed. We were warned this may happen, as taxis want to make the onward journey longer and therefore the fare higher. He got first dibs on our will power, but we stayed strong! Luckily our faith paid off and we arrived in a 'bus station' on the outskirts of Miyun.

We were here set upon by a pack of taxi drivers. We needed a taxi to complete the last part of our journey, so after some serious haggling we agreed a price with one- 150 yuan for the full trip. Out of sight of the other drivers on a barren track, he pulled over and very convincingly explained why he needed another 50 yuan. Between the 5 of us, this made the trip £4 each for a 90 mile journey. We felt more than happy to agree.

Apart from this pit stop, our driver didn't believe in stopping- for anything! Anything on the road needed overtaking, even when we were faced by juggernauts. I couldn't look. So eyes closed I hoped for the best.

We arrived in Jingshanling, a village overlooked by the striking silhouette of the towering wall. We gazed in awe, before beginning the climb up onto it. The stretch of wall was made up of renovated and original parts. The low lying mist, though possibly spoiling the views slightly, gave the wall a mystical presence.It was much hotter here than in Beijing, the sun was at high noon, we de robed and looked to the distance as the wall disappeared over sharp hills into the void.

We passed only a few other tourists on the 11km walk. The inclines were near vertical steep with huge steps, but we were rewarded with spectacular views of the snaking wall connected with imposing watch towers. Along the way we were met with sellers, offering refreshments for next to nothing. We learnt they were Mongolian farmers- incredibly friendly, beautiful people. One lady taught Alex how to count, as she walked home with us towards her village.

We descended the wall at Simatai across a rope bridge. Lynz completed the final descent on zip-wire, while I jogged down to try and beat it! Our driver was waiting at the bottom, as was an American called Patrick. Having paid upfront for his taxi he had predictably been left behind- naive! He got in with us.

As we drove away, I was left with the feeling that this truly was a once in a life time experience.

Back in Beijing we went out and had a banquet for dinner. The Chinese laughed at the amount we had ordered- we enjoyed it just the same!

Saturday 7th November - National Art Gallery, Jing Shan Park and the Chinese Acrobats

We decided on a relaxed pace for the day and broke into groups depending on what we wanted to see. Al and I had breakfast at the hostel. Over our food, we had a basic Chinese lesson with one of the friendly hostel staff- please, water, numbers, goodbye- covered!

We wandered over to the Beijing National Art Gallery, which was 5 minutes from the hostel. The building itself is light and airy and had a wonderful 'flow' to it. The ground floor comprised of portraits and paintings, all exquisite. Lots of the other exhibits were interactive and the atmosphere was surprisingly much more relaxed than at any other gallery I have visited. I particularly liked the tower of cushions to the ceiling, which moulded to you as you collapsed into them. This proved a welcome daydream spot.

We walked out into mist, along the road to Jing Shan Park. We climbed the hill which gives the best vantage point in the city to appreciate the size of the F.C.It was in this park that the last Ming emperor Chongzhen hanged himself from a locust tree in 1644, when rebel troops infiltrated the city. At the top there is a giant Buddha where people queue to pay their respects. We sat at the top and enjoyed the view for an hour.

That evening we met Lynz and Wayne to go to the Chinese acrobats. This was amazing! Such talented performers and so young!

Sunday 8th November - Summer Palace and the Silk Market

Today we (Al, Lynz, Anoop, Wayne and I) visited the Summer Palace (Yihe Yuan). This served the Qing Dynasty as an imperial retreat from the stifling summer confines of the F.C. The grounds are beautiful and vast, so we strolled around without a plan, admiring things we came across. By the seventeen-arch bridge linking South Lake Island to the mainland was a Chinese band. Around here people flew elaborately designed homemade kites, while others twirled ribbons. We had a go at this and were taught the correct way to make it dance.

A popular pastime here is drawing Chinese characters on the ground using a giant brush and water. We came across a man doing this and he encouraged us to have a go, demonstrating beautifully. He was a very patient teacher and gave Lynz a hand painted scroll with some lettering on.

We left the tranquil grounds to head to the hectic silk market. Spread over 6 floors, this is paradise to shopaholics! Every perceivable make/ product available for next to nothing and the quality is perfect. Pricing works on a haggling basis, therefore the sellers will ask for far more than they expect you to pay. I was interested in a t-shirt similar to the 'I love NY' ones, but 'I love Beijing'. Luckily I was stopped just in time. Naively I had not noticed what the initials for Beijing could also be read as. I'll leave that one with you. I instead purchased 2 t-shirts for £5.50 altogether. Haggling is not my forte though, and at one point I started going up!

Pleased with our purchases, we returned to the hostel for a beer and an early night.

Monday 9th November - The Bird's Nest by night and a swanky restaurant

We woke up, excited by the prospect of travelling to our next destination, but sad to be leaving Beijing. We had a slow-paced morning, repacking bags and organising onwards travel. We were having difficulties booking anywhere in Datong, our next destination. It seemed everywhere recommended in guides was closed. We began to wonder if Datong closed down for winter! We were persistent and kept trying, neglecting to monitor the time! A decision we regretted as we ran through the train station, 2 minutes post departure time!!! Oops.

All was not lost. We had been told tickets, even if you missed the train, could be exchanged. However, nobody in the train station spoke English. We ascertained that there was a train at 00.38. This would involve travelling overnight so we needed to try to get sleeper beds. We were still struggling with the basics- 'please could we have 3 hard sleeper beds?' would be pushing our Chinese competencies somewhat. So, problem solving hats on, Lynz and I decided to perform a 'sleeper train' improvisation. I played the sleeper, Lynz the English backpacker, and we even roped Al into being the conductor. Somehow we managed to come away feeling we had a vague understanding of how we would get beds.We'd just get on and have faith that there would be some spare beds, we'd then pay the conductor for the upgrade. (There is a conductor/official for every carriage - very helpful, they usually have a wee office by the bogs)

It was only around 5 o'clock at this point, so we had some time to kill in Beijing. I had wanted to see the Bird's Nest so we hopped on the underground. Lit up at night this structure is a striking piece of design. We took a few pictures celebrating our Olympic wins- you can but dream!

The extra time also presented Al and Lynz with another opportunity to succeed in their quest for Peking duck (renamed Beijing duck!) So following a recommendation in The Rough Guide, we headed for a restaurant known for good, yet cheap duck. The description did not do it justice! We arrived at the most stunning courtyard restaurant. Wealthy, well-dressed Chinese ate in little rooms off the courtyard, as birds sang from their perches. We were assigned 2 waiters, given a special gift and spoilt rotten! As we waited for the food entertainment began in the courtyard: noodle 'tossing', tea pouring (an art if you could see the length of the spout) and mask dancing. There was even a unicycle in their somewhere!Al and Lynz enjoyed their duck- definitely worth the wait!

So all in all, a very pleasant evening. Good job we missed that train!

Once on the train we fell straight to sleep, with extremely fond memories of our week in Beijing.