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"Baska Voda, Number 1 Municipality in Croatia" read the sign as we entered Baska Voda, descending down the steep road leading to the built up waterfront area. Promising, we thought. Turns out that this small Croatian place we'd never heard of (until I was booking accommodation on the Internet) is a major tourist destination. The beaches were crammed with bodies as we drove by looking for our rental apartment. We searched for a carpark along the packed waterfront, as people drifted along the footpaths and occasionally across the road in front of us as well. No sooner had we stepped out of our car, then a young guy on a bike and wearing a fluro vest pulled up beside us and tried to charge us for parking. Not sure whether he was a legitimate parking warden or not, we fobbed him off by explaining that we would only be stopped 5 minutes because our apartment had private parking. Since our encounter with the boy on the bike, we have seen many more fluro vested wardens (they do seem to be legit) charging people for parking anywhere from marked carparks in town, to the gravel strip on the side of the road.
Our apartment is above a restaurant on the waterfront and has both double glazing and air con, both of which are essential to a good night's sleep. On the downside, the bathroom is minuscule with a shower too small to turn around (and we don't even have Croatian-sized beer bellies!), and the bed is so old that the springs scream in protest at the slightest movement! The location is ideal for exploring the waterfront area and has a conveniently positioned pizzeria next door (which serves good pizza and the cheapest drinks we've seen in Croatia so far). The car is also well looked after in a nearby carpark at the marina with sea views.
Our first priority upon getting settled, was a cooling swim. We headed off to the beach on our right, which appeared marginally less crowded than the beach to our left. At first glance, the water looked clear and inviting. As we ventured out beyond waist deep we noticed bits of weed, pine needles and other plant matter floating in the water. There were also the odd bits of rubbish floating by. Grossed out by the poor quality of the water, and the bratty German boy that kept splashing us (Dale made sure to splash him back as we were leaving) we decided to walk along the coast and see if the beach at the other end of town was any better. It was a challenge to find a pathway to the sea through all the sun bathers, sun umbrellas, towels, and deck chairs, but when we did make it to the water, it was a lot less murky than at the first beach.
The people watching has been fascinating! We have seen bodies of all shapes, sizes and hairiness. Topless blondes, g-string wearing grannies, and even an Eastern European in a Borat mankini (I'm not joking!!! But hopefully he was...) We have seen multiple shades of sunburn, from rose tinted butt cheeks to fire engine red beer bellies, to the dappled pink indicative of poorly applied sunblock. Strutting around one of the beaches was a hulk of a man (in fact, he may actually be the Hulk wearing bronzer) with the largest chest and biceps I've ever seen! Each bulge was the size of a birthday balloon and it was a physical impossibility for him to have his hands by his sides.
The local car parking habits have also been eye opening. Apparently it is perfectly acceptable practice to park on the side of the road facing towards oncoming traffic, it is ok to pull over and park without indicating, and it is even alright to park in the roadway - provided you put your hazard lights on. We have seen parking where one wheel is on the curb, parking at a ninety degree angle between two cars in parallel carparks (so that half the car is still stuck out in the road and moving traffic must change lanes to get around it) and, most astonishing of all, one chap who actually parked his car on the inside lane of a roundabout! (Yes, actually exited the vehicle, locked it, and walked away with it still on the roundabout!!). Ignoring road rules is the norm around here - we get tooted at by Croatians when Dale drives at the speed limit or stops at a stop sign.
I am not sure whether it is a Croatian predilection or the influence of German tourists, but beer is the drink of choice. It is available all hours of the day and night, usually consumed by the half litre. However, I have not been able to enjoy chilled beer in the heat of the day with the others, as one of my wisdom teeth is playing up and the ache seems to get worse if I drink beer. This is annoying for two reason, (1) I am rather partial to a cold beer on a hot day and I hate missing out, and (2) I am forced to consult my dentist, who then launches into another lecture on why I should have had my wisdom teeth removed before going travelling... Neither helpful nor sympathetic!
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