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Back to Essaouira and I know you're wondering why I'd go back when I said the last time I'd been there that I'd seen all there was really to see. Well, that was then, this is now. And now the town is overwhelmed by the week-long Gnaoua and World Music Festival which has completely taken over the town. The crowds here are incredible, streets I remember sauntering down with ease you now have to fight your way through. I was a bit worried about accomodation, considering it was festival time and I didn't have anything booked. But Mela and Mathieu were staying in an apartment with some others who'd gotten there before us and said there'd be room for me. It took us a while to find, but eventually we dropped our bags and at down in the apartment. Scarily (for about an hour) there was no room in the apartment for any of us as their friends had made some more friends along the way and invited them too. But after searching the town for somewhere to stay (preferably within sight of our price range!) and not having much luck at all, we were told that the landlord had another empty apartment below the 1st which he could let us have. He actually gave it to us for less per person than the others were paying, even with more people. So that worked out well (phew!), and it was great having an apartment instead of a hotel or hostel for once. That night we went out to the festival - around 3 big stages (one on the beach)and several small ones dotted around town. The vibe was great and a couple of the guys staying in the other apartment were Moroccan so they showed us a rolicking good time! Teaching us how to dance in the Gnaoua way, and upping the energy levels of our group astronomically. Gnaoua style dancing is wild, mainly jumping up and down, stamping your feet and waving your arms. No-one except the tourists are self-conscious and everyone's screaming and shouting and really getting into it. During the day we split up and shop or listen to the smaller stages or just wander around absorbing the amazing energy and vibe in the streets. On our last night, we get some bottles of wine and some fingerfood (apertifs as Mathieu calls them) and bring a load of cushions and a rug up to the roof terrace (a mainstay of Moroccan houses) and have a fun picnic Moroccan style before heading out one last time to the festival. On the morning on Monday 25th, we al pack up and reluctantly say goodbye to Essaouira. We're now headed back to Marrakech.
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