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We were escorted off out train by a 'taxi driver' who was going to take us the 45 min journey to Varanasi in his taxi. His taxi turned out to be a tuktuk and after waiting around for 15 minutes we realised that he was waiting to take 6 people and all out luggage. We told him we would find another was so unfortunately for him, we walked off we got another guy to take us to 'Granny's Inn Guesthouse' which was great because he told us he knew exactly where he was going. He had no idea. So we drove around Varanasi for a while and eventually found Granny's Inn around 6am. Granny let us in then we went for a much needed sleep in a single bed (a prison cell) on the top floor. We got up around 9 and went for breakfast with a filmmaker from Delhi. We had some cornflakes, rice and toast then headed out with the young guy who worked in the guesthouse for a walking tour of Varanasi. He took us around the old part of Varanasi which is made up for long, winding, narrow and unbelievably dirty streets. We spent a couple of hours dodging cow s***, rotting food and local men pissing in the street. Despite the dirt, is was an absolutely fascinating place. We ended up at the Gange river and met some holy men. He took us around the Nepalese temple and showed us the erotic carvings from the 18th century. We continued around the old town talking to locals, beggars, holy men and cows. Finally we ended up at the Blue Lassi - the best Lassi shop in town we had a mango and a chocolate lassi and spoke to an Aussie couple before heading back to the guesthouse. Later in the afternoon we went for a walk to go and see the cremations. We met an very irritating local man who insisted that he be our tour guide. After telling him to go away a number of times and telling him that I wouldn't be giving him any money, he continued talking to us and following us. He wins the Perseverance Prize - hand down. We watched some of the cremation ceremonies take place from a viewing area just above the river. We walked through piles and piles of wood that they use to burn the 300 bodies a day. We spoke to a man there who explained the process to us. He told us that the bodies and taken into the Gange before burning takes place, then the wood is lit from the 3000 year burning eternal flame. We learned that children, animals, pregnant women, holy men and lepars and the only ones not burned. They are taken into the river and have a rock tied to them and sink to the bottom. We stayed for around 20
minutes and watched a few cremations. It was difficult viewing. Sure enough, put persistent guide was waiting for us. We trekked back through the streets this time searching for the Brown Bread Cafe. We met the Aussies outside and went up to the rooftop for some water and an egg sandwich! We headed back to the guesthouse to meet our walking guide. We lay in front for the air conditioning unit for a while then headed back out to the Gange river to see the evening ceremony. The city was now beyond crazy, with everyone heading down to the Gange. We went down and met the young guy who was taking us up and down the river on his rowing boat. The maharajah was in town tonight so brightly coloured fountains lit up the river. We went downstream a little to see some of the evening cremations. We then headed back upstream to see the ceremony. Thousands and thousands of people had descended on the Gange river and thousands more in boats to watch. We stayed on the river for around an hour before heading back to dry land and some more paneer at a local restaurant.
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