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Our second driving day began with an enjoyable breakfast spread at our lodge in Oudtshoorn. After all the driving we had done the day before we needed petrol. It was a new experience for us as drivers to have two people assist us with this process. They even cleaned all the bug carnage from yesterday so we could see the road again.
Heading North we drove to Cango Caves discovered by European settlers in the Eighteenth century. These incredible caves are over 5km long. These are the largest and most interesting caves that Gareth has ever been into. The first main room after 70 stairs was the biggest open area and from the 1960s concerts were held in this space until the 1990s when they were stopped due to continual vandalism. There was a seven metre high stalagmite that made Gemma look like a dwarf. Heading further in, the next large room was the most impressive due to the variety of cave features. There were also many columns where stalagmites had met stalactites. One of these had a diameter of our arm span. We continued deeper in until we were 600m and 400 steps in. The cave got smaller but still had incredibly interesting formations. It was distressing to see many places where tourists had snapped off sections as a souvenir. The tour leader was very entertaining and had many great stories to share.
Leaving the caves after paying the obligatory 10 Rand for our cars safe keeping we continued on to the Lonely Planet to pp pick of the Western Cape, the Swartberg Pass. We have sat for ten minutes trying to come up with words to describe this pass and have failed to find an expression worthy of its splendour. While our Ford was not the best choice of vehicle for the steep and rocky gradient accentuated by corrugations and pot holes, the view from 'Die Topp' was breathtaking. Continuing down the other side we had to duck and weave in the oncoming trraffic but were amazed by the sheer cliffs we were driving beside. To complete the loop back to Oudtshoorn we drove through another pass which had no elevation much to Gemma's ears delight. Instead it followed a creek with towering red stone natural walls on either side.
Continuing our journey South we drove through yet another pass toward George. We realised that we had been very spoilt by the earlier two when we weren't stopping to take photos like everyone else. We briefly stopped into Redberry Farm for afternoon tea and enjoyed fresh strawberry drinks and the worlds biggest scone.
By this time the day was disappearing so we got on a Motorway and headed toward Kynsna.
Somewhat on a 120km/h motorway we arrived at a roundabout much to the surprise of Gareth. So far during our holiday we have enjoyed good accommodation, the same could not be said about our wooden log cabin, fully lined with pine cladding from the 1970s. To add insult to injury the internet wasn't working due to today being a public holiday in Africa. Dinner tonight was enjoyed by the harbour at a beacon of light Italian restaurant surrounded by seafood restaurants. You can always trust the Italians for vegetarian options.
Given the lack of internet, we decided to continue this blog. After a forgettable breakfast our aim for today was the suspension bridge over the Storm River mouth. On our way there we visited the heads of Knysna where Gemma enjoyed a fabulous coffee with an amazing view. We are now getting used to always having a helpful parking assistant who 'minds the car' for the cheap price of $50c-$1.00. Our mission while shopping is now to get change to cover this unexpected added security measure.
Setting the Navman it had the Storm River bridge as being 4 hours away which was quite a surprise and somewhat demoralising after the massive driving day of yesterday. Deciding to ignore its advice we headed East in the general direction of the bridge and discovered a toll road that led us straight there within an hour. Gareth was extremely elated. We have also become proficient at using our hazard lights to thank trucks and other slow vehicles who move right over into the emergency lane to allow us past. It is quite a good system and Gareth thinks this should possibly be introduced into Australia.
The National Park had the worlds slowest entry system with a lengthy form to be completed signing away public liability obligations. We parked at the end of the road and began the walk toward to the suspension bridge. Due to our lack of research (no internet) we did not realise that this walking route involve 51 upward flights of stairs according to Gemma's pedometer. This effort was rewarded with three suspension bridges, the largest crossing the river mouth. The incoming waves from the ocean provided great interest as we walked over these bridges. After crossing all the bridges we gathered our energy for the return leg where we had lunch overlooking the inlet.
Calling it a day we returned to Knysna via Plettenberg Bay with the hopes of seeing whales. We had no luck. For our final night on the Garden Route, we researched and found a fantastic restaurant called 'The Olive Tree'. The menu was on a rolling blackboard that was updated daily according to seasonal produce. The host explained each dish with great flourish, it was so obvious that she was passionate about food. Each dish was balanced perfectly and the restaurant was definitely worthy of its number three rating on Trip Advisor. Once we finish writing and uploading this blog we have the joy of packing for our flight tomorrow to Joberg on our way to Kruger National Park. Gemma is most looking forward to seeing a giraffe drinking, she has been told it's very amusing.
- comments
Althea Halliday I am in Melbourne traffic wobbling as I write. What a wonderful blog you have composed on your caving adventure and your journey over spectacular passes. How interesting that words were insufficient to describe such beauty. I very much understand that. And how rewarding to find restaurants of such quality! We have had a marvellous weekend immersed - as expected - in conversation and creativity. So much has been accomplished. More details tonight. Love Mum x
Beverly Langsford Willing Great reading about your new adventure! Sounds amazing. Will check it again during the week. Enjoy and stay safe. It was terrific to have Althea and Harry here for Sunday night. Lots of laughs and stories as usual. Love, Bev