Up with the dawn we were collected and ferried out of the town to our chosen elephant camp, after the not so nice treatment we witnessed in Nepal we planned for a more positive experience and were assured that this camp was ethical. We arrived to the sight of 3 elephants with benches strapped to their backs and were shuffled unceremoniously on. Our hearts sank a little but the trek was weaponless and easy on the elephants, only gentle words of persuasion were used to move them on and they were given time to play and forage.

We had signed up for Mahout (elephant trainer/rider) training, Pai Pai go, how how stop, quai quai right, Sai Sai left and Bon Bon lift trunk and spray tourists with water! We had the lingo and now it was our turn, sat on the necks of these huge pachyderms skin on skin we took them to the river for a swim. The rest of the evening was spent bathing, feeding, and ogling the elephants, it was exactly what we wanted and we had the run of the place, just the two of us 3 elephants, a guide and a handful of mahouts.

We jumped at the chance when offered to do a bit of fishing Laos style, we clambered into a small rowing boat and headed down the river with some fishing nets, one oar and one long bamboo pole. The nets were positioned along the river bank before the fishermen started smacking the water with sticks and rocks to funnel the fish into the nets, our catch was a dozen or so small Tilapia that were to be fried up for dinner. Just before sun down we took the elephants to their sleeping quarters in the surrounding bamboo forests. Safely tucked into bed we retreated to the camp for a river sunset and an evening meal. We sat with the family as our dinner was prepared and the experience felt more like a home stay than a hotel. We drank beers and watched Thai movies before devouring a delicious home cooked meal, stir fried vegetables, chicken, sticky rice and some fresher than fresh tilapia on the side.