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Cuzco is a beautiful city deep in the Peruvian Andes, a historic city once the centre of the Inca world it is now backpacker central. We arrived tweezerless in time for some dinner. I ate alpaca. I can now verify that not only do alpacas make exceedingly warm jumpers they are incredibly tasty. Alpaca wouldn't be the weirdest thing I ate that day.
The rest of the day was filled with sightseeing and resting, aware that the trek was looming large on the horizon. Evening came, and along with it the weirdest thing I've ever put in my mouth, which is saying something. If I ever have kids and they want to bring home the class guinea pig to look after for the holidays they had better watch out as I may skin it, roast it and eat it. Guinea pig looks a little like the roasted ducks in china town, and tastes like guinea pig. Even my usually squeamish wife tried some, see pictures. The best part of it was of course the pictures we took pretending it was speaking, again see pictures. It's not something i will be eating again.
The following day we met our guide for the week, Julio. A clever and passionate guide whose enthusiasm for all things inca made the following five days much more enjoyable than they could otherwise have been. We visited a llama farm, where we saw llamas and alpacas, the alpacas looked tasty. We saw traditional weaving of the llama fur and went to a shop where we could purchase their wares, we didn't, they were too expensive.
After that we got soaked in the sacred valley and saw loads of incredible sights. I loved the history and grandeur of it all. In the afternoon we went to a corn beer producer's farm. After I had bought Stick, the evening was spent in a local shop drinking beer with some locals, neither of whom spoke Spanish, only the local language, very bizarre.
Things I have learnt on the inca trail
If you get ill it can be a miserable place.
It is more enjoyable than anything else.
The porters are legends.
Best not to attempt it after a lazy Christmas.
The toilets are terrible, glastonbury terrible.
Fit Australians are pretty fit.
We set off early the next day, in the rain and mist. There were five of us, me, Lisa, Erin, Peter and Elyce. The first day was pretty easy, a small 11k hike, fairly flat. Pretty easy, or so you would think. The Aussies decided that walking would be too easy, and that running would be more fun. For the rest of the trek we would only ever see them at rest stops and camp. The three of them were incredibly fit, Lisa and I weren't.
I got a bug, I was ill, it was miserable, I hardly ate on the trek. The toilets were terrible. I can now go pretty much anywhere.
The trek is awesome, the views are constantly breathtaking and the inca sites are extraordinary feats of genius. That said the first bit of day two was tough. We ascended 1400 meters straight up, from 2700 metres to 4125, see pictures. The ascent was all up stairs. We made it, everyone made it, the Aussies made it much before us two, but we were by no means the last. The altitude was having a massive effect on many people. We were passing people being sick, they must have been regretting every step. After that down the other side of the hill to camp and then another three course meal.
Massive cliche alert; the porters are incredible. The five of us were catered for by a guide, six porters and a chef. The porters cooked, cleaned, set up camp, took down camp, carried our things, woke us up with room service, and also had to do the inca trail. We were allowed a five kilo bag each, which a porter carried. Five kilos at the start, more like eight at the end as our day packs got lighter. I felt bad, the lonely planet went in, the phrase book, spare clothes, I ended up only carrying sun cream in my day pack. I felt even guiltier when I was introduced to the 57 year old porter who had carried my increasingly heavy load. These guys do what we do with 25 kilo loads, then set up camp and do all the other stuff, amazing. There were two three course meals a day, which the others assured me were great, they made sure Lisa had no cheese or milk, and made Elyce a vegetarian meal everyday too. Awesome effort, and as they ran past us up the stairs on day two I felt a little bit fraudulent.
Day three was great, the walk easier, the scenery beautiful and a day to soak in the history and the views, no need to rush no need to do anything but walk and enjoy. We got to camp, had a well earned beer, ate and slept ready for our 3.30 wake up call. However, due to a landslide earlier that day there was no running water and the toilets were terrible and no chance for the shower we had been dreaming of for the last 3 days.
Day four was what made it all worthwhile. We got up early, queued for an hour and then walked to Machu Pichu. It was incredible. When you come over the final hill at Sungate and see Machu Pichu before you in all its glory the pain and misery of the previous few days disappears and you just wallow in all its incredibleness. Pictures we've took and pictures you've seen can never do its majesty enough justice. Go see it, take the train if you have to, it is spectacular. As we walked the last kilometre towards it I am sure there were many with a tear in their eye.
The five of us left, got on the weirdest train of all time and headed from inca civilisation to 21st century civilisation. The train journey included an aeroplane like meal, a traditional dance and a fashion show. See pictures. Back in cusco a warm shower, a beer and a curry were all that was needed to end a wonderful four days.
Then we were off to Santiago, Chile, via Lima for our next adventure.
- comments
Tendai Wow, Martyn & Lisa - it sounds awesome.
ross theres a lot of beer mentioned....do something, have a beer, walk a bit, have a few more beers, see a sight, have a beer, eat a guinea pig, have a beer...etc etc not that im jealous or anything
Pat and Tony Barker Hiya Lisa and Martyn, it all sounds awesome but fun. You 2 know how to enjoy life. It is great to follow your adventure, step by step. Photos make it come alive. Looking forward to the next episode. Hope the bug gone now Martyn, knew I should have sent you some probiotics! Keep smiling Love Pat and Tony x x