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25/12/2013
Christmas day!!! Got up, went to the toilet another half dozen times then left for the station. Dehli is probably the only station in India where there is a digital display which actually tells you which train departs from which platform, so I found it nice and easy. Seen some crazy things on the train this time, people singing, general beggers, trannies who simply clap their hands for money, and even a circus act with a young girl younger than 10, and a boy who was no older that 6 who had a moustache painted on his face. They would so kartwheels in the isles, and hold each others legs and do rolly pollys, tricks with a hoop, the lot. Very bizarre. Also past some of the worst scenes of poverty I have every seen in my life, and it was truly harrowing. I honestly couldn't believe what my eyes were seeing sometimes. India is slowly but surely turning its self into a landfill sight, and I passed just whole towns of rubbish and shanty towns. There were dozens of peoples in the fields squatting down, as obviously most won't have actually toilets or a sanitation system. Kite flying is also very popular in North India for the kids to play, and also seen kids holding kites directly beneath the railway track.
I was also entering the Punjab District of India, which is the main Sikh stronghold of India in the North. Seen some of the maddest turbans known to man, all different shapes, sizes and colours. Some were gigantic balls of material perched on tiny withering old Indian men in crazy costumes. Made my way to the Golden Temple and looked for the free accommodation place. Found it, and when you walk in you are hit by a smell of sweat. The room and its sheets obviously hadn't been washed in however many years. It was a big room full of beds side by side, with smaller roms with three beds in each coming off from the main room. There wasn't that many people about but there were plenty of bags on the beds. Slowly but surely lots of different nationalities came in, a Peruvian, an Argentinean and an Israeli.
Dumped my stuff and went to explore the temple. Was really excited, as this along with the Tiger's Nest Monestary, Bhutan, were the two defining images that made me say 'I'm going there! I'm taking a gap year!!' Got a bandana from the big pot provided to cover my hair and put my shoes and socks in a little locker thing. Walked through a little pool of water and across the white marble into the grounds. I wasn't feeling even 20% but I smiled to myself as I descended the steps. The sun was setting and I had waited for this moment for this moment for so long. There was a time when I had sat in the library at silly oclock and research all these places, and they were nothing more than illuminated pixels on a screen, but slowly but surely I was making them real and putting them all together. Couldn't believe and I was finally here, and this was certainly didn't disappoint. A beautiful golden temple surrounded by a tranquil pool of water. A white marble walkway and building surrounded it. Got some amazing pictures but didn't venture inside the temple just yet as I wanted to save some for tomorrow.
Went back to the room where I met theeeeee craziest lady I have, and will ever, meet in my life. By far. I originally thought she was English, but was actually Australia. Turns out her dad was a scouser. She was wearing a sari and had her head covered. She said her name was Sharmaine, but introduced herself as Chataki, the name her Guru she'd had for 20 years (who had recently 'expired') had given her. In an overfriendly manner she started to ask me lots of questions of why India etc. and asked what star sign I was. She explained that she just wants to serve God by helping others and was a real mother Teresa type person… who loved to talk. Couldn't get a word in edge ways at the best of times. She talked about the 'cosmic energy' and this that and the other, and even of how her children had disserted her as she had caught TB and some type of rash, and that they think the whole the going to India thing is too much etc. I could see where they was coming from!
Later on more people came, this time there was a German dude who had one giant dreadlock pony tail run down his back, like a rats tail. Also out of nowhere a tall pale gingerish guy burst in, was wearing a big brown puffer jacket, same colour keeper style hat, jeans and Aladdin style shoes. Explained he'd just got back from the border ceremony and had started to shout support for Pakistan, to which he reinacted and screamed at the top of his voice 'f*** you India!!', then explained he got beaten up by the guards. He then shouted 'Bangla bangla' and done some Indian style dance before disappearing out the door. The whole room just looked at each other and laughed. No need to ask where he was from then.
Went to get some food from the free kitchen for Christmas dinner later with Zul, a 26 year old Singaporean. Was such an amazing experience, one I'll never forget. Was such a good way to have Christmas dinner. We again took our shoes off and covered our hair. Got a plate and spoon and walked to the giant dinning hall. There was many thin carpets which stretched the length of the room on the floor in rows which everyone was sitting on. We sat down and waited for the many guys who walk round continuously with buckets of food to fill up our plates. We got Dhal, which is a lentil based dish, a more potato and veg dish, some white rice and chapattis, which are tradition Indian flat breads. All of which was unlimited. There are also little carts that they push about which dispense water. Chatted on about raveling with Zul.
Afterwards we walked back downstairs and all the volunteers collected our plates, behind their was the giant washing area where all the plates would be cleaned ready to be used again, and the peeling area, a massive floor of people all working away. There too was Sharmaine cutting some vegetables and chatting endlessly to some helpless local woman, who I felt so sorry for.
We ventured back inside the temple grounds and got some good night pics of the temple. This time we went in and its interior was just as good as its exterior. We had to queue to get in, but once there found an amazing illuminated room which a giant chandelier. There was some people playing amazing live music in the middle and a geezer singing. We walked the higher two levels before coming back down and going to spend half the time back in the room, and the other half on the toilet.
26/12/2013
Had a really long lie in and my stomach felt better. Later on got a shared taxi to the border which was 35km with Jonas, the German with the ponytail, and Nicholas, a French-Swiss guy and some locals. Passed a really nice building called the Khalsa college. One of the Indians patted me on the shoulder from behind, and declared, "We have the ancestors of this man to thank". We arrived to blasting music and massive stands all full of people. Being a tourist we got the VIP treatment and got the good seats. It was a real celebration and their were people dancing in the road between the stand. At the end there was the Indian gate, and just next to it the Pakistan Gate. Over the fence was the Pakistan stand all full of their people, all waving their flags and blasting their tunes to try and outdo us. Was so mad to think there's the border with Pakistan, and there's the people of Pakistan just casually facing us in some type of stand off!!! There was so much excitement in the air and the ceremony started. It was the closest thing I've came to a footy match style atmosphere whilst being here. The guards where funny hats and weird trousers, and walk dead dramatically, and done plenty of stomping of the feet, quick sudden turns and insane high kicks about their heads. Slowly but surely the gates opened and flags were pulled down and crossed each other. All the locals were starting chants, and their was even an MC who stormed around to G us up. They kept chanting Hindu-stan, I think. Stan or istan means lad.
Later on got taxi back and Jonas explain when he was in Nepal the infrastructure of transport was poor in some parts, so there was a time when he spent around 6 hours on the top of a bus with 20 other people.
Later on got food with the pair. Again was an amazing experience. This time we got milk rice as well, a kind of sweet dissert. There was a message which read 'to serve humanity is to serve God'. This was definitely fitting. Also discovered there was a two gigantic chai dispensers for free. We grabbed a bowl and had a big bowl of chai, which we supped from. Later a Russian family who I met in the New Dehli hotel arrived. Such a small small world!!
There was also a big commission on the night as apparently both Sharmaine and this sweet American lady had been hugged by one of the guards to which they were fuming about. Everyone in the dorm was getting really involved and really going to the hills about it. Wasn't too sure if they were just over reacting, but saying that you can never talk these things too lightly. Sharmaine is a real fiery character and was leading the protest, shouting on Guru blah blah blah. The crazy yank was also chipping in.
27/12/2013
Said bye to Nicholas in the morning. Me and Jonas chilled. Told me wants to get the Trans-Mongolian train back home and wants to climb mount Kinabulu in Malayasia. Was odd as this is exactly what I want to do too. Got his email address and some funny photos of me holding his dreadlock as a moustache. Said bye.
Later told Sharmaine I was ill. Then BOOM!!! Enter mother Teresa in her absolute element!!!! Overload on the helpfulness front. Next thing you know she had brought me antibiotics, electrolytes, a bottle of water and chocolate. Again the medicine was Nortz, which I had also seen in Dehli, and originally what I got in Mumbai, so this was obviously the hand out drug of illness. But I was less inclined to take it and refused. Sharmaine wanted to be really helped and insisted I take it. But I stood my ground and refused. It all started getting a bit much, and the generosity was ridiculous, later on she disappeared and arrived with a bag. I opened it up and found a wooly hat, a pair of gloves and a woven handkerchief. Honestly couldn't believe my eyes. Thanked her so much and gave her a massive hug. She tucked me into bed and made my electrolyte drink. Then later on she disappeared again. This time returning with another bag!!! I opened it up to find two scarves!!!!! One a gorgeous soft green thing, nice and trendy, and the other a more thicker one. Felt like Christmas day. She also had brought me a big bag of bananas! She honestly wasn't lying when she said about serving humanity. Early she got Jonas' email address, who hadn't even spoke to that much, and of course wanted mine, so I gave it to her.
Later on met an Italian called Lawrence and his German girlfriend, forget her name. They had been traveling Asia for 10 months and it was good to ask them lots of questions. We went to the kitchen together later. On my return Sharmaine had another random gift for me, this time a pack of nuts. I packed my bags and walked to the train station.
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