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Sorry it's taken a while for this installment! We have struggled on how to put a months relaxation and enjoyment into words and finding the time to type it out in between eating, swimming and sunbathing is a nightmare! So here are the basics hope you enjoy!
Goa - Part 1
Our first port of call was Margao Railway Police to report the theft of Dan's wallet. They were really great and rushed through the necessary paperwork immediately instead of having to wait 3 days after a bit of gentle persuasion and a few hundred rupees gratuity.
They explained that theft on the train is a common occurrence and it is usually the staff who do the stealing. They work long hours for a low wage so they top up their income with opportunistic thefts. They then have the cheek to come around with their hands held out for a tip. We had a tip for them "Be less rude and more helpful and don't rob people!
We had a car waiting to take us to our accommodation and we loaded our luggage and piled in. The driver was 'as mad as a box of frogs' and chatted and made jokes constantly as we all laughed along nervously, sucking in breath every few minutes as he raced on weaving in and out not concentrating on the road and narrowly avoiding oncoming traffic at speed. There are no rules to driving in India as we have said but it seems to be worse outside the big cities as there is less congestion. There is no highway code, no white lines in fact in a lot of places there isn't a proper road, it really is just the biggest car with the loudest horn that has right of way.
After holding on with all our might (giving white knuckle ride true meaning) for an hour and half winding through busy towns and quiet villages and over two long bridges that connect the mainland with the headland. We concluded by making our way through a small village back alley and onto a narrow lane and we screeched to a hault outside our home for the next ???? Mary's Residential.
Anthony the owner and host at Mary's is one of the nicest, friendliest most humble men you are likely to meet. He has smiley eyes and a great aura and will do anything he can to help make your stay comfortable and pleasurable. He offered us a lot of guidance and provided much needed information and an invaluble insight into Goan culture that helped us integrate easily into the slow paced way of life.
Mary's residential is a large white four storey villa style building. The locals call them bungalows (maybe on account that the family live on one level that covers the whole ground floor) but the building itself is far from what we know a bungalow to be.
The remaining three storeys are split into 7 rooms all large doubles joined together by a stunning spiralling Italian white marble staircase thats compliments the Art Deco features and huge stained glass windows perfectly, all designed by Anthony himself.
We chose Lucky number 7 right on the top floor.
The door opens onto a very large room with white marble floor echoing the staircase and a pale aqua/blue on the walls. There is a double bed (well 2 singles pushed together) with cabinets, wardrobe, dressing table and writing desk all mirroring the Art Deco features of the hallway. Tucked away in the corner is a fridge, kettle and TV (with a great range of channels incl espn and movies). A ceiling fan and air con unit complete the neccesary mod cons. The bathroom is behind a door edged in jade green marble, its compact but has everything needed including a steaming hot shower. Happy Days!
We pulled the curtains back to reveal two large windows that let the light flood in but fully fitted with netting designed to keep the mosquito's out. Finally the piece de resistance a pair of bi-fold patio doors that open fully onto a spacious tiled terrace with patio table and chairs encased with a backdrop of palms and blossom trees and our own little wildlife garden. It truly is a perfect home from home!
Needless to say we have taken full advantage of this terrace over the last few weeks. A natural sun trap backed up by an air con haven inside perfect for spending lazy days relaxing and topping up our tans.
As we mentioned the wildlife I think we have to expand.As you can imagine as amazing and varied and colourful as this was it is not the greatest experience for someone who has a great fear of things flying around them. Obviously you have the mosquito's, flys, hairy caterpillars and huge crickets (that fly through the air con and land on you in bed). Then we had an influx of Dragonfly's and were not exhagerating when we say thousands across the whole town (we imagined it like the swarm of locusts in the bible). At night the firefly's danced through the air they are hypnotising and one of the few flying things I can cope with. The Butterflies are the most exuberant. Countless varieties displaying kaleidoscopic colours and patterns ranging from tiny to the size of your hand. Then come the birds ... there are smaller varieties like sparrows and t*** and common garden birds, then you have the bright green and red parakeets playing in the palms with the magnificent Red Kites and Sea (fishing) Eagles circling and gliding above this is all amazing until it is spoiled by the CROWS!!! These are like the pigeons of Goa.They rule the place. They are everywhere scavanging , squaking and pecking with their tough beaks and staring you out with their beady eyes. Everything is bullied by the crows and most things are scared of them including me!!!
The best moment with regards to the wildlife so far has to be when there was a cockroach in the room.
Picture the scene Rod and Steph lying in bed, Rod is asleep, Steph is reading. Steph see's something wakes Rod and says
"Rod there is a huge cockroach on the curtains and I can't reach it"
Rod says
"Shall I just put this pillow over my head while you get it?"
Classic ....... Bless him!!!
CALANGUTE AND BAGA
After thinking we were in the middle of nowhere we realised a 200 yard walk brought us out onto Calangute-Baga road (The main road connecting the two places.) We were actually smack bang in the middle with half a mile each way to either place. Most people had scooters to get around but there was no way we would have one, mainly because the other people on them can't ride or are drunk. After we saw a few people fall off we decided it was definitely better to rely on our legs and so we walked everywhere.
Turning left took us into Calangute. When we first arrived it was completely out of season and still monsoon so most of the shops, restaurants and bars were closed. The buildings looked derelict and run down, they were boarded up with corogated iron and tarpaulin. The street stalls were open as always braving the rains and lack of tourists in the hope of making just a few rupees a day. There were a few locals places open "The Pub", "The Liquor shop" and a couple of shops selling basic groceries, a few locals restaurants were open one of these turned out to be a favourite of ours.
100% Pure Veg was set back from the main road by going down 3 steps. It had 3 long (canteen style) tables with plastic chairs one side and a long concrete strip to sit on the other. Aesthetics aside the food was amazing. Alloo Bhaji (Veg in spicy sauce) Gobi Alloo Mutter (Cauliflower and pea in spicy gravy) Basmati rice and Panner Paratha (cheese bread) cost just 3.50 incl drinks.Winner!
By the time the month was up the whole road into Calangute was open, lots of the derelict buildings had torn down the boarding and lifted the shutters opening as various shops. There were resorts that you hadn't even known were there, fine dining restaurants and fully stocked supermarkets. The street stalls had quadrupled in number each one trying to be bigger and better than the last but all with the same stock.There was even a dodgy looking nightclub called "The Fire Lounge" That looked like it should be set on fire before anyone got injured in there.
Another place that opened and became our Saturday hang out was the expat bar Eclipse. With free pool, great food and most importantly Live Premiership football which bought great entertainment cheering for Stoke in a bar full of Chelsea fans!
It was positively fascinating to watch the entire area transpose before our eyes. A building is renovated literally within 3 days. First day It goes from being boarded up and run down to stripped, cleaned and painted. Day 2 the floor is laid, the fittings are added and shelves and casings are fixed in. Day 3 fully fitted shop full of brightly coloured stock and an Indian trying to entice you in by speaking in a Mockney accent Amazing!!!
After making it to the end of this tarmaced assault course you come to a small roundabout that connects with the main road through Calangute. Turning left at the roundabout takes you to the busy fish market, full of pungent aromas of the days catch all laid out on the stone slabs alongside the fruit and veg awash with colour and texture piled high and all fresh and grown locally. The hustle and bustle continues along this stretch to the Hindu Temple and the small church where the locals go to worship. This is the side of town that gives a true reflection of local life.
Paratha (cheese bread) cost just 3.50 incl drinks.Winner!
By the time the month was up the whole road into Calangute was open, lots of the derelict buildings had torn down the boarding and lifted the shutters opening as various shops. There were resorts that you hadn't even known were there, fine dining restaurants and fully stocked supermarkets. The street stalls had quadrupled in number each one trying to be bigger and better than the last but all with the same stock.There was even a dodgy looking nightclub called "The Fire Lounge" That looked like it should be set on fire before anyone got injured in there.
Another place that opened and became our Saturday hang out was the expat bar Eclipse. With free pool, great food and most importantly Live Premiership football which bought great entertainment cheering for Stoke in a bar full of Chelsea fans!
It was positively fascinating to watch the entire area transpose before our eyes. A building is renovated literally within 3 days. First day It goes from being boarded up and run down to stripped, cleaned and painted. Day 2 the floor is laid, the fittings are added and shelves and casings are fixed in. Day 3 fully fitted shop full of brightly coloured stock and an Indian trying to entice you in by speaking in a Mockney accent Amazing!!!
After making it to the end of this tarmaced assault course you come to a small roundabout that connects with the main road through Calangute. Turning left at the roundabout takes you to the busy fish market, full of pungent aromas of the days catch all laid out on the stone slabs alongside the fruit and veg awash with colour and texture piled high and all fresh and grown locally. The hustle and bustle continues along this stretch to the Hindu Temple and the small church where the locals go to worship. This is the side of town that gives a true reflection of local life.
Turning right at the roundabout takes you into Indian Tourist mayhem!
There is a large arid patch of land that has a few different uses. It is the football field, cricket pitch, bus station and a bed for the herds of cows and stray dogs. Along the remaining road is same same with stalls, shops,restaurants,coffee houses,ice cream parlours, tattooists, supermarkets (well small shops selling basic essentials) all in a repetitive pattern leading down to the beach.
Just before the beach is an amazing place called Deli Chat! It is simply a counter with burners behind cooking up the tastiest indian snack food where you can get Pau Bahji (spicy mashed veg and baps) and Alloo Fry (Spicy Potatoes) for 56p.
Calangute has always been busy with many people milling around. It is reminiscent of Blackpool in a heatwave. This is mainly due to the Indian Tourists that come in for day trips from the inland towns and weekenders from Mumbai and surrounding areas. They park their coaches on the football field, head straight to the liquor shop to get cans or Whisky, like herds of sheep they head to the nearest stall to get I heart Goa T-shirts then its onto the beach to get drunk, swim in the sea, Perv at the bikini-clad girls and generally harrass western tourists for photographs. We have litererally had our photo taken hundreds of times, we will be on every indian facebook going, it is hilarious but can get really annoying especially if they are very drunk or if they don't ask and try and get a photo craftily but they are not good at being inconspicuous.
The road to Baga is a much of a muchness except on a smaller scale. The main road is Tito's road where the bars and nightlife slowly sprung up over the month. Mambo's and Tito's are too expensive for the traveller budget but along with the high end shops are perfect for the MTV generation of middle-class Indian youngsters. We found a great internet cafe where we hung out with the locals and listened to some top tunes while having a laugh, the internet cafe was the cheapest and most happening place until a week before we left and we made some good friends. The internet connection was tempremental to say the least but the atmosphere more than made up for it.
The best thing for us about Tito's road is a little locals restaurant called Baptiso's which is tucked away off the beaten track down a side alley.It has a sand/dirt floor, mismatched tables and chairs and the open kitchen is a couple of gas burners, a hotplate and a clay oven all on display at the side nearest the entrance. They do the most delicious Butter Chicken, onion veg fried rice, and Garlic cheese naan that just melts in your mouth (I am literally salivating thinking about it while i'm typing) it was heaven on a plate and it fed us both with drinks for 4.20 Get In!!
The far end of the road is a lot of resorts set back and the bars and restaurants reflect this market of clientelle. It was strange we just had a bad feeling walking down this stretch, nothing ever happened and we still can't explain why after all this time but something just didn't feel right. The road comes to an end alongside Baga beach where the sea joins the river and the fishing boats come in with the daily catch.
The square footage in between these roads and the beach are Labyrinths of local villagers homes, shops and businesses. Some have a solid 2-3 room bungalow which often houses at least 5 people, others have a 10ft by 10ft concrete square which is bathroom, kitchen, bedroom and living space in one often with a corrugated roof in need of repair. Others just have a tent like structure made from bamboo, coconut palm leaves and tarpauline. Its eyeopening to see how resourceful someone can be when they have nothing and its a matter of survival. They had so much in other ways, true community spirit, love, faith, tight family bonds and always a great big smile and a warm greeting of welcome for us. Nothing is taken for granted, they are happy and thankful for what they have got. Don't get me wrong i'm sure like everyone they have a good moan and nag but we didn't get to see that.
BEACH LIFE
A massive part of life in Calangute-Baga is beach life.
There is a long stretch of golden sandy beach all the way from Baga to Candolim. Calangute beach is very crowded with the aforementioned Indian day trippers and other well off Indian families enjoying a vacation together. They seem to congregate in one compact area all standing chatting, paddling and swimming together fully clothed as their culture dictates.
The stretch heading from Calangute - Baga (there is no actual divide between the two and you cannot tell where one ends and the other begins) is a lot cleaner and quieter and our prefferred spot, with just a few small groups wandering back and forth.
Baga beach is usually packed with holidaymakers and the sunbeds, umbrellas and beach shacks reflect the vibe. The beach life here is centered around Britto's restaurant and bar which is frequented by a younger higher caste of tourists and seems to draw travellers and backpackers alike. The atmosphere is great! It's on the beach front with a rustic interior of terracotta walls, Bamboo furniture and funky lighting made from fishing baskets it's the place to be seen. The food was fabulous here although a little more expensive because of the location. We enjoyed the of Tandori chicken half, chips and salad for 2.77 and the tastiest hot (Not hot like cremate your taste buds, hot like spicy and flavoursome and mouthwateringly good) King Prawn (10 in all) vindaloo with rice and chapati for 3.80. After dark the ambience is set with candles flickering on each table a chill out soundtrack and the echo of the waves crashing onto the shore makes for a perfect romantic evening.
Britto's is a great place to watch the sun go down and the world go by if you can see over the rows of hawkers that line up trying to catch your eye to sell you anything and everything. (But only in the daylight hours.)
HAWKERS
You cannot talk about the beach without mentioning the hawkers as they are a major part of beach life.
The first time we stepped onto Baga beach we were surrounded by a group of young girls between 7 and 11 yrs all selling jewellery. They have poor quality necklaces and bracelets all looped on them. They are amazing sales people Alan Sugar would hire them all. They get your attention with compliments
"Ooh I love your dress" or "Nice Indian bangles"
Then its:
"Where you from? - England?" "Ahh Chelsea" (Everyone is a chelsea fan)
As you tell them you don't want anything and haven't got any money its
"Just have a look, look for free, costs nothing!"
"Have now, Pay tomorrow, No problem"
As you carry on walking they remain firmly by your side stroking your skin and trying to hold your hand so they can quickly attach a bracelet to your wrist in the hope that once its on you'll buy it. When they realise they are getting nowhere they ask your name, then introduce themselves and make you repeat their name a few times saying
"You remember me. You promise, tomorrow you buy. Don't break my little heart!"
Then they are off in search of their next victim. You have to laugh and admire them.
There are really young children about 5 - 6yrs that are used to entertain for money. The adult sets up a small tightrope in front of the restaurant or crowd on the beach. The young girl walks the tightrope, then back again carrying a pot on her head, then across again with the pot on her head and a bowl on one foot and finally with the pot and hoop on her foot. The girl then dismounts and uses the hoop to contort herself through while the adult dismantles the tightrope in seconds. Finally the girl is sent around with a begging plate for money. We wouldn't give anything as talented as these kids were the more people give the longer they will be exploited. We saw people put food on her plate and as grateful as the child was you could see that she would be in trouble for not getting money.
The older ladies have homed their craft and perfected their patter but still repeat variations of the same script. Unlike the children the women have huge wire hoops they attach their jewellery to. The weight of this is unbelievable and often cuts deep into their hands as they carry it for hours. They sell Henna, manicure, pedicure, massage, shawls, bedspreads, sarongs, jewellery you name it they will provide it if the price is right. Again their persistence is admirable and their cheek is endearing especially when they give you a big toothy grin.
We sat and spoke to a few of the beach sellers over the month. They got to know us and knew we weren't going to buy so they would just rest with us and chat, but always trying to entice us to purchase something.
Most of the women had children and were working the beach to try and pay for them to go to school. Education is expensive in India, although times are changing. Some had daughters who already worked the beach as this was the only way of life they knew and the only income for the household. They all really struggled out of season and didn't make enough to survive so they had jobs cleaning and working in restaurant kitchens to make ends meet often working around the clock.
They rely on western tourists as the Indian tourists rarely buy from them. They were selling nice costume jewellery for 75p because it was low season, in high season this could be as much as 6 pounds. If we had been on a two week holiday I would of bought the lot.
A major set back to their profit is the Police. They tax each seller between 1.50 and 4.50 for being on the beach. This happens daily sometimes twice or three times. It is amusing to see them pack up and scatter as the Police come onto the beach so they can avoid paying their tax.
At first the constant mithering drives you nuts, but after a couple of days it becomes part of the charm and you accept it, have a laugh with them and respect and understand that its the way they make their living and support their families.
The Arabian sea is also obviously part of beach life but a dangerous, unpredictable part. The sparkling azure waters are so appealing and draw you in but the overwhelming swell and breakers come crashing in and knock you off your feet. The undercurrents are so strong they can pull you under and they reportedly claim lives every year. As long as you are careful and dont go out too far its an exhilarating fun experience and one we enjoyed day after day under the careful watch of the lifeguards.
Again as time elapsed and the season drew closer we saw the beach also change. The beach bars and shacks that had been abandoned were now opened up and touting for business. The watersports are another seasonal attraction and speedboats are taken out for parasailing, tubing and even banana boats. jet ski's are available for hire and the daily tours to the surrounding beaches and a bit of dolphin spotting begin.
DAILY LIFE
Goa drew us in, hypnotised and enchanted us into relaxation and we slipped easily into a slower pace of life. We got to know a lot of local people and they welcomed us into their community. We had a daily routine and structure, even stretching to doing the washing and food shop on a Saturday before we went and watched the match. We can fully understand why people move here for six months of the year.
GANESH
A great example of being welcomed into the community was being invited to celebrate Ganesh with our new friends.
Ganesha Chaturthi, the great Ganesha festival, also known as 'Vinayak Chaturthi' or 'Vinayaka Chavithi' is celebrated by Hindus around the world as the birthday of Lord Ganesha. Our friend amu likened it to the Hindu New Year.
Hindu's worship statues of Ganesh(elephant God) that are specially made for the festival in their homes for ten days, all this time we witnessed fireworks being let off constantly. This unnerved us a few times as rows of firecrackers erupted into the darkness often sounding like our home was being bombed. The whole town was in a state of elation during this time.
On the 11th day its party time. The whole community comes out to celebrate. The image is taken through the streets and we followed the procession as Ganesh after Ganesh intricately carved in vivid gaudy colours were loaded into a large van and onto an open backed lorry. All the while villagers surrounded chanting, singing, dancing and letting off more fireworks, it was such an intoxicating experience.
The trucks and crowds reached the beach at Baga and a conveyer belt of bodies was formed. Each Ganesh idol was carefully unloaded and passed along the line until it was in the hands of its family of owners who carried it onto the beach with pride.
The statues were carefully laid out in a row and each one was adorned with garlands of flowers, coconut and canpher. Insense and sparklers were lit all as a final offering. The dancing and singing began again with everyone chanting "Ganapathi Bappa Morya, Purchya Varshi Laukariya" (O father Ganesha, come again early next year) over and over to the beat of a drum and various other homemade instruments.
The atmosphere was electric all through the prayers the beach was lit up by fireworks. All the children had firecrackers and air bombs that were just thrown into the sky to explode. No health and safety here and the freedom was astounding as the kids ran around and threw fireworks at eachother as the adults threw them across the beach watching them whizz off in random directions, often into the crowd where we had to run and jump over them before they sent sparks flying. Dangerous and shocking but all part of the fun and we loved it.
Once the prayers and final offerings were finished the statues were taken and immersed gently into the sea symbolizing a ritual see-off of the Lord in his journey towards his abode in Kailash while taking away with him the misfortunes of all man. After watching the tide engulf him and lead him on his journey all that was left to do was take fresh spiritual resolves and pray to Lord Ganesha for inner spiritual strength to attain success in all our undertakings.
We finished the evening in style continuing the party vibe at St Anthony's beach bar with Amu, Paul and a few others, a Strawberry Hookah and Karaoke (Don't worry I spared them my tone deaf catawalling!) before heading to Baptiso's for Butter Chicken. A perfect end to a perfect evening!!!
May the blessings of Sri Ganesha be upon you all! May He remove all the obstacles that stand in your spiritual path! May He bestow on you all material prosperity as well as liberation!
xxx
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