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MYSORE
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We braved the circus that is Bangalore City train station having already confirmed the details of platforms and seats, climbed the countless stairs up and down and settled onto the heaving platform with a cup of chai waiting for our train.
We had booked seats in non AC sitting rather than an AC sleeper as it was a short journey, a new experience and a whole lot cheaper. We boarded the train and as usual had to fight our way on, it is ridiculous the maelstrom that getting on a train causes. Waiting your turn, patience and a queue system is unheard of in India. The seats were set out in booths with two seats facing each other, each sitting three passengers. Unlike the sleeper class the windows are open some fronted with bars some not. We were seated in the same booth but at opposite ends, Rod by the window so at least he could get some good photo's. The three hour journey was extremely pleasurable even though we were crammed in. We were with two Indian families one were Grandparents taking their Granddaughter on her holidays. The lady had been a teacher for some years and spoke very good English and shared her knowledge of Indian history and religion openly with us and in great detail which was fantastic. Her husband delighted in showing us his holiday snaps from the previous year in Varanasi as we told him it was a place we were headed and he raved about his children and Grandchildren of which he was immensely proud. They were lovely and invited us to stay at their house so they could look after us and cook us some traditional homemade food. This would of been perfect except for the fact they live in Hyderabad and we have to miss it out unfortunately due to time restrictions, but we have promised when we return to India we will look them up. The other family didn't speak much English but had lots of questions for us which were asked through the interpretation of the teacher it was a fantastic experience and they also asked us to have a meal at their house but again we were out of time to take them up on their as they lived in Bangalore but were still in Mysore when we returned for our connecting flight. The only hiccup was the little girl opposite who threw up everywhere apparently due to travel sickness but certainly not because of all the crisps, sweets, pop and rubbish that had been stuffed into her at regular intervals to keep her quiet. It was all dealt with by putting sheets of newspaper over the sick as if you couldn't see it, it wasn't there and she was soon fast asleep and it was forgotten.
Before we knew it we were pulling up in Mysore station and preparing ourselves for the customary routine that alighting a train involves.
We were pleasantly surprised as the train had emptied somewhat at other stations making it easier for us to hang back and take our time getting loaded up with packs. When we left the train we weren't surrounded by touts or being mithered we were able to make our way off the platform and to the exit in relative calm after maneuvering a couple of flights of steps. We liked this place already.
At the exit there were a few men shouting for business and asking the usual questions but we ignored their advances and headed to the pre paid taxi queue.
Now we have a confession to make, because we were feeling really poorly and flu like and all citied out, we decided to treat ourselves for the two nights in Mysore and get a bit of much needed luxury. We had booked a 3 star hotel "The Fern Residency" online just out of the city that promised relaxation and HOT water.
We waited our turn and finally got a rickshaw ticket for a fair price. When the rickshaw pulled up a lovely smiley old man got out and asked us where we were going, we showed him our ticket and he went nuts. Just shows how looks can be deceiving. He started to demand more money to take us as it was out of the city and not his usual easy run and he wouldn't have a fare to bring back. We refused to give him more so he snatched our ticket and went to argue with the guy who had supplied it in the first place, he had no joy there either and was told that it was the correct fee. Then he started saying we had to pay for the luggage as well as our packs were too big, he was really nasty and making a big scene, so much so that the police came and demanded he take us. We got in and started off and he was still having a go at us so Rod "My Hero" shouted at him and told him he gave India a bad name, he understood this very well and it immediately shut him up. We spent the rest of the journey in silence until he had to ask for directions, he was nice as pie in asking us for our hotel details and got us there and tried to help us unload. We refused this offer and paid him the fare, we explained he would of got a big tip if he hadn't created a scene and he tried to explain his reasoning and off he went with his tail between his legs.
Entering "The Fern Residency" was daunting, we half expected them to take one look at us and ask us to leave. The foyer was like a global business entrance hall with ultra modern fitments and world wide clocks. It was sparkling clean and appealing and the staff were friendly and professional and trained in how to deal with customers, Oh how the other half live!
We were shown to our room and our bags were carried up for us. Our room was phenomenal! Clean walls and paintwork, a huge double bed with an actual soft mattress and a duvet and two pillows each, a dressing table, wardrobe, full length mirror and a flat screen TV on the wall, we could hardly contain our excitement. The bathroom was stunning, with all modern fitments a gleaming shower enclosure and HOT water!!!! We were in heaven!!!
The first thing we did was get in the shower, it was unbelievable and we were in their an hour each. We didn't want to get out it was the first time we had felt properly clean since we left the luxury of the hotel in Mumbai. Don't get me wrong we shower every day but cold water or dirty bathrooms don't cut it. We felt like at least ten layers of dirt had been removed and we were suddenly back to the colour we were when we left home. So we hadn't got a tan after all we were just dirty !
Being in comfort made us feel so much happier and being poorly more bearable and we didn't want to leave the room. We decided to order room service (much to my excitement) so we had Crispy Veg Pakora (veg coated in light batter and deep fried) with onion Raitha (onion in curd) followed by Aloo Gobi Adraki and Subzi Biryiani mopped up with Garlic Naan. It was incredibly tasty made more so by the lush surroundings. We sunk into the mattress, snuggled up together (something else we had not been able to do since Mumbai) and switched on the TV. Life couldn't get much better Stoke were on ESPN followed by Man Utd!!! We had been blessed!!! We deserved this or so we kept telling ourselves as we settled down for the best nights sleep in months.
The next day we were still reluctant to leave the room but decided that as we only had one day we had to make the most of it and at least take in some of the sights. Armed with the lonely Planet and a local guide map we headed to the main road to catch a bus into town. As we got to the bus stop an autorickshaw pulled up and asked us where we wanted to go, he said he would take us into town for a bargain price as he had just dropped off and had no return fare. It was cheaper than the bus fare so we agreed and got in.
Driving through town was a far cry from the big cities. It was clean and tree lined and although there was traffic it seemed calmer and the drivers had a level of respect for each other instead of trying to run every other vehicle off the road. The driver got us talking and asked us where we were headed, we explained we wanted to do a whirlwind tour and fit in as many of the sights as possible, he then came up with a "one day only" special offer tailor made to suit our needs at the bargain price of 20 pounds. After some discussion we agreed on a tenner and a visit to a couple of shops (where if we bought anything, which we had no intention of doing, he would get commission) all parties satisfied we headed off in the direction of Chamundi Hill.
Climbing up Chamundi Hill gives you a panoramic view over the whole of Mysore and some surrounding areas. It is beautiful.
1062m up on the summit is the Sri Chamundeswari Temple which is dominated by a 40ft Gopuram (entrance gateway) adorned with carvings in the typical Dravidian style. It is immense.The temple is dedicated to Chamundeshwari, the consort of Lord Shiva. There is an awesome colourful life size figure of the demon Mahishasura who the goddess is said to have vanquished greeting visitors at the entrance. The temple has history dating back 1,000 years after starting off as small it increased in size when the Mysore Maharaja's, "The Wodeyars" came to power in 1399 AD.
We were unable to enter the temple but enjoyed observing the flow of colour and routine of worshippers paying their respects and gathering together to have a chat or browse the stalls of fruit and veg, children's toys and jewellery and tourist items that had been laid out in front of the temple. We walked through a small village that had formed around the rear of the temple at the top of the hill and watched the older children playing a game of cricket as the younger children happily played in the dirt laughing at the family dogs having a play fight of their own. The women were doing their washing and hanging it out on the dusty lane to dry, while the men gathered around the small "liquor" shop neatly disguised as a tea house all completely unperturbed by the hundreds of people gathered nearby.
We also watched as a queue formed outside another building a few feet away from the temple.This was a canteen to feed Worshipers who would not get a meal without it and was run completely by volunteers on charitable donations.
We got back in the rickshaw and headed further back down the hill to the Statue of Nandi (Shiva's Bull) we were more excited about this than the temple. There carved in granite standing over 15ft high and 24ft long with exquisite rows of bells hanging around his neck he stood proud. We had come on a day when Nandi was being worshiped and were invited to join in the festivities. We watched as a band played and flowers, sweets, and water were thrown at the statue while chants were performed and children dressed in traditional wear danced around and then demanded money for a photograph. It was an honour to be a part of and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
We made our way back through the city taking in the charming buildings all with an air of regal grandeur dating back to the 1800's until we arrived at the absolutely stunning "St Philomena's Cathedral" a monumental example of Neo-Gothic style emphasized by the resplendent stain glass windows and imposing wooden doors.
It was here we were invited to a wedding. It was glorious. We watched as the Bride and groom were congratulated by family and guests and showered with money and gifts. The bride and her party were decorated with intricate henna patterns from the finger tips to the shoulders and all over the feet and ankles. The gowns were heavily jeweled and every girls dream. We were invited onto the wedding photos and then to the sit down buffet. This was inside a marquee in the Cathedral grounds where rows and rows of tables had been set out and an endless supply of food was served. A complete array of the tastiest dishes all prepared by the families and when we say never ending we mean never ending as they can expect in excess of a thousand guests. It was a pleasure to be a part of and we enjoyed every minute. We would of loved to stay longer and continue the celebrations but we had to get back to the now brooding driver.
We were taken to the "Government shops" as agreed and shown round being told "just look, not buy". There were impressive examples of craftsmanship in the form of huge wooden carvings, hand woven rugs and shawls and decorative ornaments. We would of loved to have bought quite a few pieces but the weight, size and cost were all too high for us to purchase anything, much to the dissatisfaction of the driver.
We then made our way to Deveraja market which was a spellbinding lively bazaar combining both the ancient and Indian faces of India with the international brands. A lot of the shops were closed at is was Sunday but it was still full of energy and spirit and we got a toned down version which suited us as we were feeling slightly weary. We had a break using the internet and catching up on Skype before we headed for the piece d' resistance "The Maharaja's Palace"
We had passed the palace a few times during the day and were taken aback by its size and intricate detail it is described as an Indo-Saracenic marvel and a description that fits its perfectly. It is among the grandest of India's Royal buildings and was the former seat of the Wodeyar Maharajas. The old palace was gutted by fire in 1897 and the one that we saw was completed in 1912 by English Architect Henry Irwin.
The interior is a kaleidoscope of stained glass, mirrors and gaudy colours undoubtedly over the top but spectacular complimented further by the awe inspiring wooden doors, mosaic floors and art collection. Unfortunately photos are not allowed inside.
We made our way around to another gate to join the crowds waiting for the grand finale the air tense with excitement and expectation. We didn't have to wait long and we weren't disappointed as the whole place including the outer gates which were examples of tremendous architecture in their own right exploded into light and shone in the night sky. A perfect end to our day in Mysore. We listened as the Police band kicked in and entertained the crowds and did a little waltz around as the fairy lights twinkled and the music played it was like a Fairytale and we were Prince and Princess!
We begrudgingly made our way out of the palace gates and back to the rickshaw but were cheered when we remembered the luxury we had awaiting our return so we picked up pace and told the driver to step on it ... All very Hollywood
We were treated to a buffet dinner in the hotel so we freshened up and donned the glad rags (well clean clothes without holes) and enjoyed the waiter service and four courses of traditional meals. It was fantastic!
We packed and cuddled up in the comfort once again making the most of every last minute of our stay, we had to be out early and back on the train the next morning.
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