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MAMALLAPURAM - MAHABALIPURAM
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After forward planning, the speed and precision with which we found our coach, stored our bags and seated ourselves was executed to perfection.
We decided to pay a little extra and splash out 1.60 for both of us to travel in comfort on an AC coach instead of the state bus. This was the best decision and we had a comfortable two hour journey taking in the farming communities and bustling towns.
We pulled up at the side of what looked to be a deserted road and the conductor signaled that this was our destination. A little apprehensive we got off. We need not of worried as within seconds we were surrounded by Autoricks willing to take us to where we wanted to stay.
We had a few options and explored them all before settling on Lakshmi Guesthouse which offered a large clean basic double room for a 7 pound a night about average. No hot shower but nothing new there and a bucket full of hot water was provided on request. The advertisements for the guesthouse use the fact it has a huge swimming pool as a major selling point. Unfortunately due to sanitary problems the pool (which is huge) only contains about a foot of stagnant rain water topped with a layer of thick algae.
Mamallapuram is like Jekyll and Hyde. It has no clear identity and is made up with a mix of individual styles and energies.
Mamallapuram village is tiny and spread along Othavadai St and Othavadai Cross st. This is where most of the traveller community can be found amongst the Guesthouses and so called restaurants/bars. There are rows of single room shops all filled with carved stone ornaments of varying sizes from tiny to life size. This is the main skilled trade here and everyone is a stone mason, or training to be a stone mason, or has a brother, uncle, cousin who has a shop selling stone work, you get the picture. The wares on sale range from poor to excellent some very plain, some exquisitely detailed, all hand carved. Had we been on holiday we would of returned with many an elephant, candlestick and general whimsey, but there is no way we could add any extra weight to our packs so had to resist the urge to shop. There are options to sit outside the shop and be taught the art and carve your own piece of stone for free which in theory sounds great until you have completed your work and are charged an inflated price to take it away.
These main streets lead up from Mamallapuram's beach but it still cannot be described as a beach resort. The stretch of sand is dirty and littered and is more of a storage area for the many fishing boats than a place for sunbathing. It is not a great place to swim either as the sea has dangerous rips but we wouldn't of ventured into it after watching the sun rise and witnessing man after man using it as a toilet and not just for a number one. Apparently there are nicer stretches a few km North and South but as the weather was not good we didn't bother exploring these.
The main attractions and the one's we had the best day discovering are the Temples, Mandapams, Gopurams, Carvings and the Five Rathas. Most of these were set inside a "Hanley forest Park" style area containing Mamallapurams largest hill dominated by a red and brown stone lighthouse.
Arjuna's Penance
Arjuna's Penance, a sculpted rock situated opposite to Talasayana Perumal Temple is the world's largest bas-relief. The rock has carvings of Arjuna in deep meditation and many other sculptures of Gods, elephants, monkeys, and other creatures looking on. A naturally built cleft down the rock is said to be a representation of the Ganges, which seems to be life like during the rainy season when water flows into a tank below.
Just a few meters away, to the left of Arjuna's Penance, is Krishna Mandapam, another bas-relief, carved in the mid-7th century, the fine detailed carvings of Lord Krishna indulging into his day to day activities draws and holds your attention.
Near Arjuna's Penance, to the north, is the huge spherical boulder known as Krishna's Butter Ball, balanced on a hillside it is a mystical phenomenon. It is perched precariously on the rock face defying gravity and looks like it could tip over at any time, Rod had a go at moving it but it wouldn't budge. Well if ten elephants can't move it we had no chance.
Mahishasurnardini Cave
Mahishasuramardini cave, remarkable for the two impressive friezes at each end of its long hallway. On the panel to the right, Durga, the mother of the universe, is shown seated on her lion. She is shown in the process of killing the buffalo-headed demon, Mahisha. At the opposite end of the veranda there is a sculpture in which Lord Vishnu is depicted sleeping peacefully on his serpent bed. On top of the hill there is another section that portrays sculpted figures and mythical scenes, including one large panel of Lord Vishnu as a gigantic boar.
Shore Temple
Sitting pretty on the beach overlookng the Bay of Bengal, early-8th-century Shore Temple is considered to be one of the oldest temples in South India. Its two towers started a trend that was copied by temples throughout the southern region and to other Asian shores. A sculpture of reclining Lord Vishnu is found inside one shrine, whereas the other two shrines are dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple is a classic example of Dravidian style architecture. Now to be honest we didn't pay the entrance fee as it was hugely inflated for foreigners and we could view it from the outside but it is a sight to behold.
Panch Pandava Rathas (The Five Rathas)
Placed in a sandy land excavated by the Brittish some 200 years ago, the five chariots (Panch Rathas) are named after the five Pandava brothers. Although they are not completed they provide you with a mesmerizing view into the past. The five chariots are so well crafted and showcase architectural brilliance. All five structures are carved out of single pieces of rock that underlines the fact even without super technology, the people in that era were highly skilled and crafty. These shrines are an epitome of perfect and precise planning. The dome-shaped tower found on some of the temples here, became an inspiration and example for other South Indian temples.
A full description taken from www.mahabalipuram.co.in
DRAUPADI'S RATH
This is located at the entrance gate, which is spectacular and simple, shaped like a hut and is dedicated to goddess Durga. Female door - keepers stand on the either ride of the Rath, one holding a bow and another, a sword. At the eastern wall a bas-relief stands portraying Goddess Durga standing on lotus and two worshippers at here feet offering flowers and one of the person's head respectively. Energy other walls have the figure of the great goddess, and at the front of the temple is a Lion's figure, which is the celestial vehicle to the Goddess.
ARJUNA'S RATH
The next Rath is the Arjuna's Rath. This one is dedicated to Lord Shiva. This has a small portico and carved pillar stones. Inside the shrine there are no inscriptions or figures whereas on the outer walls. There are carvings of gods and humans. A panel on the northern wall is carved with two door-keepers. Beautiful carvings of Lord Vishnu and a Garuda on One panel and the other panel with a couple. The eastern wall is carved with a double Dwarka-Palaks, in the middle wall the portrait of Lord Indra riding an elephant, a log standing of the left with has disciples and two beautiful women are perfectly chiseled out. These beautiful carvings hare been praised by many poets. There is also a figure of Nandi bull - which is still left unfinished.
NAKUL - SAHADEV'S RATH
In front of Arjuna's Rath is the Nakula - Sahadev Rath. This is a double level building, dedicated to Lord Indra - the God of Rain. As in Greek and Roman mythologies, where there are different gods for various aspects and qualified, the Indian mythologies too lane assigned specific gods for different aspects. There is some proof depicting this Ratha to which might have been dedicated to Subramanya associated with elephants. The elephants shaped sculptures face towards the sea. One who eaters the Panch Rathas, can visualize the back portion of the elephants and it named as Gajaprishthakara which means elephant's back side. The elephant sculptures are huge and are highlights of the Panch Raths.
BHIMA RATH
This Ratha is faced towards west and this is laid third of the Rathas. The shrine is gorgeous as it measures 42 ft in length, 24ft in width and 25ft in height. The pillars are lion carved whereas the other parts are plain. This Ratha too is an incomplete one. In the epic Mahabharata Bhima the huge guy is bulky and strong he is fond of eating all the time.
DHARMARAJA YUDHISTAR'S RATH
Of all the five Rathas, this last one stands huge. It is named after the eldest of the pandavas. Innovative and well carved designs can be seen in this Rath. This resembles the Arjuna's Rath and it is a perfect example to the later built South Indian Temples. This Rath is also dedicated to Lord Shiva like that of Arjuna's Rath. The ground floor is in complete. Above the ground floor stands minutely designed double floor. The peculiarity in this monumental construction is that there is no stair route from the ground floor to the first floor, but, there in stairs from the first floor to the second floor. There are eight panels in the ground floor. One panel is carved with the portrait of the kind and the rest with gods and goddesses. On one particular wall the figure of shiva is named 'Ardhanariswarar' which is the mixture of Shiva and Shakti. This is very attractive as one can find the manly structure and the luring female charm. Other portrayals show lord shiva as 'Bhikshatana' - meaning cosmic designer and the god of death.
Twenty two carves are found on the first floor. There is no central pasteurization in the first floor. The portrait of lord Krishna dancing on top of the fierce kaliya snake is depicted on the southern wall. Lord Vishnu's portrayal is found on the Northern wall. Carving of a bearded ascetic holding a bell in his hands, a devotee with a tuft, holding a flower basket, a temple attendant with bunch of keys and carrying offering to god are marvelously inscribed. The second floor is well carved. Figures of Dakshinamurthy, somaskanda, the sun the moon and other worshippers all found in this floor.
THE GANESH RATH
The only completed sculpture of the fine Rathas is the Ganesh Rath. This lies west to the Bhim Rath and it resembles the Arjuna Penance. It was earlier dedicated to lord shiva and now it is a shrine of Ganesha. There was a lingam structure earlier and now an idol of lord Ganesha has been replaced the pallavas did not stop with there fine Raths but they went on to build more sculptures of them four are found lying on the outskirts of mahabalipuram. Two Raths which lie side by side on the way to Tirukkalakundram are named as Pidari Rathas. To the south of these two Rathas lies the Valayankuttai Rath and the fourth one which lies opposite to the Mahishasura Mardini Mandap is nameless.
We thoroughly enjoyed our sightseeing day and was well worth staying for. We also enjoyed watching the wild monkeys terrorise the indian tourists and steal their lunch packs, the goats attempt to get a ride in an autorick and the Little Pigs snuffling around for leftovers.
We used our time in Mamallapuram to catch up on some blogging, photo uploading and general onward travel organising. It was while we were doing this that Rod was approached to be part of a Tamil Nadu Film. We were to be picked up the next day with three other guys and taken to location.
The next day arrived and we waited for our transport. We were driven in an ambassador (a grand Indian car) which we have wanted to take a ride in since we have been in India. We felt like celebrities just because of that. We arrived on set which was in between "Mal" and Chennai in a spacious Villa with its own pool. We really wanted to take a dip but weren't allowed. The 3 other lads were Sam and Jasper from New York and Mark from Amsterdam they were a great set of guys and we had a good time swapping stories and travel info and recommendations.
We were led into the gardens and provided with a Indian breakfast of Idli, Sambar and Coconut chutney which was delicious and much needed as we had not found any decent food since we left "Pondy". We were introduced to the main stars and told it was not a film but a TV commercial.
The story was a young Indian guy who had left his family to go to America for a business meeting. His mum was worried he would not be looking after himself or wearing the right clothes (Lakshmi Cotton) so while in the meeting his dad calls and expresses his concerns. It turns out they needn't of worried as the son returns home with his business colleagues all wearing their Lakshmi cotton shirts and Lungi's. Genius.
After observing some of the behind the scenes action like setting the camera angles and the lighting, watching the director giving orders and the art director (a grand title for the man who moved pieces of set around) making sure everything was in place aesthetically, filming began. We got to watch how it all came together and how the professionals homed their craft until Rod was called for make-up. We were taken into an upstairs bedroom that had been transformed into a make-up room for the day and also a make shift Green Room where we were able to chill out and keep cool between takes.
We watched as the main actors had their make-up done and retouched. We were surprised at how approachable the main characters were considering they are famous names in Tamil films. We chatted with them and each other for a while and then it was Rod's turn to have his make-up applied and first costume fitted.
We broke for a delicious lunch of popadums and lime pickle with various chutney, Veg fried rice and a selection of curries with varying flavours and heat. All the cast and crew sat around together except for the Lady stars who were Diva like and segregated themselves inside the house. They were nice and friendly to us though.
After lunch the main event began. Rod was fitted into his suit along with the other lads. Rod definitely had the best suit, we felt a bit sorry for the other lads who were quite tall so had 3/4 length sleeves and half mast trousers. Mark's outfit was the funniest of all with a silky spotted shirt and yellow patterned tie that clashed so bad it was good. The lads were lead downstairs and onto the set.
The set up was an office boardroom with a large table and chairs. This was filmed on a blue background so the backdrop could be added digitally at a later date. As Rod was taken through what was expected I stood behind with the director and was chief photographer. Rod played a blinder and was very professional it was great to see him on the small screen in his acting debut and a lot of fun.
We were heading back upstairs for Rod's costume change when I was called back, given a pad and paper and my instructions for the next scene. I tried to explain I wasn't there to act but to no avail (they obviously recognised star quality :0) so after a quick dusting of make-up I was thrown into my newly created walk on role.
Rod's second outfit was a Lakshmi Cotton shirt and Lungi combo and it suited him as much as the suit. The South Indian male Bindi was added to his forehead and he was set for the next scene. This was where they had arrived in India at the boss's parents . Rod was chosen to drive the car (it must be written all over him ... Rod Haycock .. Great Driver) and it only took two takes for him to execute it perfectly. The filming of these scenes lasted a good two hours even though it was only ten second shots but singles and groups and individual frames had to be shot and retouched until it was perfect in the directors eyes.
The lads then had to pose for photos for the advertising promo's looking relaxed and having a laugh together.
The filming finished around 9pm so it was a long day but one we enjoyed every minute of. We felt priviledged to have an insight into how things work and what goes into making an advert and we met some great people. We even got paid for it and received 11 pounds for a 12 hour shift. Which is a fortune when compared to the construction labourers who get 4.5 per 12 hours for carrying buckets of cement back and forth on their heads all day.
On our return the restaurants were closing so we headed to the main road and this is when we discovered the quality street food.
Now as I mentioned earlier we had struggled to get a good meal in Mamallapuram. We had found a locals restaurant which served us a good dosa but a dosa all the same. We had tried a couple of the restro/bars but walked out of one as the service was dire even by Indian standards and the one we settled on Coconut grove was not much improvement so we made our way through a bland meal out of necessity. What made it even more annoying is that the food isn't cheap so you are getting a bad meal and paying through the nose for it.
We had found a couple of breakfast options serving toast and cheese toasties with a good coffee, One being "Nautilus" and the other "Freshly n Hot" don't know what that name is about but again they are expensive for the quantity.
Discovering the street food is the best thing that happened. We enjoyed Veg samosa's (the nicest we've had anywhere yet) and Dahl Fry. We then found another stall that did spicy Veg noodles so we sat happily on plastic stools at the side of the road content with paying 60p for a satisfying dinner. Needless to say we visited the stalls regularly during our time. We did have an amazing South Indian Thali for Sunday lunch at Anand Bhavan, the Locals place on the Main road and we also discovered Nilgiri's supermarket which produced fresh Almond Croissant that beat Tesco's hands down.
We are still confused with our time here. Food and identity crisis aside it is a welcoming place and termed as "Backpackistan" in the lonely planet for the amount of travellers passing through on the Tamil Temple Trail. It is definitely worth a stay for the sights alone.
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