19/2/2010 Etoshe National Park
Spent two days at campsites in the National Park. 1.5 days of game driving through the park and saw my first Rhinos. Two males who had gotten into a fight just before we arrived and one of them was dripping blood from his nostrils and flanks. They both snorted and ran when they saw us and it was an awesome sight. Both the campsites had watering holes so i could watch the animals after sunset coming down to drink. My favourite was a big bull elephant who had a minor disagreement with a baby rhino before coming in really close for a long drink. Watched the most gorgeous sunset on the walls of an ancient ‘foreign legion’ style white fort.
21/2/2010 Spitzkopfe
Drove to the Namibian Matterhorn, a beautiful orange stone mountain in the middle of the desert. Climbed up one of the smaller hills to watch the sunset before joining the rest of the camp for tea. Probably the best day so far on the trip, very memorable though i am hating all the camping, it really isn’t for me.
22/2/2010 Swakopmund via Cape Cross
Headed to the adrenaline capital of Namibia via the smelliest cape fur seal colony ever. I’ve heard its their urine that smells so much but whatever it is it’s abhorrent. Managed about 15 minutes before giving up and retiring to the truck. These are animals best seen at a distance and preferably downwind!
Swakopmund was a disappointment. It was the only stop billed as hotels rather than camping but it turned out to be little more than a-frame bungalows sleeping 6 people, four of which had to share a single room. Ok if you are into hostels but i had been hoping for a room and a little privacy. I desperately needed to shower and sort my rucksack and it’s so hard when you have to share everything all the time – our morning ‘routine’ meant i had less than 10 minutes in the shower. I mean, it’s just not enough time!
I made up for this by doing lots of activities including sunset horse ride across the dunes and paragliding off the dunes, an amazing experience. My favourite though was getting to cuddle Spotty the Bull Cape Fur Seal on the dolphin cruise boat. He just hopped on the back and begged for fish. I take back what i said before, they are beautiful animals.
25/2/2010 Long driving day. Early start and late finish. No upgrades. Huff.
26/02/2010 Sesriem and Sousselflei
Morning sunrise on Dune 45 near Sesrium followd by a 2.5 hour guided desert walk from an ex-San bushman. He was amazing and showed me how to find tunnel web spiders and how to catch geckos and how to find my way home if i get lost in the desert.
Drove to Keetmanshoop and visited the Quiver tree forest and the Giants playground. The quiver trees were gorgeous and called such because the Bushman would use their branches to make quivers for their poison arrows.
Drove to Fish River Canyon and stayed at the worst campsite ever. Only two loos and showers between 50 odd people who all wanted to use it at the same time. Ate cheese and biscuits while sipping wine as the sun went down over the canyon. Very pleasant. Unfortunately it was also the hottest day and night, around 37 degrees during the day and over 25 at night. I sweated so much i thought i was going to pass out from the heat and from finding it hard to breathe. I now know i hate camping and never want to do it again. Its hotels and safari lodges for me in the future.
28/02/2010 Noordoewer – Orange River
At last, a decent campsite situated on the Orange River at the border with South Africa. I upgraded to a thatched bungalow looking over the river and its just fantastic. Am sitting here updating my journal after an afternoons canoeing on the river. Looking forward to dinner and then a quiet drink as the sun sets over the river 