Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Stefanie's Travel Journal
Tuesday was a long busy day.
I woke up early and went for a walk. I happened down this street with three schools on it (two primary and one high school I think) and it was fun walking to school with all the kids. Watching the parents dropping off their kids, kids buying pencils or breakfast on the way to school. It was all very nice to see routines that cross cultures.
Our group had tickets to see the Potala at 9:20am. We arrived just in time but then the guards at the gate gave Gelu a hard time and said we needed to have our passports with us and so we couldn't get in. We showed all the passports when we bought the tickets and they've never needed them at the gate and the ticket doesn't say to bring your passport but its not worth arguing. So Gelu ran back to the hotel while we waited outside. Once Gelu was gone, David made friendly conversation with the guards and said we had a plane to catch later that day and they let half of us in. The other half just waited about 10 minutes and then tried and sailed on in. It seemed like they just wanted to give Gelu (a Nepalese guide) a hard time. We felt bad for him having to run around for us when he's been such a great guide but he took it calmly.
The Potala was the government headquarters for Tibet. It was built by the 5th Dalai Lama in the 17th century when the Dalai Lama became the leader of the government. The Potala had little damage during the take over or Cultural Revolution and is largely in tact.
Only a very small portion of the Potala is open to the public however and the Chinese hand is heavy as you walk through. There are guards in the throne room where the Dalai Lama governed and in his bedroom and meditation rooms to ensure no photos are taken. There are cameras and motiond detectors everywhere. And from most of the rooms that are open to the public, the only view you are allowed is of the monument across the street commemerating the 'liberation of Tibet". Between the government influence and the hords (and I mean hords!) of Chinese tourists, it gets a little claustrophobic inside after awhile. But it was great to be in the room from which the Tibetan government reigned and interesting to speculate if it will ever reign from there again. It will be interesting later to see the government in exile in Dharamsala.
After the Potala I made the long walk back to the Barkhor Square area for lunch and some postcard shopping.
In the afternoon our group went to Drepung Monastery. Drepung is just outside Lhasa, was one of the largest monasteries in Tibet at one time, and in fact was the home from which the first four Dalai Lamas reigned before the Potala was built. Now it is quite empty but interesting to wander around.
Monasteries are like mini villages with separate 'colleges' that the monks align to, assembly halls for chanting, kitchens, etc. So after an interesting ride up the hill in a pick up truck with a tractor motor, we wandered around the monastery 'village' for a few hours on our own. I took some great photos of the architecture and scenery. At the end of the time I sat for awhile in the shade reviewing and culling my photos on my camera and a nun came and sat down beside me and wanted to review all my photos on my camera with me. We didn't speak a word of each other's language but we spent a pleasant 20 minutes or so together. It was nice.
After we returned to Lhasa I had dinner at a restaurant recommended in my book. I tried their specialty 'bobi' which is essentially flour tortillas served with your choice of filling (chicken and veges for me) and a cream cheese-based sauce. You assemble the food into wraps. It was good but not anything special really. I also ordered fried apple momos (like little apple turnovers) - yummy!
At night our group got together and walked back to see the Potala at night. It was lovely but we were still struck by the absurdity of the park across from the Potala (where we were standing to view the Potala). It is just so pretentious and over the top and out of place and clearly designed to impress. And the 'liberation' monument needs to be guarded 24 hours a day to keep it from being defaced.
On our way back we stopped in a Tibetan night club for drinks and dancing. Apparently it is normal in night clubs here to see a short performance first and then the dancing from the audience begins. I was too tired to stay that long but my group said the performance was very strange and not really worth seeing. It was a Tuesday night so the place was a little empty but resembled night clubs around the world.
I went back to the room to do a little laundry, wash my hair, and get to bed - ah, the exciting life you are missing here =)
- comments