How do we put into words the experiences of today...? We awoke to the sound of firecrackers being let off in the yard outside our room, a New Years Day treat that was to follow us for the rest of the day. A special Naxi alarm clock.
Breakfast was taken on the raised part of the courtyard where we had eaten our feast the previous evening. I had a ham pancake, a wonderfully fresh piece of Naxi bread, called Baba, with beautiful slices of fried bacon on top. Susie had a walnut and honey 'pancake' and Sam made a fried egg sandwich which she and Susie coated with chilli sauce and wolfed down as though they were starving.
Bags at the ready we met our donkey who would be carrying our luggage to the top of the gorge. Off we set with the gentle tinkle of the donkey bells to guide us.... they became fainter and fainter as the donkey and his owner skipped off into the distance and we slowly plodded on at a steady rate at an increasing distance behind. Bless the guide, he did stop and wait for us to catch up at regular intervals. At one point, as he was bouncing along ahead of us we realised he was smoking a cigarette!
I have to say that I was expecting the dreaded 28 bends to be a lot tougher, they were hard work but not the relentless hours of climbing that I had been expecting.... and suddenly we were at the top where we stopped for a chocolate and water break, looking out over the amazing views that the gorge offers.
Once at the top, the walking became so very much easier, dropping down through bamboo groves and pine forests, with glimpses of the mountain peaks above and the rapids of the river far, far below. Once, we saw a huge eagle soaring soundlessly across the ravine. There was silence apart from the occasional tinkling of goat bells, the odd round of firecrackers and the distant sound of the rushing river.
Some of the descending paths were quite steep. Ange and Sam competently strode down using their poles to assist. Never one renowned for her coordination, I had a little difficulty managing to plant poles and walk at one and the same time. Oh well, another day to practise tomorrow!!

We had lunch at 'tea horse' which was 'lush' (seem to be picking up Welsh words from Sam!) - fried rice and sandwiches to revive us. We walked on mainly flat paths after lunch, along the gorge, passing the most stunning waterfall set against grey and yellow rock faces.

We arrived, exhausted, at 'Halfway House' and sat on their balcony supping some well deserved beers and treating ourselves to some noodle soup. The rest of the evening was spent peacefully chatting with fellow travellers, sharing food with them and playing cards. Ange braved a game of Chinese Chess- Sam and I were most impressed as we had not grasped the first thing about the rules!!!