We arrived a little late into Naples delayed by strong winds. The approach to Naples was impressive, sailing between Capri and Ischia with a spectacular view of Mt. Vesuvius in the distance. Subsequent experience told us that this is by far the best way to see Naples -from a distance. It was all we had been told to expect - scruffy, litter strewn everywhere, rundown. The traffic was heaving and crossing the road required nimble footwork because drivers ignore traffic lights and pedestrians with equal measure. Taking the train to Herculaneum was straightforward and cheap.
Herculaneum, smaller than Pompeii, was at the bottom of the main street. The settlement was buried in lava when Vesuvius erupted in A.D. 79. Herculaneum was discovered and excavation was started in the 1960s. It is a perfectly restored example of Roman architecture - mostly residential with narrow roads and high kerbs. Examples of timber from the settlement showed carbonisation from the volcanic eruption. A number of communal bath houses gave an insight into the toilet habits of the Romans.
From what other passengers have said it was a good move to visit places independently and go at your own pace rather than be herded around in a large group. The only irritant was the persistence of the odd itinerant freelance guide.
We wandered through the city back to the ship - at least they make a good cappuccino in Naples.