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23 June - India - Varanasi - Ganges
Predawn bell ringing from a nearby temple across the river got us all awake. It was a relief to get up ... We were brought early morning masala tea, our tents were dismantled & packed away, breakfast was served & by 7am we were back on the river heading towards Varanasi. The day was hotter than yesterday & so still. The oarsman were having a hard time & we were struggling with the heat. We had to lie down to balance the boat which meant not a breath of wind. This was our fate for the next 5 hours..... Then we rafted up for another amazing feast but by now group morale was down, appetites minimal & all we wanted to do was get off, shower & cool down. We eventually pulled in ashore around 1pm amongst the water buffalo & stray dogs & people all trying to cool off. A short walk & we were back at the hotel. Showers & an hours rest & then we were off again.
P.S: I want to add that this overnight boat trip was exactly as per the itinerary & we knew what to expect. The unexpected factor was the heat.
Ironically the time when we needed cool or cold showers the hotel water ran hot only!!!!
Anyway, off we went on a walking tour around all the riverside 'ghats' which are stepped areas in front of old palaces built by powerful families in times past wanting to impress the gods of the Ganges. Late in the afternoon there are a few people around bathing themselves in the river ( I mean bathing with soap & shampoo, & washing their clothes at the same time), casual games of cricket, holy men trying to bless us, buffalo & cows & packs of stray dogs plus beggars, people sleeping on the steps, some just sitting & staring. This area is the heart of Varanasi & what pilgrims & tourists alike come to see. We don't see that many tourists so we are a source of interest to the locals - they just stare at us. The women are not friendly & usually just cover their faces with their saris, the men openly stare at us women. We as a group consistently get approached by kids selling baskets of flower candles, pleeeeeese, pleeeeeese they beg. Some speak a little English but this is no holiday job, this is poverty dictating every family member does what they can.
Holy men rattle tins in your face, old & or disabled people are sat on their carts or trolleys rattling metal bowls asking for money. We proceed through the market streets lined with vegetable sellers, sweet meats on trolleys, the egg seller, the chicken seller (oh dear), saris, scarves, bangles,spices, chai sellers. The press of people, hooting of horns & general babble is intense. To add to the mix we see the 'cremation ghat'. There are only 2 in Varanasi on the Ganges & only this one operates 24/7. Male family members bring the body wrapped in colourful fabrics on a wooden stretcher which is carefully placed on a pile of wood (all specially cut to length & thickness to accelerate a good fire). After a prayer the pyre is doused in accelerant & set to burn. In the time we were there 4 were at different stages in the process with a couple waiting. Some of the ashes are returned to the Ganges at the end and the rest are taken home so the family can have a funeral. After this we are ushered up some stairs to a silk wholesaler, our group groans soon turn to pleasure as the fans turn, cold bottles of water provided & we listen to our host. A very pleasant hour or so passes , purchases are made ( no one is immune to the beauty & prices). Off we return to the ghats for the evening festival and oh my gosh...... In our absence the crowds have swelled, drums are beating, lights are flashing & the river at the bottom of the steps of the main temple is heaving with people & wooden boats.
We follow the leader down the steps weaving in & out the masses to our boat. The crew look like they are 12, probably are 15, and off we head into the melee.
It's a perfect vantage point from the boat, the ceremony is amazing in all its glory & of course it's fascinating people watching. It's very good not to be in the ceremony but watching from afar.
We return to the hotel for a meal & rest as we have a sunrise cruise tomorrow morning. Some of the group are not well with tummy upsets & probably heat exhaustion. Can't count how many bottles of water & coke we have consumed.
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