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22 June - India - Varanasi - Ganges sail
Today's plan is a sail down the Ganges, camp on the riverbanks, then sail back tomorrow. Firstly, we have to collect Andrea from the airport & we elect to go in the vehicle to see more of Varanasi. Well, we got more of a tour than we bargained for as once we left the airport our driver got a little lost. R was using his maps so we wended our way though some little villages stuck in medieval times - fascinating because they are mud & dung buildings- until we met the other vehicle then it was all speed ahead to the river. It now about 35 degrees so there is a heat haze over the water & there is not a breath of wind. The landscape is flat with a few scrubby bushes which poses a problem for the ladies who want to ' use the bathroom '. No problem, it's amazing what a few sarongs held up in a triangle can achieve.
Off we set on open rickety local boats with a canvas shade & 2 oarsmen. 4 people to a boat. We are encouraged to recline on the cushions & relax.... But unfortunately the cushions are a little grubby so the flies swarm, it's very hot so one wants to drink but there is no bathroom & although we are told that 'the boys will row to the shore if we need to' the river is wide & the current quite strong. We achieved about 5 minutes of sailing before a squall went through & it became dead calm again. The kitchen boat follows us & soon we raft together & consume the most amazing indian vegetarian feast including dessert.
Off we set again & we got a bit of a breeze whilst we observed the people bathing in the Ganges, the buffalo cooling off & the local ferry puttering from one side to the other laden down with people,buffalo,motorcycles, boxes & bicycles.
We reach our 'campsite' which is a sandy river bank .. thanks to the recent monsoon floods. It's about 5.15pm & still stifling hot - one group member had a watch with temperature & it was 37 degrees. The team of boat assistants (11 in total) leap into action, put up the loo tent and all our pup tents & serve us masala chai which is quite nice.
We try & explore but it is soooo hot & no wind that we flop around. As the Ganges is a holy river we cannot have a cold beer, although by now the water & cokes were room temp.
All being well prepared travellers we lather ourselves with insect repellant which is fine but there were no mozzies & all we achieved was giving the sand something to grip onto.
Another amazing 3 course meal appeared all cooked out of the back of the little boat.
It's was too hazy to see the stars so we chatted & then the 'crew' brought out their boom box & after not too much encouragement they put on the Bollywood show of their life..... Bhagi (the guide) showed all his moves & got some of the young girls to join them.
The heat defeated my dance career sad to say.
Bedtime was a mission. The bedding was the cushions from the boat so we used our sleeping sheets & pillow covers. I was covered in gritty sand & lying down took you away from any slight air movement ...... R elected to sleep outside but it was no cooler there.
A very gritty, uncomfortable, hot & sweaty night.
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