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2 June - Tibet-Lhasa
We feel privileged to have got this far ... before we left I registered our details & plans with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade via www.safetravel.govt.nz. Today we received the following via email.
Travel to the Tibet Autonomous Region
Travel to the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) by foreigners is subject to change by the local authorities at short notice. Even if they already have been granted a travel permit, New Zealanders intending to travel to the TAR should check with their travel agent for updates before departure.
A word on altitude sickness: a very real issue if one climbs from sea level to nearly 5000 metres quickly. There is less oxygen in the air so you can feel breathless, dizzy, very disorientated & even die. By catching the train over a few days, receiving oxygen via the train & taking Diamox which increases your breathing to ensure you get enought oxygen we feel in pretty good shape. Couldn't run up a flight of stairs though.
Today, 2 June, we have a planned rest day so after a leisurely breakfast our guide, Dorjee, took us to get a sim card top up then left us to wander around.
The people are a delight but the little kids take the cake, running up to say 'hello', ' how are you' then running away. Many people want to practise their english. Walking around the old city is taking a step back in time. Every little nook & cranny houses a shop of some description. Horse blankets in one area, cooking utensils in the other, yak meat butchers, yak butter suppliers, cooking oil from rapeseed is pressed and distributed from 40 balloon drums with a hose resembling a petrol pump, highly traditional lacquered furniture from another corner. The people really live their lives on the streets and its fascinating. I might add that all the pavements are in various states of 'upgrading' as power, central heating & upgraded sewerage is all taking place at the same time . You really have to watch your step as broken bricks, gaping holes filled with'liquid' abound, spray painting is taking place in the streets that are windy & narrow plus of course scooters & bicycles bound!!
The streets are never quiet... ( well maybe from 2am to 5am). People think nothing of talking & shouting until the wee hours. We are near the Muslim quarter and walk past the mosque to get to the Main Street. You see the men trading, huddled in small groups haggling with their fingers under their hands. A truly biblical scene.
The other rather disturbing habit is the loud clearing of throat & spitting.
Some things you may be wondering - what are we eating ? Well, mainly Chinese street food as the hotels bland it down for tourists. Our definition of 'acceptable street food ' is must be busy with locals, have tables & chairs & a menu with pictures of the dishes & cold beer.
All delicious so far .. On the train our NZ supplies of 1 minute noodles & muesli bars etc.
In Tibet - well Yak meat dumplings steamed and/or fried. Yak is like beef. Yak meatballs with yogurt, yak meat wrapped around mushrooms. Have had salted tea but have managed to avoid tea with yak butter. This menu is not quite as appealing as the Chinese.
Our fresh water routine - we bought a Camel bak bottle with a UV treatment process. It takes a minute to treat 750mls. We also have 2 bladders that hold 2 & 3 litres respectively plus a water bottle each. Each evening we spend 10 mins or so making our water for the next day. Before you go OH MY GOSH!!! Why don't they just buy it there are 2 obstacles. Often we are not near shops as we know them plus there is no way of checking whether the bottle has been refilled with dubious water & a lid crimped on. SO.. We use 'our water' for everything ... Drinking, teeth, rinsing.... My daypack is weighted down by hand sanitizer, wet wipes & tissues as well.
The one thing that has struck us is the close similarity of the Tibetan people to the Bolivia & Chilean people in appearance. Their bone structure, colouring, the way they plait and wear their hair, their clothing with colourful aprons & hats. Very interesting.
The police & army presence is very very noticeable. There is a police station at least every 50 metres plus checkpoints at the end of all the streets leading out of the Old City. At these checkpoints all bags are checked & often scanned by X-ray machines as well. One is videoed as you go through the checkpoint. The police constantly patrol on motorbikes. Plus of course there is CCTV in every street. The old town is 3 stories tall maximum & we have spotted police on all the roof tops surrounding the main square. To date we have no issue but keep passports & permit close at all times.
- comments
fiona cavanagh I feel like I am there with you. You definitely have a writing talent Shelley!! We all great back here. xx