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Today was a lovely day on the Rhine. This is what we've come for.
We rolled out of Bonn early. Around 8am. There was a mist hanging over the river and not a breath of air. As we headed south, the only sound I heard was the gentle rhythmic sigh of my rawhide saddle, as it adjusted to the stresses and strains.
As the morning wore on the mists were burnt off by the sun to reveal a hot and sunny day. The were numerous river birds, red squirrels and lizards to observe.
The views of the Rhine were stunning as we passed through the likes of Boppard, Koblenz and Bingen to where we ended up at Eltville, near Mainz.
En route we passed the remains of The Bridge at Remagen. An important strategic crossing in the latter days of WW2. And the subject if a great war film. (Worth looking up, if you don't know the story.)
There was only one problem. As we were eating lunch, somewhere south of Koblenz we spoke to a German guy who seemed interested in our trip. At one point he asked where we might stop tonight. I said that we'd follow the Rhine to around Bingen. He retorted that this was not possible as we were on the Mosel! (And hence heading for Trier and Luxembourg). Evidently, the Rhine and the Mosel meet in Koblence and we were following the wrong river. So, back to Koblenz we peddled and, having crossed the Mosel, picked up he Rhine again. An easy mistake.
We arrived in the town of Eltville after a good 110ml stage. I've not been here for 40 years. My friend Mike Russum's mum, Gertrude, was born here. It's where she, a German, met Mike's father towards the end of WW2. It was Gertrude who first introduced me to cheese on toast (I'd wrongly resumed that I wouldn't like it.)
Eltville is a lovely little medieval town. Full of character. We ate Greek. All the stuff we selected from the menu was off, so we ate what they recommend: pheasant kebabs. It was ok. But it sure was not pheasant. It was pork.
For much of today we had followed signs for Euroveloute 15. It was very well marked and took us through varied car free settings. At times the waters if the Rhine were almost lapping our tyres but we also passed through rolling countryside with no river to be seen. We passed through orchards, car parks, industrial sites, cafés (literally between the tables), a crowded fun fare (where we bought nougat, and I was tempted by the dodgems), a circus and woods.
Jackie took a tumble in some woods.
No real damage, just scraped elbow.
We drink about 4 litres each. But it still wasn't enough - we were still a tad dehydrated by the end of the day. It had been hot. Maybe 27C.
Saturday we will look around Eltville, before heading further upstream.
- comments
Mr Jangut Sounds like the compass was a waste of money!
Wolfie We met a man (74 years old) in Suffolk yesterday who was cycling to the Alps (he didn't know you). He had a satnav on his handlebars, but said it sometimes sent him onto motorways. He owned 12 bikes, but was ringing a b'twin.
Waynetta There was an old man from Koblenz The size of whose thighs was immense He said " It's the hashing" Every Sunday my passion It stops me from getting too tense