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We were unsure of what to expect from New Orleans in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, as our guidebook hadn't painted a very positive picture and advised spending a little extra to ensure a decent hotel in a safe area. This turned out to be sound advice as, although there wasn't any notable 'devastation', our hotel turned out to be fantastic with its own living room and one of the most comfortable beds we've ever known, which was an added advantage after another hellish Greyhound journey which saw several delays.
Although we managed a spot of sightseeing during our two days in New Orleans, our main venture was to experience the famous creole cuisine. This began with a light snack of a Muffaletta sandwich, before dinner at Acme Oyster Bar where we enjoyed Jambalaya, Seafood Gumbo, Hush Puppies (fried cornbread) and Pecan Pudding, and so began our love affair with the local fare.
Having previously pictured a ghost town and planned to be back at our hotel by early evening, we couldn't have experienced anything more different. The place was awash with tourists enjoying the various restaurants and bars that line the streets of The French Quarter, the majority of which have been restored to their original appearance. Every bar, it seemed, had live music so we were spoiled for choice and at first listened to a blues band in a dark and smokey club before moving onto the popular Maison Bourbon where a fantastic jazz band was playing.
New Orleans had more than enough to entertain us until the early hours of the morning and at no point did we feel unsafe, which had been the warning. After only a few hours the city was already gunning for the top spot on our list of favourite American cities.
Along with the majority of other tourists the next morning, we made our way to the popular Cafe du Monde for hot chocolate and beignets, which was lucky as there was nothing else on the menu. Despite the uncomfortable humidity, we enjoyed our sugary doughnuts sitting in the sunshine and listening to the various buskers lining the pavements.
The architecture in New Orleans is beautiful, and walking amongst the boulangeries and geranium covered balconies you could easily convince yourself you were in France, until the obligatory Hard Rock Cafe spoils the illusion.
As is the custom in New Orleans, our thoughts were always on our next meal which led us, and a host of tourists and locals alike, to Jonny's Po-Boys. There were a number of Po-Boys on offer (a New Orleans style sandwich served on thick french bread and dressed with salad and mayonnaise) and we opted for the most authentic, deep fried oyster, which was suprisingly delicious.
We managed to finish our walking tour just as the wind started picking up and the sky grew darker. As a tourist there was almost cause to worry, but nobody seemed to be running for the hills, so we stuck around long enough to enjoy a Bananas Foster cheesecake we'd heard good things about and it didn't disapoint.
Those who question New Orleans' recovery are certainly doing it a disservice, as it's certainly one of the most vibrant places we've visited so far in the US. It's definitely on our list of places to re-visit, even if it's simply to enjoy some more jambalaya.
Rosa
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