Shankar's mother places a red tikka on my forehead and flower petals behind my ears as a traditional Hindu farewell to a guest. Durga and 'the accountant' also have come along to say goodbye. On arrival at my hotel in Chitwan National Park, I immediately see a rhino on the opposite side of the river, which is a very exciting welcome!

After a restful few hours, I go for a walk along the riverbank with my guide Santa. Yes, I know, but it's pronounced differently! He is a really likeable character, diminutive in stature but full of vitality and fun. He shows me two different types of crocodile in the river, the gharial (with a long thin nose) and the larger more dangerous mogger. We then walk further along the track and spot a rhino in the distance - SO exciting! The rhino continues to walk towards us and there is a mild panic among some of the people nearby including one who climbs a tree for safety. It then increases its speed. When a guide of twenty years experience in the park, says to run, you run! Eventually, the rhino stops and makes its way across the river close to where we are standing. That has got to be the most amazing short walk of my life!

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