Udaipur 06/03/09 - 09/03/09

We arrived in Udaipur on an overnight train. We both had a bed at the top of a bunk, which would have been comfortable had we not had to sleep with our massive rucksacks in bed with us. Blankets and pillows were provided and overall we were pretty impressed with the condition of the train.

We arrived in Udaipur at 7am. I had been awake since 5.45, since our train was due to arrive at 6.15 and I didn't want to miss the stop because we weren't 100% sure that it was the final destination. At the station we got a prepaid auto rickshaw which cost us just 27 Rs - just goes to show how much we're normally being overcharged!

Udaipur was very different to the other cities we have seen. It is all centered around Lake Pichola - a very picturesque lake with a lake palace and a rather posh hotel floating in it. The city had an almost meditteranean feel to it - with white and yellow washed buildings, blue sky and people out in the streets. You could actually walk down the roads here without the fear of being run over by a car/rickshaw/motorbike or cow. Saying that, it was in Udaipur that a cow weed on my leg and another one 'horned' Jane in the thigh - so you still had to keep your wits about you.

Our hotel (Hotel Kumbha Palace) was nice, as it had a garden and a rooftop restaurant which served jacket potatoes!! When I flung open the window of our room, we were greeted by a troop of langur monkeys in the trees. They reminded me of those 'free runners' who jump from building to building with no safety equipment. There were even two baby monkeys clinging to their mothers who seemed totally unaware that they were supposed to be safeguarding their offspring as they clambered up the branches and sprang off in death-defying leaps. We threw them some bananas from our windows which they ran over to grab, eating the skin and all. I only watched with the window open a crack because I was worried that they'd come in the room in search of more food! It was great to see monkeys so close though, because they're my favourite animal. The langur monkeys are definitely nicer than the rhesus ones (these are the only two types we see). The langur ones have grey fur and black faces and really long tails. The rhesus moneys are plain brown and look a bit more irritable.

In the afternoon we took a walk to the lake. As it's the dry season, the lake wasn't as full as it could be but there was still plenty of water in it. Whilst walking around we found that we had a follower - the most disgusting looking mangey dog. He had teeth protruding from his mouth and horrible bloody bald patches on his skin. It was a shame that out of all the dogs (and there are millions), this had to be the one which took a shine to us. He followed us as we traipsed up the hill, he looked out over the lake when we looked out at the lake, he sat down when we sat down. He was a very faithful companion. I'm not sure when we decided that, despite his unfortunate appearance, we did actually really like him. Jane christened him 'Fang' and we felt like we'd known him for years, although neither of us actually dared to touch him.

Unfortunately, we decided to go on some cable cars to get up to Sunset Point which overlooked the lake. This meant passing through a family of dogs consisting of three rather rowdy adult dogs and three very cute puppies. Taking an instance dislike to Fang, they began barking, growling and chasing after him. Our former companion sloped off down the road in the opposite direction to us, casting us a forlorn and longing glance.

When we got up to Sunset Point we sat down on some rocks and looked out at the whole city. It was actually really big, but still had a small town feel when you were in it. We were the only people up there when out of no where a guy joined us. It turned out that Myron was from England too and had also graduated last year - funny coincidence to meet on the top of a random hill in Udaipur. He was travelling by himself which we thought was very brave, and gave us a few recommendations about where/where not to go and also filled us in on Varanasi - where we would have gone had Jane not been ill. He said that it was even busier than Delhi and that the boat trip on the Ganges was quite an experience - he saw a dead body floating in the water. Jane said she was really glad that we had gone to Alwar instead!

That night we went for dinner with Myron and tried a Thali which is a selection of vegetarian curries and dahls and rice and poppadoms.

The next day we went for a boat trip on the lake and visited Jag Mandir which is a posh hotel in the middle of it. We also took a look round the shops which, unfortunately, sold just the kind of things we liked. In a dress shop, we both tried on a sari to see what it looked like (Don't worry - we had no intention of buying one! We have seen some westerners walking around in them, bindis and all, but it's not really our bag). However, we did decide to get some clothes made. We got to choose the fabric and the design and the tailor measured us and said our clothes would be ready tomorrow. I chose a boob tube dress and Jane chose a top which cost under 5 pounds each. When we went back I was pleased with mine but Jane was not too impressed with hers. That day I also bought a wall hanging and some cushion covers, both made using sari material. I am defintely going to have to send a package home!

In the evening we went to see a traditional Indian dance show. In the corner there was a man with a drum, another with finger cymbals and another with a keyboard which worked a bit like an accordion. The musicians, very much like the dancers, seemed to be making up the music as they went along - with no discernable tune or, for the dancers, choreography. Jane had taken a video of it, which we watched yesterday, which sounded according to Jane very much like her 'mum practising the trumpet and dad bashing the pots and pans in the kitchen.'

One of the acts in the show was a man making puppets dance. The lady announced this with one of our favourite introductions: "See Magician Ding Dong, watch how he plays with his body and shows us the magic." Funnily enough, we were the only ones who laughed heartily at this.

The finale of the show was a women who could balance nine pots on her head whilst dancing, standing on glass and removing hankerchiefs from vases placed on the floor with her teeth. Sometimes I wonder how I've got so far in life without acquiring that skill.

On our final day in Udaipur we had another look round the shops and then went to a Shisha bar. Afterwards Jane went back to the hostel and I went to buy a bag that would fit all my souvenirs in it - my backpack is already bursting at the seams. On my way back to the hostel, ignoring all the shop owners asking me to have a look in their shop, I saw a familiar face. "Fang!" I called out, and he started following me straight away! Right back to the hostel! Unfortunately, he couldn't cross the road so stayed watching me from the other side. That was the last I saw of him. We still sometimes think about him now.

On our final night in Udaipur we ate in the hotel rooftop restaurant. There were loads of lizards on the outside wall, which Jane was very pleased about because she likes them. "You better not bring one into our room," I warned her. Later that night, whilst lying in bed, I heard the words "Oh no! Rhiannon, you're not going to like this, but..."

The next day we set off for Jodhpur in a car because there aren't any trains between Udaipur and Jodhpur.

Jodhpur 09/03/09 - 10/03/09

We only spent one night in Jodhpur on our way to Jaisalmer. One night was probably enough, because it reminded us quite a lot of Delhi. We arrived in the late afternoon so rushed up the hill in a rickshaw to see the Fort. The views of Jodhpur were really nice. It's known as the Blue City, because a lot of the houses are blue in the Brahmin quarter of the city. The Brahmin are the highest caste in Hindu society as they are closest to Brahma. It was thought that the houses were painted blue because this is Brahma's colour, although it said in my guide book that the houses were white but then the anti-termite chemical they used turned them blue. Whichever the reason, it makes for a nice view.

The next day we had to get our train to Jaisalmer. My ticket said it left at 6am, so we got to the station at 5.30am. We then found out that the train was supposed to leave at 5am! Luckily it was delayed by 2hr 20 minutes so we still had to hang around until half seven. It was actually a good thing that we didn't get there any earlier! Jane went to sleep on the train but I spent the whole 6.5 hour journey reading a book which I had picked up at the hostel in Udaipur in exchange for an old book of mine. I have already read four books now. It's nice to have the time to read.

At the moment we're in Jaisalmer and will be leaving for Jaipur on an overnight train tonight. I'll write about what we got up to here soon - it includes a camel safari and the Holi festival - all good fun!

Lots of love xxxxx