Back to the Yukon and farewell to Haines Alaska

"So what tree is that then Brad?"

It is a strange fact that of the 20 or so Americans we know, 5 are biologists. After a weekend in the Yukon with two of them, Brad & Jola, who we last met in the middle of Namibia, it was apparent that the term "biologist" could only be applied in the loosest sense to Brad.

Brad guessed correctly that the tree in question was an aspen, the fact that the leaves were a stunning autumnal gold and quivering probably helped his diagnosis. Just in case though, he qualified his answer by saying that trees, plants and animals were not his subject, we never did find out what was!

We were walking in Kluane National Park to a feature called Thunder Egg mountain, recommended by Tim & Ann, our hosts. Here mineral based aggregates called concretions have formed in to very heavy and perfectly round cannonballs. We spent time trying to crack these open in the hope of finding gems or fossils inside, a futile effort as they do not contain them, but we only discovered that days later when chatting to Tim.

It was a brief re-union with Brad and Jola as they were busy applying for jobs in Alaska as biologists (!), having decided to settle down a bit after 2 years driving around Africa and South America on motorbikes. It was a good job it was a brief re-union, as we nearly ran out of alcohol. Brad's biology qualifications may be as suspect as Sarah Palin's foreign policy knowledge but he clearly graduated from the Dean Martin School of Drinking!

The Yukon in the Fall proved stunning, the colours took our breath away and the cold edge to the wind seemed to heighten the feeling of remoteness. That and the fact that the little town of Haines Junction had virtually closed up for winter!

We'd driven up to the Yukon, to meet Brad & Jola, after successfully managing to hand back a live husky and cat and an intact house to Tim & Ann after their return from holiday.

We did have a few heart stopping moments whilst housesitting in Haines. In one incident Tahvi the husky played tag with a grizzly sow and two cubs on the beach whilst we were sharing Ann's cheese collection with German friends. We managed to call Tahvi back and kept her indoors whilst the 4 of us sat outside watching the bears forage on the shoreline.

Returning to the house we discovered a somewhat guilty looking husky licking her lips in front of an empty platter which had previously accommodated three large chunks of cheese, including a strong blue cheese I was particularly looking forward to!

The Yukon trip ended all too quickly and it also signalled the end of our stay in Alaska. Brad and Jola had gone ahead of us to Haines to look for jobs where we caught up with them again before they headed back through the Yukon to Anchorage and Homer in Alaska. We wish them luck in their job quest (they'll need it if they persist on applying for biologist jobs!); and in any case we need some friends on that side of Alaska for future visits!

By the way, should you ever find yourself in the vicinity of Thunder Egg mountain near Haines Junction, don't be alarmed if you come across a horrendous looking walking hat. It belonged to Jola, but like the thunder egg concretions that rest nearby, it would be best left there for future generations to marvel at!

On our last evening in Haines Tim & Ann took us out in their boat to the beach at the end of Lake Chilkoot, where we sat round a fire as Tahvi kept an ear or two out for bears. It was a perfect place, quiet and beautiful, with perfect hosts, a perfect end to a perfect holiday!

It is impossible to thank Tim and Ann enough for their generosity over the last couple of months; they made their home our home, thanks guys!