"You declared your hair would be three inches shorter..."

My visions of traveling the world looking cool with long hair after years of having a corporate cut were fading. Sure at the right moment and angle I looked...well if you asked my girls I looked awful. Even Amy was wilting at her encouragement to let it grow since you'll never have this chance again.

While wandering the streets of Dubrovnik I kept passing this intriguing old school barbershop. The place had been there for years and even had a photo of George Clooney visiting the place. Now looking back I'm not certain he actually got his hair cut there, but I bought into that he did.

After eating lunch I went to see the Godfather of all Dubrovnik hair. He wore a white wife beater and white pants. His hands were strong seaman looking hands. The kind that tie knots and break things. His body was round and stocky. He clearly had lived. The men hanging out in the "salon" encouraged me he was the best and looking around at all the history on the walls I slowly began to believe it.

The history on the walls was of customers, politicians and history, and just plain old craziness. (I will say at this point that if you want the R / X version of this paragraph email me and I can fill you in of the craziness). Croatia and Dubrovnik are filled with a rich history and much of it is still alive given that in 1992 there was a full on war in the country. Also, buildings on the street next to the barbershop were flattened. There are also many questions as to their role in WWII in support of the Germans. So you had plenty of images of war heroes, the damage done to the city, and the political fallout.

Along with giving hair cut this was a place many of the local men just came to hang out and talk shop. One of them stopped in prior to going to work to have a beer. In the chair I thought how great is this, men coming in before work to have a few pops. Of course I was somewhat concerned that the Godfather hadn't already had a few pops himself since it was mid-afternoon.

But the Godfather was a true professional. He worked the scissors magically and there was no loud music blaring or ironic posters on the walls. Just some good ol' Croatian love songs that one of the men was humming along to. After the cut I went for the full on treatment and a rare treat in the States. A straight razor shave. These are the absolute best when done right and the Godfather delivered.

When he was done he gave me a hearty handshake and I paid him his 30 kunas - about $5 dollars and even gave him a "big" tip of 10 kunas. It was an experience I will never forget.

AG