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We are still becoming acclimated to the fact that we are here, in Iceland! The temps are mild, but the air is cold. The sky is usually dark but then dawn breaks and the sky becomes light gray, like our winter sky around 5 pm. Then, on a really good day, the sky turns blue, the sun peeks out, low on the horizon, and there is crystal clear light—but only for a little while. We were surprised yesterday when we actually caught sight of our shadows. We thought they had long left us.
Still, we like this place! What an industrious, happy bunch these folk are and their heritage is unbelievable. Attracted by the steaming cracks, crevices and pools of boiling hot water, Nordic Vikings found this land and started early settlements in the 8th century. I try to imagine how human beings survived in such harsh conditions, how they stayed long enough to find a way to trap and grow food, how they managed to find shelter, how they raised their young. When you see the photos you will see statues of the earliest discoverers and founders. First owned by no country, Norway claimed the land and established law. Before then they did not need "law"; everyone simply minded their own business. There was no religion either. Finally, Norway said, the end with paganism, worship of Norse gods! Iceland must be Catholic, so it was. Then later, the Danes took over and said, all must be Lutheran, and so they were.
We went to the Blue Lagoon last night . . . one of our "excursions". Before we went, already, I'm thinking 500 people in a hot water pool, how clean can that be; how much fun can that be; how will we manage running from a dressing room to the pool in swimsuits in 29-degree weather without suffering a seizure? But we went. Oh my goodness, we were completely taken by surprise! First the facility is beautiful and first-class. Yes, there are lots of people visiting but everything is handled perfectly. Every person is given a bracelet that holds a chip. The chip embedded in the bracelet allows you to claim, open and shut a private locker where you can store your stuff in a very nice dressing room - picture an expensive gym/workout facility. Any charges you incur for special spa treatments or drinks are simply recorded via the chip and you pay only once when the visit is over. How smart!
Here's the routine . . . you change into your swimsuit (yep, it's still 29 degrees outside), take a hot shower and then walk out into a small all-natural geothermal pool and then go through a door to the outside, never leaving the warmth of the water!!!!! Totally exhilarating!!!!! Try to imagine immersing yourself into the huge natural hot water pool. Its temperature of 99 to 102 degrees and natural salt content means it needs no chemicals. The crisp cold air is refreshing to your face and the big, huge sky above makes an incredible backdrop. This could have been the most enjoyable experience we've had in a great while. The pool area is really big, with multiple connecting pools and it is glorious! We soaked in the warmth, visited with people, floated in the amazing waters, and slathered our faces with geothermal silica mud to make our skin beautiful and simply luxuriated in this unearthly pleasure.
We returned to the hotel with snow falling. What a beautiful evening.
Today, Tuesday, we were on a bus for 8-9 hours but we saw so much. We left the city and drove south through lava fields and countryside . We saw four points of importance. First we walked the rift valley or the top of tectonic plates where North American and Eurasia plates meet. As the plates grind against each other, many small earth quakes occur here - changing what was to what is. This rift valley actually grows two cm a year.
One might think the center of importance of Iceland must be in Reykjavik, since it is the largest city. But the center of Iceland, and the first parliament was first here in the rift valley. This is where the first "laws" were read. Men who broke law hanged for their crimes, women were held down in the "drowning pool," about 3 feet deep, until they were drowned. Very sobering!
Our next stop was the tomato farm. Because there is limited of cultivatable soil, limited growing season, but an unlimited supply of hot water, hydroponic crop production is of vital importance. We visited the largest tomato farm in all of the country. Here three varieties to tomatoes are grown: round, cherry and plum. This particular facility produces 1/3 of all tomatoes consumed in Iceland. It is a very interesting process and old-time back-yard gardener me, learned a lot on how to raise the best and the most tomatoes in a season - I can't wait to put these tips into use. Oh and the horses!! Icelanders love their horses. There is only one species, Icelandic Horses. No other varieties. In fact, Iceland is careful to maintain only certain species of plants and animals; they strictly quarantine so that disease is not introduced. Icelandic horses have short coats in summer but grow long, thick beautiful "fur" for winter.
The winter coat means they must stay outside in cold weather so they keep their coats!! No indoor barns for these guys.
Next we visited the hot springs! This area is like a mini-Yellowstone set along the side of a snow-covered mountainside. There is a geyser that erupts about every 6 minutes. There are streams and pools of boiling water, and mud pits all surrounded by fresh snow. It was surreal; the beauty, the stillness, the mono-tone colors -- and the Japanese guests laughing loudly and making snow-angels along the paths.
We had brought sandwiches but after such a chilly morning, the hot soup in the restaurant where we stopped was just too appealing! We tried traditional Icelandic soup - lamb and vegetables in a wonderful, perfectly seasoned broth. It made me think of soup my grandmother made so many years ago and it warmed our bellies and our souls.
Gullfoss - Golden Falls is on the Hvita River which is fed by run-off from the glacier, Langjokull. Of course the falls are breath-taking. The fast-moving river can be seen for a good distance winding and flowing toward the falls drop-off. Along the perimeter, frozen mist takes on the appearance of cauliflower pillars. The water going over the falls is brilliant blue and green. The air around the falls is crisp and COLD!
Dinner tonight was at Layga-as, a wonderful neighborhood seafood restaurant. We like to try new things, especially dishes that locals prefer. We started with a potato soup and a seafood soup and shared Bondadagsveisla or, Mink Whale. I have not researched Mink Whale to fully understand what we ate, but I can say that it looks like steak and tastes like steak. It was delicious! The soups were amazing as well.
The sky was heavily clouded. Again, no Northern Lights for us.
- comments
Megan Janie and Stan! It was such a blast to have some drinks with you at the Blue Lagoon! You made my evening as a solo gal much more fun than I would have imagined! I hope the rest of your trip was great. I'm reading all of your posts now. My friend Chris finally arrived on Tuesday and we jetted up north and had a great time up there, too. Even went to the "Blue Lagoon of the North," the Myvatn Nature Baths. Hope you had an easy trip home and I hope to see you in NYC or the ATL sometime soon. All the best to you both!