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Just as i went to bed in the Formule1 (or rabbit hutch as we knicknamed it) motel on the outskirts of Quimper i sent a few hopeful messages out on the couch surf network. That was last Friday and since then we have been enjoying the kindness of strangers all along our way. On Saturday morning my first couch surf reply arrived as i was packing my bag. Having had a read of this blog, Carine was happy to host us for a night and help us find other hosts. Despite having to wear my trainers because my blisters were so painful, we set off with new hope and enthusiasm, finally saying goodbye to Quimper.
And so on to the village of Elliant where we passed 3 hours in the bus stop, soaking up winter sun, until our hosts were home for the evening. Armed with a pack of beers, an uncertainty as to what to expect and a British awkwardness about invading strangers homes, we knocked on the door. We were treated to a woodburning stove warmed, family home with delicious meal, lovely company and a warm comfy bed. And so this contuned for the next few nights as each of our hosts contacted a friend further along our route and we were made to feel so welcome. We enjoyed homemade crépès and waffles, innovative eco homes, our own woodcutters lodge, homemade bread for our walk, dancing dogs and pick-up-sticks. Dave even had a french lesson from a charming 3 yr old little girl whose expressions bridged any language barrier.
On the advice of one of our hosts we diverted our route slightly to take in some sights. At La Faouet we went to the beautiful Chapelle St Barbe that was perched on a cliff side overlooking a forested valley. Just outside of Plouray we visited a Bhuddist centre nestled in the middle of a pine forest, the mix of complete calm and vibrant colours was amazing against the dark brown and greens of pines and the tap-tap-tapping of woodpeckers. We also diverted north to join the Nantes - Brest canal; for it's easier walking (kind to my feet and impossible to get lost on) and it's change of scenery.
On our way we were invited in for lunch "out of the cold and with a hot drink" by a teacher on holiday who saw us layering up in the village of Mellionnec to have our food. We also met Trevor, a former Sheffield pub landlord, who now sold Tetley teabags and baked beans to fellow expats in Gouarec (a quintessentially rural french town oozing with Brits). After a hard days walking up and down the banks of lake Guerledan we spent a night at the first campsite we have found open in 2 weeks, before heading to Pontivy. A day and a half rest here now. A chance to help my blisters heal (the only thing still holding us back from upping the kms each day), do some washing and get set for our next destination - Rennes - all being well.
- comments
John Bampini All sounds rather wonderfull aside from the blisters, dare say the feet will toughen up in time? Out of interest will you be going through Nantes, as I believe there is some huge mechanical elephant there that I got a weird fascination with? Much love to you both, love following your progress! x Hi Bamps, Not heading that far south unfortunately, we left the canal at Josselin so no massive elephants for us!
p & K Nice Prose... Glad your spell-checker has kicked in! Have Fun. Love P & K