We've had a day and two nights in Olympic NP in northern WA. The drive in was spectacular, lakes surrounded by steep mountains with snowcaps in the distance reminded us of New Zealand. It gets dark before 5, so when we found our cabin it was very dark, down a small country road. There were cabins and a homestead and we hadn't seen a restaurant for miles. We huddled under the umbrella looking for a sign. Me winding my little friction powered torch as we went. Finally, we knocked at a nearby homestead to find our lovely, welcoming host. It was well worth it. I am now sitting in front of the lovely gas fire in our cabin.

We explored the Hoh rainforest and a couple of beaches today. It was a good day for rainforest and waves - wet and cold. The Hoh was fantastic. All the trees, maple, conifer and others, were draped in blankets of green, hanging moss, their own leaves protruding where possible. Massive trees would be lined up, with hollows under them where the log they fed off used to be. It was the kind of forest where you expect to find fairies and pixies. We didn't (find fairies or pixies) but we did see two industrious wood peckers up close, a couple of squirrels and elk. Apparently a bear lives near our cabin but we haven't met her.

The beaches were striking with rock formations jutting out of the water. They would be beautiful with blue skies, but today, with the freezing rain, mist, wind and crashing waves, they looked foreboding.

Tomorrow we cross the border into Oregan.