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Day one in Portland was not as I'd expected. Luckily I was allowed to check-in to the Benson early. While they de-feathered my room I waited in the lobby and made a couple of Skype calls. The fire alarm started going (and it wasn't a drill), however no one left the building, so I think it was a false alarm.
After freshening up and seeking advice from the concierge, I headed for Powells, a famous bookstore here in town. I took the recommendation of jumping on the North-South streetcar to tour the city. You can buy an 'honor citizen' pass for $1 and ride the tram for 2 hours. I must admit Portland wasn't what I expected and did wonder what all the broo-haha was about. The tram seemed to visit all the grotty parts of town, but I took pictures anyway. I completed the circuit before my 2 hour time slot was up. I decided to wander downtown and discovered this is what I should have done all along. I discovered the shops, wandering in and out of Nordstrom, Banana Republic and some independent stores before dark. I'd spotted Oregon Wine on Broadway on my way in and decided to stop and sample a glass of Sauvignon Blanc with Brie and raisins. Sitting at the bar I got talking to David, a recently retired construction contractor. We discussed 'green buildings' and the challenges of persuading the sector of the merits. The bar seemed to attract locals and was a great place to briefly hang out. I then stopped at El Gaucho, a cool and dimly lit establishment for what turned out to be a delicious but my most expensive baked potato to-date. It was fork fluffed at the table and accompanied by a side of cheese sauce, plus I ordered the chipotle roasted corn. $18. It was delicious though and made all the better by the Bellini and charming waiter from Miami.
Day two I decided to head straight downtown. I started at Public Domain Coffee for the best tasting latte I've ever had. Portland is quite the food and drink destination, and this is the spirit in which I approached it today. I then wandered through the shopping area - Macy's, Pioneer Place Mall, etc. I headed up SW Yamhill Street toward a green area, Westside River Parkway, all the while looking in the windows of cafés and Eco-businesses. I then went through the historic waterfront district, ending up at the Picnic House on Salmon Street for lunch. The decor was really curious. Kind of trendy, kind of quirky, with letter press print on the walls and a bear's head over the bar. Despite a waiting list I managed to get a seat at the bar straight away. The half half of soup (butternut squash, toasted pumpkin seeds, cranberry cream and fig butter) and salad (rocket, leaves, sprinkle of feta, candied almonds and berries) all washed down with a glass of Chardonnay. Another interesting taste sensation. I had pudding at Tart-Berry Frozen self-serve yogurt, sampling a chocolate, peanut butter and chocolate in a kiddie size cone (which was a perfect size). Onwards for my next coffee at the Flying Elephant Deli. As I said I decided to immerse myself in the food culture. I'd read a Sunday newspaper travel article years ago about Portland, and this is why I'm visiting here.
I then walked up (weaving in and out of curious independent stores) toward the Pearl District, where there's a mix of bars, cafés, micro breweries and shops. I would love to have bought some blue Japanese pottery from an oriental emporium, but my luggage and carrying capacity put paid to that. I spent at least an hour wandering this area before my next coffee experience at the Umbrio Cafe on NW 12th. I had a medium roast cafe au lait with a lingonberry macaroon. My most indulgent day so far!
I dropped into Whole Foods, but didn't buy anything. I then caught the streetcar to Safeway to buy snacks for tomorrow's train trip.
Portland grew on me throughout the day. It's very artsy, with a real assortment of people in eccentric attire, with trendy hair styles, all very individual. One thing I did note was the huge number of homeless people who seem to hang out on the streets of the Pearl District, busking, selling a magazine (similar to Big Issue) or begging. Really sad, and must be hard living, especially on a chilly day like today.
Check out my photo gallery on Flickr http://goo.gl/7aS0tz you may note the contrast between day 1 and day 2.
I'm headed down to the bar at the Benson for a cocktail. It's happy hour after 9pm. Sounds like my kind of hour to celebrate my last evening in Portland before the next leg of my train journey to California.
No wifi for a day. San Francisco calling.
- comments
Chris Wonders of wondering - another word for meandered is wandered; not always picked up on spell check, but you might want to try it. And Portland Rocks!
Mo Well spotted Chris. Thanks. Do I know you?