Good morning from La Paz. Arrived here on Thursday. The journey from Copacabana to La Paz was through the most stunning scenery. Lake Titicaca is such an amazing lake, so big you really feel it is a sea and surrounded by large empty spaces with just the odd worker in the fields. All the buildings we passed are very basic and the outskirts of La Paz are depressingly poor and shabby. Felt a bit disappointed, is there no where here that is above subsistence level! However, La Paz itself is a revelation. A teeming, bustling city full of narrow streets, market stalls, traffic, noise, life at its most vibrant. Our hostel is lovely, although that is another story in itself! Again built around a courtyard on a street that houses the famous witches market and is teeming with life. It has the feel of the left bank although obviously not as posh but with a real artistic flavour. We had dinner in an amazing restaurant last night, Donal would have loved it. Up a creaky wooden stairway into a room crammed full of objects, cameras, clocks, mirrors, pictures, etc all lit by candlelight! Looked wonderful, not sure how good it would have looked in daylight but really amazing at night and full of atmosphere. Had a wonderful steak meal (sorry vegetarian friends) with a nice bottle of red wine for the equivalent of 20 quid! Quite expensive for here but felt we deserved a treat. Anita danced down the street back to our hotel!

Got stung by an agent in Puno who arranged our hotels in Copacabana and La Paz. From talking to other travellers, realised his commission was over 100% but have now got his measure and are dealing with it! The hotel he had originally booked us into in La Paz for 50$ a night actually cost 7$! We are not staying there!

There is a catholic fiesta on here today so the streets are full of exotic dancers, bands, fireworks etc. Although 99% catholic their fiesta seems to be a mixture of myth, diabolicism (!) and catholicism. A nice mix! Will go out on the streets after I have finished this.

Went to the Museo National de Arte yesterday. The contents were interesting, mostly Spanish influence but the building itself was stunning. Probably the best setting an presentation of art I have seen anywhere.

Love getting your messages, keep them coming. Happy birthday Michael and Mary.