Monday 16th May 2011

Greenhead to Steel Rigg

The night istempestuous. The weather is gale force winds all night long. Most of the night we were awake as were Molly and alan. The noise of the wind on the vehicle and bikes and the rocking of the vehicle and bikes seemed to go on for ever.In the morning we try to move Horace but one of the wheels is 6" below ground level and a tractor is needed.

Today I am accompanied by Alan and we depart ourcampsite and leave Molly and Annie to deal with the routine matters such as being able to move Horace.

Al and I are dropped off on tyhe A69(T) to start our walk along Hadrian's Wall. After1/2 mile we reacvh Haltwhistle Golf Club, wide fairways on a parkland course and from the little we could see very forgiving for drives that are not too accurate but5 with interesting sloping greens which looked fast and in reasonable condition.

Al and I walk round Thirlwall Castle and then on to Hadrian's Wall. Although not too wide (or too high) it is built on the top of a cliff-face with very little chance of anyone being able to climb it in force. With Milecastles and two turrets between each milecastle backed up by a road on the English side of the wall to enable troops to be transferred at speed, the positiion is almost impregnable. Why was it built here? Because it is the ideal base for this type of defence on a cliff-face.

We walked up and down, up and down all alomg the cliff. From Greenhead to Walltown Crags, from Cachment Hill, to great Chesters, to Cawfield Crags and then to Steel Rigg before Hotbank Crags, Cuddys Crag and Housestead Crags. Each are only a few hundred feet but in total over 2000 ft.

All this way we expected the rain to fall but it was only in the last 10 minutes as we descended to the carpark at the visitor centre thet it started.

What was the overall impression. A well positioned defence against the scots. High on a cliff-face with minimal opportunity for it to be breached. But it was 80 mileslong. A substantial cost to defend the Roman Empire in one smasll corner, with many soldiers spending most of their time simply providing food for their fellows. An excellentmilitary solution if not an excellent financtal solution. After it was built in 122 AD by Hadrian within 100 years the turrets became unmanned (financial problems, the previous Caesar had been a spend-thrift).

The most fascinating historical part of the walk so far and for many reasons.

So although only 11 miles it was stil 1,873 ft and at last I had reached 30,000 ft - more than Mount Everest.