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So, we had a good flight from Vientiane to Phnom Penh and had a smooth process to obtain a Cambodian visa. We then got a taxi from the airport and our first impression was that it was like all the other places we have visited in Asia - pretty sprawling, hundreds of motorbikes on dusty roads and lots and lots of people.
Once at the hotel, which was good but out of town, we headed to the nearest restaurant...which was a mistake. We had 3 people take our order as they couldn't understand English nor written Khmer and again, like in Vietnam, I didn't exist - no hello or menu or knife and fork. Then the food came and all 3 waiters and waitresses just stared and watched us eat. It was the most uncomfortable meal I have experienced in a long time...worse than any bad date dinner!!
I couldn't get out of there quick enough. We then grabbed a tuk-tuk and had a ride to the city centre where we had a look around the shops, booked a tour and ended up having many drinks in the Foreign Correspondents Club (fake coke in coca-cola bottles beware), and Paddy Rice, the local Irish Bar where we pretty much stayed all afternoon and evening, eating baked potatoes with cheese, apple pie and watching Chelsea beat Manchester United (boo) as well as chatting to a guy and his sister who live about 2 minutes from where I used to live in Manchester!
From there, we grabbed another tuk-tuk and enjoyed the cool breeze as today was so hot and sticky. The first thing we had to do was have a cold shower when we got back to the hotel.
What we have noticed in the Asian countries we have visited is that for men who have a hairy mole, they grow the hair as long as possible....some have been as long as 3 inches! We think it must be a status or virility symbol...would love to know if there is a real reason!!
The next day, we spent the morning at Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields) which was a shocking and moving experience. It was here in 1980 that the bodies of 8985 people, victims of Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge comrades, were exhumed from 86 mass graves. All of these people had suffered terribly and were either beaten to death, shot, poisoned and buried alive or electrocuted. Towards the end of his regime, Pol Pot was murdering 300 people a day....We had a guided visit and first we saw the memorial stupa which commemorates all those who died from 1975 to 1979 and displays the skulls, bones and clothes of the victims. We then saw the mass graves and trees where the babies were smashed against - there were still marks on the bark. It was a truly evocative place. From here, we went to the Toul Seng Genocide Museum (S21). During the regime, a secondary school was turned in to a prison and interrogation/torture centre. From 1975-1979, an estimated 20,000 victims were imprisoned here. It is pretty much as it was back in 1979 and there is barbed wire, tiny cells with blood stained walls, and instruments of torture as well as hundreds of photos of those who died. It was thoroughly depressing but well worth visiting.
We then headed back to town for lunch and then headed to Paddy Rice and spent a few hours watching the Malaysian Grand Prix. We then headed for dinner at Bojangles and had a great and cheap dinner before getting a tuk tuk back to the hotel and watching TV before an early night and good sleep!
For our last day in Phnom Penh we had a super super burning hot day...and this was our city tour day! We headed to the National Museum first which was really well put together and had lovely gardens as well. We then headed to Central Market to try to find a suitcase but I was annoyed within seconds as I didn't exist again and every time I commented on the suitcase, the seller woman stared me down and disagreed with all my comments as well as disagreeing with what we were looking for...oooohhh, I was mad, mad mad! I then switched off as this is yet another example of where women don't really exist here. I'm letting Max be Boss Man here as he knows it will change once we get home and he has a Wife :o)
From the Market, we headed to Bojangles for another great meal and then we went to the Royal Palace. The buildings are both simple and ornate here and the gradens are beautifully maintained. The original palace was built in 1866 and as the King still lives there, you can't visit it but you can visit the pagodas, stupas etc. We also visited the Silver Pagoda who's floor is covered with over 5000 silver tiles. It is was built in 1892 and again, is a well maintained, impressive building. From here, we headed back to the Market to try and get another suitcsae but we failed in our haggling bid and came home empty handed....Max felt defeated but we still have Siem Reap and then Petaling Street so other opportunities to regain some Dutch pride :o)
From here, we went back to the hotel for the air con and a relax before heading for dinner to.........Bojangles and again had a great meal. It really is the best restaurant we have been to for a long long time. We then had an early night as we were up early for our bus to Siem Reap. Takeaway breakfast at Bojangles was top of the day before our pick up to the bus station and our 6 hour journey to Siem Reap. It was ok, but really stuffy and hot and we had way too much Cambodian karaoke, We had a pick up at the bus station, before arriving at the very lovely and friendly Hotel 89. We had welcome drinks and freezing cold towels which was lekker. After settling in, we headed for a cheap Khmer lunch for just over $5 and then headed to the old market where we had a mini spending spree and much haggling which was fun. Max redeemed himself on some articles but still hasn't closed out on the suitcase situation!! :o)
The next day was wonderful. We started the day early at 4.30 as we were picked up by tuk tuk to get to Angkor Wat. The Temples of Angkor are at the heart and soul of the Kingdom of Cambodia. We had Den, our guide for the day and arrived in the darkness around 5.30am. There were some people but it wasn't super busy and we saw the sunrise over the temples which was special. We then spent the morning exploring Angkor Wat. It is simply unique, a stunning blend of of spirituality and symmetry which was so beautiful and there was so much detail. The extensive bas reliefs tell stories that Den narrated to us and it was very interesting. We then visited Ta Phrom which is a very atmospheric ruin. It is really interesting as it has been left to be swallowed up by the jungle and the tree roots have come through the stones walls and both live together without falling down. Ta Phrom is a temple of towers, close courtyards and narrow corridors There is also the famous Tomb Raider tree, which is where Angelina Jolie picked a jasmine flower in the film!
We then visited Angkor Thom, which was once a fortified city some 10 sq km in extent. The most beautiful part is the Bayon, a collection of 54 towers decorated with 216 faces which is so beautiful to see.
We also visited some smaller temples including Baphoun and ended the day seeing the sunset from the top of the mountain before heading home in the tuk tuk and flaking out. It was a long but super day. We then headed for dinner and on the way home, Max was a champion, redeemed his pride and got a suitcase for a great price!
For our last day in Siem Reap we did absolutely nothing which was good as it was so hot so we surfed the net, slept, ate and had an early night.................
And so ends our time in Cambodia which has been great. Cambodia is a very interesting country with a terrible and brutal history (and that was only 34 years ago) and it is a country still rebuilding and suffering. Generally, the people are friendly and approachable and despite the constant requests for money or tuk tuks or massages etc etc, it is pretty laid back. Unlike its neighbour Laos, the Wats, National Museums, National Palaces etc are very well maintained and development money is evident here but more is required and it needs to go to the right places and people.
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