Tuesday 29 July 2008

Rode the skytrain to National Stadium and walked to Jim Thompson's house using my map. Very proud of myself.

Jim Thompson's house

Jim Thompson's house is so beautiful with ancient buddha statues from the 7th and 8th centuries and the most amazing paintings. Unfortunately they won't let you take photos inside the house.

Jim Thompson was born in the USA in 1906 and was an architect prior to World War 2. He volunteered for service in the US Army, campaigned in Europe and came to Asia as part of the force that hoped to help restore Thailand's full freedom and independence. However, the war ended before he saw action. He arrived in Bangkok a short time later as a military intelligence officer. After leaving the service he decided to return and live in Thailand permanently.

The hand weaving of silk, a long-neglected cottage industry, captured Jim Thompson's attention, and he devoted himself to reviving the craft. Highly gifted as a designer and textile colorist, he contributed substantially to the industry's growth and to the worldwide recognition accorded to Thai silk.

He gained further renown through the construction of this house combining six teak buildings which represented the best in traditional Thai architecture. Most of the houses were, at least two centuries old and were easily dismantled and brought to the present site, some from as far away as the old capital of Ayudhya.

In his quest for authencity, Jim Thomspon adhered to the customs of the early builders in most respects. The houses were elevated a full storey above the ground, a practical Thai precaution to avoid flooding during the rainy season, and the roof tiles were fired in Ayudhya employing a design common centuries ago but rarely used today. The red paint on the outside walls is a preservative often found on many old Thai buildings. The chandeliers were a concession to modern convenience, but even they belong to a past era, having come from 18th and 19th century Bangkok palaces.

All the traditional religious rituals were followed during construction of the house, and on a spring day in 1959, decreed as being auspicious by astrologers, Jim Thomspon moved in. The house and the art collection soon became such a point of interest that he decided to open his home to the public with proceeds donated to Thai charities and to projects directed at the preservation of Thailand's rich cultural heritage.

On March 26th 1967, Jim Thompson disappeared while on a visit to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. Not a single clue has turned up in the ensuing years as to what might have happened to him. His famous Thai house, however, remains as a lasting reminder of his creative ability and his deep love of Thailand.

I bought some Thai silk cushion covers, a silk scarf, a print of an ancient painting 'Himapan', a print of the tiger from the Siamese horoscope and some Jim Thompson tee shirts.

Himapan

The painting of the white elephant is called Himapan (the name of a forest). A child, named Vessantara, is born and brought up in regal luxury at his father's court. Married to Madsi, the daughter of a neighbouring king, a son, Jali and a daughter, Kanha, are born to them.

As a very young prince, Vessantara was given a white elephant whose magical rain-making ability guarantees fine crops in the kingdom. In this scene several Brahmins, sent by the nearby King of Kalinga, whose land has been suffering from a prolonged drought, seek out Prince Vessantara and beg him to give them his elephant that they may return with it to their own country and save it from drought and famine. Prince Vessantra is shown pouring water onto the hands of the supplicants, signifying the gift of the elephant. The people of Sivi, however, are greatly angered by the departure of this wonderful beast whose presence has assured their prosperity, and they persuade the king to banish his son from the country. Vessantra's wife, Madsi, insists on accompanying her lord and husband into exile.

Khao San Road

Caught a taxi to this famous road and got caught in Bangkok's bumper to bumper traffic chaos. Khao San Road is where most backpackers stay and it was full of Thais selling pirated CD's, DVD's, clothes, silver jewellry. Music blasting everywhere. Had a Heineken beer in a bar there. I was walking and constantly harassed by tuk tuk drivers.

Stumbled upon an ancient wat just as it was closing.

Siam City Hotel

Siam City Hotel is renown for its beautiful furniture, artworks and silver ware. And it has 8 restaurants - Patummat (buffet breakfast, international buffet lunch and dinner), Primavera Italian Restaurant, Kamon Japanese Restaurant, Lin-Fa Chinese Restaurant, Spice & Rice Thai Restaurant, City Lounge (coffee, snacks, afternoon tea & evening cocktails), The Pool Terrace ( light meals and refreshing cool drinks by the pool) and the Siam City Bakery Cafe.

I couldn't resist the international buffet at Patummat after the girls showed me the food. There was French, Moroccan, Japanese and Thai food. I had some Morroccan which I didn't like - don't ask me what it was. Had a gorgeous French pepper steak and steamed vegetables, a Thai mango salad and some delicious French desserts.