Maria Poburan

Once again I prepare for a journey across the globe to the world's largest populated country second to China; over 1 billion people live in India, 14 million in Delhi alone - almost half that of Canada.

My 21 one day journey will take me through northern India's cities of Agra, Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, and to some of the many fabulous castles, forts and palaces. Traveling off the beaten track, I will get a first hand glimpse into everyday life in India's villages. A special highlight is 'going back in time' and spending some nights at a number of exquisite heritage hotels, which vary from elegant maharajas' palaces to more simple but equally evocative historic homes. A 3 hour camel trek in the Thar Desert with a night stay in a lavish tented camp and a night in an authentic mud hut.

Share my journey.

Namaste!

November 6th- Delhi

Our hotel is situated in New Delhi in the busy market area of Karol Bagh.Delhi is the capital of India, divided into a historic and a modern part. Old Delhi was the capital of Mughal India from 12th-19th centuries. There are many mosques, monuments and forts relating to this period of India's history. The medieval atmosphere of the bazaars of Old Delhi contrasts sharply with the open, spacious streets of New Delhi - the imperial city created as the capital of India by the British Raj. Our tour takes us to New Delhi including India Gate (a war memorial arch), the impressive ParliamentBuilding and the Rashtrapati Bhavan, once the imperial palace of the British viceroy and now the official residence of the President of India.

November 7th - 8th- Pachewar

We catch an early morning 5 hour express train to Jaipur and continue 2 hours by road to the small village of Pachewar, where we stay in a lovely 300-year-old fort with massive ramparts and large gardens. This fort has been turned into a heritage hotel by the charming Madhulika Singh, the Rajput lady of the house. The simple bedrooms are brightly decorated with local furnishing and there is a dining hall where typical Rajasthani dishes are served. The courtyard extends to lovely lawns and is a wonderful place to relax.

The following day allows for full day to explore the area. The village has a lake, cenotaphs, blue pottery kiln, metal toy makers and interesting surroundings. The focal point is Pachewar Fort - a rambling place with massive ramparts and the place where we stay. We enjoy a guided walk through the village to gain an absorbing insight into rural life in India.

November 9th - Bundi

We drive to 4 hours to Bundi, which has one of the most magnificent forts in Rajasthan that is also famous for its delicate miniatures. This old walled town has many impressive step wells and havelis and has remained relatively untouched by modern developments. It is situated in a beautiful narrow valley, dominated by the imposing 14th century Taragarh Fort - one of the most spectacular monuments of Rajasthan. The climb up to the fort goes through the colourful and friendly bazaar and offers spectacular views over the town and surrounding countryside. It's well worth the effort to climb up just to see the famous murals in the palace, which is within the fortress walls. We stay overnight in a haveli, an old merchant's house, known as Ishwari Niwas. This simple but charming mansion, built around a courtyard, was constructed in the Indo-Saracenic tradition in the 1920s. Ishwari Niwas has been with members of the royal family except for a period when it was a royal guest house. In a sense, that is what it is now, with rooms furnished with local furniture and fabrics.

November 10th - Bijaipur

We drive 5 hours to our next stop, Bijaipur, where we stay a night in Castle Bijaipur. This 16th century castle was converted into a heritage hotel run by the local ruling family. The castle has attractive domes and arched windows and doorways. It offers 24 rooms of varying sizes and decor simply furnished using local materials. There are opportunities to explore the village, lakeside and nearby forts, or go trekking in the surrounding hills. Note: Because of the limited number of rooms at Castle Bijaipur, on occasions we may instead stay a deluxe tented camp nearby, which is under the same ownership.

November 11th - Khempur

A 3 hour drive takes us to Chittaurgarh, probably India's greatest medieval fort, perched in a dramatic city-top setting. Also known as Chittaur, this colossal hilltop fort was the ancient capital of MewarState, ruled by the Sisodia Rajputs. Three times in its long history Chittaurgarh was sacked by a stronger enemy. On each occasion the men rode out from the fort to certain death, while the women committed 'johar' by throwing themselves and their children on to a huge funeral pyre. The immense stretch of Chittaurgarh's walls and ruined palaces therefore relate to sagas of innumerable sieges and heroism. We then continue to Ravla Khempur - a lovely heritage hotel set amidst well-manicured lawns.

November 12th-13th - Udaipur

A 2 hour drive takes us to the famous lake city of Udaipur - one of the most romantic in the world. Set around the vast PicholaLake and dominated by dramatic palaces, this is surely Rajasthan's most picturesque city. High whitewashed houses and narrow, winding alleys gives it an almost medieval charm. We stay in a haveli on the shores of LakePichola.

The following morning we enjoy a sightseeing tour of Udaipur. The huge CityPalace, still the residence of the maharana, is carved out of yellow sandstone and stands on the banks of LakePichola. From here we enjoy fabulous views over the lake and the famous Lake Palace Hotel. The main part of the CityPalace is now preserved as a museum with a large and varied collection of mosaics, glass and porcelain figures, miniatures and paintings. Nearby is the JagdishTemple - a centre of constant activity. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the temple was built in 1651 by Maharana Jagat Singh I. One of the highlights of Udaipur is simply wandering along the narrow lanes of the OldCity, with its whitewashed buildings built on the shores of the lake, and exploring the bazaars in search of souvenirs.

November 14th Narlai

A 4 hour drive takes us to the formidable Kumbalgarh Fort - a 15th century huge stone bastion with 33 kilometres of walls. We continue to Narlai, a small village halfway between Jodhpur and Udaipur. It overlooks a giant 90-metre single rock of granite, dotted with caves and temples. We stay in Rawla Narlai, a 17th century former hunting lodge that has been beautifully restored and now is a charming heritage hotel.

November 15th - 16th - Jodhpur

After a morning walk to the historic temples in and around Narlai, we visit to the superb Jain temples of Ranakpur. Ranakpur consists of a fortified temple complex that was built by the Jains who served in the courts of the rulers of Udaipur. It is one of the biggest and most important clusters of Jain temples in India. The ChaumukhaTemple (or Four-facedTemple), is the main temple in the complex and dates back to the 15th century. Built in marble, this temple has 29 halls supported by more than 1400 pillars, of which no two are alike. In the afternoon we drive on to Jodhpur. Standing at the edge of the Thar Desert, Jodhpur is the second largest city in Rajasthan after Jaipur. The city is dominated by the massive Meherangarh Fort that sits atop a sheer rocky ridge right in the middle of town. The OldCity is still surrounded by a 10-kilometre-long wall, built about a century after Jodhpur was founded in 1459 by the Rajput chief Rao Jodha. The clock tower is a popular landmark in the OldCity. Narrow alleys lead from here to bazaars for textiles, silver and handicrafts. It is a fascinating jumble of winding streets of great interest to wander around.

The following morning visit we explore Meherangarh Fort, a huge impregnable structure that sits on top of a huge rock, surrounded by many miles of walls and a series of seven gateways set at an angle so that armies could not charge them with any success. Past the gates, the fort palace has huge courtyards surrounded by wings of palatial buildings, part of which is now turned into a fabulous museum. From the ramparts of Meherangarh there is a superb view over the houses of the OldCity, many of which are painted blue. We can also see the Art Deco Umaid Bhawan Palace, home to the erstwhile royal family as well being a luxury hotel. Directly at the base of the fort are the markets of the OldCity. Our afternoon is at leisure to do our own exploring.

November 17th - Chandelao

Just an hour's drive away from the bustling city of Jodhpur is the small village of Chandelao. Here we will find no other tourists, so it is a place that offers a great chance to the witness village life intimately, interact with the local community and to learn about the arts, culture and heritage of Rajasthan. We stay in a 300-year-old fort known as Chandelao Garh, which belongs to the Takhur of the village - Praduman Singh. With our support, Praduman has renovated 15 rooms and furnished them with genuine period furniture from his family's own collection. No two rooms are alike and they have been kept as original as possible, except for the bathrooms which are modern. The food is often supervised by Praduman's mother and is wholesome and freshly prepared. He personally escorts our visitors on a village safari. We see the local craftsmen at work including potters, blacksmiths, goldsmiths and weavers. There are three beautiful lakes that offer great bird watching. We can also visit a medieval step-well where the village women, dressed in their traditional attire, come to fetch water.

November 18th - Osian - Camel Safari - Thar Desert

We travel to Osian, an ancient town in the Thar Desert, before embarking on our camel safari. This is the best way to explore the Thar Desert and our overnight safari sees us camping out in the desert - an unforgettable experience! We ride on our camels for approximately three hours and pass by tiny villages that are inhabited by nomadic and pastoral tribes, largely unaffected by modern civilisation. We stay overnight in a remote desert camp outside Osiyan in comfortable en suite tents with bedding provided.

November 19th - Bikaner

We drive via Nagaur and the unique KarniMataTemple at Deshnok to Bikaner, an interesting and colourful town. Bikaner is a desert outpost that was also a major trading centre on the old caravan route from central Asia. The city grew up around the fabulous Junagarh Fort, which is at its centre. The old city of Bikaner has a maze of narrow lanes and some beautifully-carved havelis in red sandstone. We stay for two nights at the Hotel Gaj Kesri.

November 20th - Bikaner

We start our morning tour of Bikaner at Junagarh Fort. Founded in the 16th century and expanded by subsequent rulers, this huge fort contains many stone-carved palace buildings filled with memorabilia that offer an insight into Rajput palace life. The Ganga Golden Jubilee Museum houses an interesting collection pre-Harappan exhibits and terracotta ware from the Gupta and Kushan periods. There are also paintings and musical instruments. During the afternoon we are free to make our own discoveries.

November 21st- Mandawa - The Desert Resort

We drive 4 hours to the desert region of Shekhavati - an important stop on the famous Silk Route, where merchants became rich from the trade with the caravans. Their wealth is reflected in their fine havelis (courtyard homes), covered with flamboyant frescoes. This remote part of Rajasthan, only recently known to tourists, is famous for its painted havelis and colourful frescoes. These havelis belong to the rich Marwari business community. Many of the Marwari merchants have now migrated to other parts of the country and taking their trades with them, but they still return at festival times to their old havelis and visit their families. The frescoes reflect the well-travelled nature of this community as they depict scenes from many different places, including many scenes of everyday life as well as the more familiar religious paintings. We stay overnight in the Desert Resort, in beautiful and luxurious mud-built huts. This charming village is located one kilometre south of town. The walls are painted with auspicious lime paste or rice flour patterns, which are redone daily by women from the village. The mud huts are comfortably furnished and use a lot of local furnishing and crafts for decor. Outside is an azure blue swimming pool that overlooks the rolling sand dunes of Mandawa.

November 22nd - 23rd- Jaipur

We drive another 4 hours to Jaipur - the capital of Rajasthan. With its faded pink buildings, many palaces and vibrant bazaars, Jaipur is one of the most exotic cities in India. Unlike most cities in India, which have developed in a haphazard way, this city was is a planned one. Though it is rapidly expanding and has long ago outgrown the confines of its ancient walls, the Old City of Jaipur is still a fascinating and unique place. Known as the 'PinkCity' because of the colour of these city walls, the street life has to be seen to be believed. With a chaotic mix of pedestrians, bicycles, cars, buses, trucks, camels and everything else besides, it is best experienced by taking a ride on a cycle rickshaw. We take an afternoon excursion to the splendid Amber Fort, located 11 kilometres north of Jaipur. Here we walk up the steep path which leads to a magnificent complex of palaces, halls, pavilions, gardens and temples built over a period of 125 years by successive rulers. We stay two nights in a charming hotel built in traditional Rajasthani style in a quiet residential area.

We start our morning city tour by visiting the CityPalace. This principal residence of the former royal family also houses a museum for textiles, costumes, miniatures, carpets, manuscripts, arms and armour. Nearby is the Jantar Mantar - a stone observatory created by an astronomer king in the 18th century to measure everything from altitude to time and also map the movement of the planets and the stars. The Palace of the Winds (Hawa Mahal) is the pink sandstone facade of a palace with a profusion of windows and stone screens. The windows enabled cool air (hawa) to circulate and the women of the royal zenana would sit concealed behind these screens to see life in the city beyond the walls of the city palace.

November 24th - Agra

On our 5 hour drive from Jaipur to Agra we stop en route 35 kilometres to the southwest of Agra, at the deserted Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri - a complex of forts, palaces and mosques built in sandstone. It served as Akbar's capital for only a short period of 12 years before the capital was abandoned, apparently due to a lack of water supply. Today Fatehpur Sikri is a ghost city, its architecture is in a perfect state of preservation and, wandering through the palaces, it is easy to imagine that this was once a royal residence and a dynamic cultural centre. The white marble Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti, Akbar's spiritual adviser, is now observed as a Muslim pilgrimage spot. Our final destination for the day is Agra - home of the Taj Mahal.

November 25th - Agra - Delhi

(Driving time: approx 5 hours) The Taj Mahal is one of the most fascinating and beautiful monuments of the world. Built in the 17th century by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a tomb and memorial for his wife Mumtaz Mahal, it is a spellbinding sight that never disappoints. No picture or description of this magnificent white marble mausoleum can ever do it justice, and it is worth spending many hours in the gardens that surround the building, to see it from different angles and in different lights. About 20,000 workers were employed in its construction and it was completed after some 20 years. So perfect are the proportions of the Taj and so exquisite its workmanship that this is really one of the world's most marvellous buildings. Later there is free time during which you can visit the impressive Red Fort. Located alongside the YamunaRiver, there are fantastic views of the Taj Mahal from here. The Red Fort was the capital of the Mughal Empire and thus of India during the 16th and 17th centuries. In the afternoon we drive back to Delhi.