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Wednesday 15th September
Waking up super early was starting to get to us, no lie in since we started, so a five o clock alarm was not appreciated I can tell you. Dreary eyed and refusing to get out of bed was probably not the best option as i had promised I'd be ready for six and the Good Earth pick up. A few choice words from TJ and a mad rush and apologies from me and we were on our way to the coach station. This really was the beginning of our travelling, until now we had had everything organised and arranged for us, now it was down to us to tread our own path.As we approached Arusha bus station we soon realised that this was going to start sooner than expected. A mass of people gathered around a variety of different coaches, buses and minibuses, a chaotic scene at such an early time in the morning. Even as our driver showed our tickets a big discussion connected and after much arm waving and shouting the enlarging group finally managed to find our coach (the one we were right next to!). Our driver escorted us over to the coach and we were quite glad of it being the only foreigners around at that time. A mill of people were around the bus and as we approached several were trying to help us with our bags, a few shakes of the head though and they didn't bother us too much. We gave our heavy packs to a couple of guys who were sorting all the baggage, thanked our driver and boarded the coach. Sitting down in our allocated seats we were both a little anxious about our situation and this wasn't helped by one off the baggage people stepping in to talk to us. He made out that we had to pay 5,000 shillings (£2.50) for each bag, questioning it I stated that we had already paid for our tickets. Again this shifty looking character stated that it was extra for bags, against my better judgement I paid. He even paused for more stating extra security which I didn't even respond to, kicking myself for falling for such an easy ruse. We sat there trying to take in all that was happening around us, people were getting on and off the bus, outside people were banging on windows trying to sell everything from watches to hard boiled eggs. Still the shouting and arguing continued until finally at seven on the dot we pulled away heading for Moshi and Mt Kilimanjaro.
Now please don't think of National Express when you conjure a picture of us travelling through Tanzania, even Megabus seems like first class. The coach stopped every so often on the side of the road, tooted it's horn and more passengers clambered aboard. By the time we were at Moshi people were standing in the aisles and a group were sat up at the front on a large mattress fitted around the gearbox! We stopped at Moshi where lots of people disembarked, the usual parade of sellers came to bang on our window, some shoving their produce through the window in a lame attempt to entice us, in fact this happened at every one of the fifty or so stops we made. Interestingly an indian lady and her cute daughter came on board and as they did they gave TJ a warming smile, as she listened in to them talking it indeed turned out they were Gujarati. A new coach load left Moshi for our destination Tanga, TJ's usual travel sleep kicked in almost immediately and I was still cursing being done in Arusha, we had to get more aware if we were going to survive three months.
The journey was incredibly long, the road was good but as I said earlier we were constantly stopping to pick people up. At one point we passed a minibus which had broken down, a little groan could be heard as we pulled over and the stranded passengers squeezed onto our coach. Now let me clarify that this bus was jam packed and I'm a very tolerant person (I think), but everyone was barging past people, the ticket officer was squeezing up and down the aisle and every time he did this I, sitting on the aisle seat, would get someones bum or crotch in my face or worse pressed onto my arm... I'm sure I don't need to describe more! Probably worse than all this was the smell. The Tanzanian women on board all smelt clean and fresh just like people back home, if not better, but the men obviously took hygiene a little less seriously, brushing their teeth and using deodorant being well down on their list of priorities! But we trundled on nevertheless as the numbers dwindled or grew with every stop. TJ had got chatting with the Indian lady, telling her what we were doing and our plan to get to Pangani and the beach resort. Immediately she looked a little concerned telling us that the bus would be getting in at 3:30 instead of the scheduled 12:30, this wouldn't have been a problem apart from the fact the ferry (over the river Pangani) stops at six and the bus would take over two hours to get there. As we travelled on past the Kilimanjaro mountain range we had started to plan an alternative when the lady said she would make some calls for us. It is only after this point that TJ and I both realised the lure of travelling and how you really get to see the good in people (something rarely witnessed in London). This lovely lady made some calls and got chatting to the person next to her of our plight, who offered for her driver to take us the 60km to Pangani, and only for the price of the fuel used to get there and back, half that of the beach resorts taxi estimate. They both said that at Tanga bus station we would be plagued and pressured by taxi drivers so they would have their driver pick us up just outside Tanga to take us to the ferry in Pangani. We were so thankful our minds at ease as the roadside turned from forested mountains to palm treelined fields.
It was a godsend to finally exit the coach after a gruelling nine hour journey, we were parched and hungry but were still a good couple of hour away from our destination. We grabbed our now dusty packs from the coach and said our thankyous with hugs and hand shakes and were soon off, in our air conditioned car, towards the ferry. We passed through Tanga, stopping at an ATM, it seemed a lively, pretty sea-town with wonderful views and a mass of bicycles, the chosen mode of transport. Leaving the town the road then deteriorated again and we soon passed a stopped bus, that and the roads the reason it takes so long. We passed many a palm tree, velvet monkey and fields of Sisal, sometimes burning. Our driver had done this before though and he made light work of the potholed track, getting us there within an hour and in time for the short ferry ride across the river. The ferry proved interesting as we got chatting to one of the ferry operators, he kind of latched in to us after talk if football and waited the other side until our pick up came. The scene was so beautiful with small shacks as stores and children playing on the boat strewn beaches, all coming up to us saying 'muzungu', they were all so friendly. As I gave one of them a lolly I'd been saving he triumphantly paraded around the beach, the others instead of jealous were pleased for him and the rest didn't once come up to ask for one, bless them! We were soon picked up and taken down another dirt road towards the coast. Many twists and turns later we arrived at the beach crab resort, our home for the next two days. We had been expecting it to be nice, as trip advisor had suggested, but we were gobsmacked by the beauty of the place. The resort is owned by a german lady and her husband, it took them four years to build and their exploits were followed by a german documentary. Situated right on the seafront the resort had a lovely dinning/bar area with a games room and beer less than a pound. Our palmed leaved thatched bungalow was just twenty metres from the beach, with ensuite facilities, hot water and some lovely finishing touches it really was a perfect setting. We immediately went to the bar and sat out on the veranda sipping on a well earned drink while watching the night set in above a calm Indian ocean. Over dinner we both agreed that the trip had been well worth it and as we retired to bed, having walked the sandy path back to our bungalow, the gentle sound of the waves sent us to sleep. A crazy day to say the least!
Thursday 16th September
Finally the day we both needed, we did absolutely nothing, it was wonderful. Breakfast was followed by more sleep, be it in our wonderful beach hut or on the pure white sands of Pangani. We had time to read our books and relax watching the occasional Tanzanian riding their bike up the beach. School children hopped and skipped their way to and from class, on an amazingly beautiful and tranquil route. It was great to have a day to ourselves, time to relax and unwind, the food and drinks were wonderful. The Beach Crab was all that a paradise resort should be and we both wanted to stay longer. We were leaving the next morning to catch a boat over to Zanzibar, during dinner as we chatted to the owner she told us about the crossing. I won't go into what she said, but my sleep was full of fearful visions of torrid oceans and creatures from the deep!
Big happy birthday to Dad! Hope you had a good holiday, shame you can't join us on the beach!
Mark & Tejal x
- comments
Dad I think your mother would have had a heart attack on the bus - she doesn't like crowds and especially rude ones. Mind you I think that she would love the beach!!!
Nicki Keep talking to people guys, and don't kick yourself about trying to keep your bags safe Mark. Beautiful writing by the way, really makes us feel that we're there with you.
Dad TJ, Mark I am sorry that I have not been able to write to u Both soon, circumstances? I am so glad U both have enjoyed your journey so far, a wonderful experience. I am too proud for both of u mark thanks for looking after my tejal and reading what you have experienced so far and the way u both have handled I feel relaxed Mark U both r made for each other and I love u both a lot and tejal its unconditionally, regards.
Meera Hey TJ and Mark, I have been reading your blogs for while now!! It seems like you guys are having a blast, am so jealous. Thanks for sharing your wedding dates as I was just asking Mom about them but she was not too sure. We will definitely make it! We were just watching Anish's/ Niti's wedding and it looked fabulous! Can't wait for all the celebrations in the next year!!! Also, I totally understand that Africa was probably a little too hot and buggy for you two..haha..I am glad you are in Sinapore, heard it is amazing!!! Have fun! Lots of love, Meera
Hetal Hi guys, Wow, you guys sound like you're having the most amazing experiences!! Mark, I guess the smell of sweaty mens crotches all comes with the joys of travelling!! Hee hee!! Sorry I've been so rubbish and not been writing to you. I not going to bother with the usual excuses. I really want to see more pics, the ones of Singapore on facebook looked amazing. So jealous of you in that infinity pool! Just to let you know Vaish is walking now. She doesn't seem to sit still, its very cute! Love you guys, take care, call us soon, need to hear my sis's voice..... THE BIG SIS (IN LAW!)
Anjana Dear both, At last I get chance to read your blog! Please put some more photo's on facebook now as u will get chance. Love you both. Mummy Anjana