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Lake Titicaca straddles both Peru & Bolivia. After La Senda Verde we headed to Copacabana, the Bolivian side of the lake.
Isla Del Sol
About a 2 hour boat ride from Copacabana is the Isla Del Sol (Sun Island), a small Island on the lake. After we got off the boat we started the 4 hour walk to the other side as the boat dropped us off at the north end and then picked us up later from the south end - (if you missed the boat back then you were stuck on the island... and we only had 4 hours and a half before the boat left when we started our walk).
We first visited some mayan ruins and then continued along the path to the south. At an elevation of 3800 metres, rushing due to not wanting to miss the boat and a lack of energy the day sort of turned more into a chore than an enjoyable walk. So many hills to walk up... and then down... and then up... and then down again. The scenary, although pretty, was not worth the massive effort. We arrived at the south port with about 15 minutes to spare so we treated ourselves to a very overpriced orange juice. We got on the boat and headed back to Copacabana, where I had freshly caught trout (fried) and chips over looking the lake. A very nice end to a very tiring day.
The next day we headed to Puno, the Peruvian side of the Lake. We crossed the border with no problems and woah we're in PERU!!!! I watched Spurs v Inter Milan in a local pub and decided I was a bad omen as we lost 4-1 haha!!
From Puno, we did a 2 day 1 night home stay on the 3 main islands on the Peruvian side.
We were picked up from our hostel at 8am and transfered to the port where we caught our very comfy boat. After about a 2 hour boat ride we arrived at one of the 65 floating islands, known as the Uros Islands. The islands are literally floating on the lake and are made using natural blocks of reeds, which they tie together for about a month to allow the roots to interwine and keep the blocks together. They then add reeves to the floor to make the basis of the island. We were then invited into one of the homes on the island (There were 6) where we spoke to Cecilia and her 2 children - who had great amusement wearing mine and Lorettas Sunglasses!! She spoke to us about island life (although in truth, we didnt reaaaally understand any of it as she only spoke spanish.. but we got a few things). She then showed us some items she had made which me being the softy that I am obviously bought. A hand knitted cushion cover of the island for 30 Soles (£8). She said it had taken about a month to make and showed us how she made them. We then went on a ride in a traditional boat, made from the same reeves as the island, which was cool. Although it is set up for tourism, I don't feel this ruins the experience as soon as we left they put their stalls away and carried on with their day. The islands get rotated so they al get an equal share of the tourists (and obviously their money) as this is a primary way that they make their living.
We then headed to Amantani Island, our 2nd Island and where we would be staying the night. Here we stay with a Islander to experience their way of life on the island. We stayed with Francesca, aww she was SO cute!!! She cooked us lunch and we then met with the group for a walk to the top of the Island, again at 4000m a small hill turns into a mountain but wow the views were amazing. At the top was a ruin, which if you walk around 3 times anti clockwise you can make a wish each time, hoping they come true....
We then headed back to Francesca, who cooked us dinner (Spanish Omlette) and spoke to her son, who is at University in Puno. After dinner, we headed to a traditional music and dance and Francesca dressed us up in Traditional clothing, a skirt, a top and a scarf, all very bright colours and hand made by her brother. The band were playing tradtional music and we were all dancing tradtional dances... think of the hokey cokey and you've sorta got the right idea - was so much and fun and great to experience typical music and dance evenings from the Island. We could see Francesca was getting tired so we headed back to her house for the night.
In the morning we awoke to a MASSIVE hailstone storm, thunder and lightening type of storm. The islanders set off fireworks to dissolve the hailstones to protect the crops, which deffo awoke the senses at 5:30am!! Francesca was getting so wet as the kitchen was outside to the diniing room, but like all South Americans, they just get on with it... we felt really bad as we were just sat there, so I asked if I could help which "no its ok" replied. English style pancakes were for breakfast, douced in sugar mmmm so good!!! We walked down to the port and said our thank yous and goodbyes (which was quite sad) and got back on our way.
On the way to Taquile, our third Island, the lake was really choppy, swaying from side to side, which was awesome - although caused alot of people to be sea sick. eww..
The island of Taquile was pretty, we walked to the main square on a nice slowly ascending path, and had trout overlooking the lake. We were told about the local traditions, that women are treated with very old fashioned views: at the annual festival the men sit on chairs whilst the women sit on the floor, they have to walk 3 meters behind their husbands at all times and if they have an opinion or idea at a local meeting, they have to whisper it to their husband who speaks outloud and then gains the recognition. Our guide asked if I liked the Island and I replied: Its very pretty, but I would not want to be a married woman here no. Which i still think is a fair assesment of Taquile Island (Amantani Island have very different traditions where the wives are treated with more respect). The men have to wear a hat at all times, a white hat shows the man is single and looking for a wife whilst a full coloured red and blue hat shows the man is married.
We got back on the boat and had a 3 hour boat ride back to Puno, so I sat on the back of the boat and soaked up the sun!!
Overall, we much prefered the PEruvian side of the lake to the Bolivian side, the Uros Islands were my favourite and I loved staying with FRancesca, even with the somewhat awkward silences. I found out they get 30 Soles (7/8 pounds) per person per night, and there are 10 communties that people stay with on different nights, meaning they get about 2 or 3 groups staying with them a month.
Now for the bus to Arequipa. It picks us up from our hostel at 8am and we are told we will have to transfer to a different bus at our 2nd stop, which is annoying. So we get to our 2nd bus stop and the guide says there is a car waiting for you, thinking he is confused we ignore the CAR bit, but WOW we get out of the minibus and there is a brand new saloon car waiting for us. We double check its for us (it is) and we say goodbye to the guide and have a 2 hour chaffaur driven ride to Arequipa. Bloody luxury!! We spend the 2 hour car journey is shock and cant stop laughing. Its only afterwards that we think to ourselves we got in a car in the middle of no-where with a random man, because our bus guide told us to. Whoopsie!!!
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