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Corn Islands, part 2
We've already moved further down through Nicaragua. As the time goes on, it is becoming more and more effortful to write the updates from our travels. Partly because the tiredness is kicking in and somehow there is a sense of the clock ticking faster and faster as we are approaching the end of our journey. Partly because we were too busy having fun recently with new friends. Partly it's because I've lost that initial spark of admiration at the new sights and experiences. The hot, sunny weather has become the norm, the exotic colourful plants and banana plantations don't surprise us any longer, being at the foothills of an active volcano does not cause the adrenaline rush we felt the first time when we saw one from the great distance. We are still mesmerised with sights and sounds of the beautiful birds and, lately, monkeys in the trees, but we have become accustomed to the beauty around us and, I at least, am being less mindful about it all.
However, back on the road...Last time I wrote we were still on the Corn Islands. We spent the last three days back on the big island. We met a few people there, including, extremely surprisingly, Semir's neighbour from Mostar whom he hasn't seen for over 20 years! It just happened that we sat on a bench next to this man.
Having stayed in the low budget hotels for most of our stay, we decided to spend a bit more for the last two nights and treat ourselves to a nicer place. Considering the relatively low standard of the accommodation offered on the islands, we were overall happy with the place. However, on the second night we found a gigantic cockroach in the bathroom, with the antennae the same size of its body. We tried to catch it under a glass, but they are quick! It ran back where it came from and we never saw it again. We found out the next day that these kind of cockroaches are very common at the Caribbean and they also fly. Considering the omnipresence of sandflies, mosquitos, geckos and now the cockroaches, I realise how much of the illusion was the notion of soaking in the comfort of the warm turquoise sea, blue skies and white sandy beaches. In reality, it's too hot and often very humid and the skin always feel sticky and uncomfortable after the swim (unless there is a regular shower on the beach); it's easy to burn because the sun is very strong in this part of the world and there is always something crawling around or feasting on your blood. Still, having viewed both sides of the experience, I would chose again to spend my winters here, rather than in cold, wet and dark London.
With the inevitable comparisons between the islands, here is our top list:
- the beach: big corn, in front of the Arenas hotel
- the snorkelling: big corn
- the bars: little corn, with the exception of a restaurant with a natural pool on the big corn
- the vibe: can't decide. Slower and less intimidating on the little corn, but soon became claustrophobic. More spacious, varied and airy on the big corn, but more prone to being slightly intimidated by some of the locals asking for money, or walking around drunk with a machete and talking about how he slashed his nephew the night before (in one case!)
- the animals: less tourists on the big corn, less people caring for the animals and vice versa on the little corn. It was impossible to enjoy the beauty of the big corn, where there were so many dogs in a really poor condition; there are more foreigners on the little corn and they have also organised the vet to help care for the dogs and cats there. The difference is obvious
- the food: nowhere exceptional, but always prepared fresh from scratch at the island pace, so it was necessary to allow around half an hour after ordering; of course, if the lady was having her own lunch at the time, we first had to wait for her to finish and then to cook for us :) we enjoyed the (rundown) Ron Don, pollo frito and fried plantains
- the drink: Ron, of course! Best new discovery: rum and ginger ale; natural fruit juice with a shot of rum
So, no winner really. Both island were beautiful and we had a good time all in all. On to Granada and Ometepe next.
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