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Itinerary: 4 days at the Big Corn, followed by the same amount of time on the Little Corn, then back to the big island for 2 nights ahead of our flight. At the time of writing this entry, the weather is rainy and windy and the boats are not running. How long is this kind of weather going to last? Don't know. Will we get back in time for our flight? Really don't know!
The boat is actually a panga boat, meaning a much smaller type of the boat than I imagined. Many people wrote about their experience of the boat journey between the islands being a stomach churning one that sends you to the edge. They even sell T-shirts on the small island that read 'I survived the Little Corn panga ride!'. I must admit there was some truth in it; thirty people are crammed in the panga (alotugh 20-25 looks a more realistic maximum capacity) and everyone is asked to wear a life jacket - someone wrote on a forum that their panga capsized, but noone was hurt. I felt the lump rising in my throat as we sat off and started crashing through the waves...but nothing is perfect and we all have to endure a little before being rewarded. In our case the reward came in the shape of a butternut squash - or that is, at least what the map of the Little Corn reminds me of. Only moments from arriving here, we both felt tranquility and found ourselves slowing down (as if it can be any more possible on this trip). No cars, no motorbikes, even the cyclists appear rarely. Just like its larger neighbour, the island is made out of the lush tropical trees and plants, with a swamp dominating the central part. A narrow sandy strip runs around the island and that makes the populated area. There seem to be more tourists than the locals on the island and tourism is more developed than on the Big Corn. We could easily see that in both the people and the animals here. Everyone looks well fed and friendly. We saw a very different picture on the Big Corn and that made the stay there bittersweet. If the place wasn't such a thing of beauty the contrast wouldn't be as stark.
The children coming to the beach and asking for money (I remember one boy in particular, that prompted a long discussion between Semir and me about what his home situation might be like and whose idea is it anyway that he spends his days like this and not at the school?)...desperate looking man, obviously on a large dose of rum in his body, following us relentlessly and asking for money or food...another man trying to get some money out of us based on an obviously made up heart breaking story (only to leave on a brand new bike that was hidden behind the bushes)...and the most painful sight that I don't think will every leave me; a dog that is embodiment of the expression 'only skin and bones'. We fed him several times and went looking around for him for as long as we were there, but will that little bit of food only prolong his suffering? We're finding ourselves facing moral dilemmas one after another.
I'll finish the part 1 of the Corn Islands diary with a rare opportunity to access the Internet once the electricity is up and running in the afternoon, with a glass of Nica Libre in my hand (basically,rum and coke) and enjoying the scent of coconut...it seems someone has just baked some delicious cakes!
To be continued...
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