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Departing Eucla I was 12km from crossing the border into South Australia. Finally I entered a new state. I had checked the weather forecast the night before and it looked good, a tail wind finally! I left early to make the most of the wind and as soon I set off I was flying. I was expecting to get searched at the border, searched for fruit! That's right you are not allowed to take fruit or veg across the border?! I was now cycling parallel with the coast which ran a couple of hundred metres away from me. The views were amazing as the tarmac twisted around the landscape. I was shocked at how fast I was going, at some points I was rolling at 40km an hour. The plan had been to bush camp halfway between Eucla and the Nullarbor Roadhouse but with this wind I decided to go for it and try and do 196k. I put my head down and just listened to the deep roar of my tires as me and the surly sped across the landscape. After 5 hours and 41 minutes I had reached the Nullarbor Roadhouse, I averaged 34.4kmph!!! It was astonishing, I was in a state of cycling ecstasy. I decided to reward myself with a motel room. Just before the Nullarbor roadhouse I passed the official sign for the western border of the nullarbor plain.
The next day to Nundroo I completely ballsed up. I was sat in the roadhouse cafe having some breakfast when I looked at the clock. It said 9am, my watch said 8. I thought the clock must be wrong but next to the clock was a sign saying, yes this is the correct time. I was confused and thought the sign must be wrong as well. Accompanying the sign next to the clock was a further sign declaring, and yes this sign is correct. I laughed in confusion, I had already moved my clock forward. The Nullarbor is so vast that you cross multiple time zones and no one seems to have the correct time. So I left late into the heat and headwinds. After 30k I passed a sign saying, eastern side of the nullarbor plain. My confusion was becoming more regular. What! That was tiny. I Learnt later the actual Nullarbor Plain is only 40k wide. I was slightly disappointed. It was really hot and I was climbing loads of hills. As I slowly peddled up a hillI an approaching car violently and quickly pulled over on my side of the road. I saw the driver run round to the back seats of the car. s***, Is this guy going to shoot me was my first thought. As I got nearer a man was stood at the front of the car with two ice cold cans of coke. s***, is this guy going to try abducting me by enticing me with coke was my next thought. We chatted as we drank the cokes but I still remained suspicious. The coke went down great. I was low on water and I have developed a serious addiction to coke on my ride. I soon reached a tiny outpost called Yalata where luckily I found some biologists filling up there water containers. I asked if they could fill mine and they obliged. Another f***-up I hadn't carried enough water. I sat having a break in the shade. I still had
60km to go and suddenly It dawned on me, I hadn't changed my watch. I now faced the possibility of cycling into Nundroo in the dark. I left quickly and managed to pick up my pace and made it to Nudroo just before dark. I had got complacent on the back of the day before and was really annoyed with myself. Anyway I was now one day away from reaching Ceduna, the end of my Nallarbor journey. I can't really remember the next day to Ceduna, probably because I was bloody exhausted, so these are my notes from my log: Long day. Wind not to bad. Left Nundroo after waiting ages for food! Cloudy and cool in morning, hot in afternoon. Had lunch in Penong, first small town since Norseman. Wasn't sure if I should push on to Ceduna as legs were heavy. Decided to push on to make use of Northerly winds tomorrow. Red Tarmac, s***! Like old tennis court. Road flat. Pulled into Ceduna, felt drained but elated, big win! Guy at fruitily checkpoint, " got any fruit". "just super noodles mate". Got to campsite told another cyclist was here. Guys bike is identical to mine, made me laugh. Had beer with all the grey nomads who had sat round my tent in a big circle. Felt amazing, in a really good mood. Riding with Tavvi tomoz ( the other cyclist).
Even though I had finished the Nullarbor I hadn't finished cycling. I still had to cycle south to Streaky Bay for a rest day. This was my tenth straight day cycling and it was a long day but I got to ride with Tavvi, an Estonian guy. It was nice to have the company for a change. We rode into Streaky Bay and an amazing campsite on the foreshore, the sea was 10metres away. That evening we shared dinner together and some well deserved beers on the jetty.
The Nullarbor is an amazingly diverse place, it's not one massive desert like people tell you. You cross loads of different and amazing landscapes and encounter loads of wildlife along the way. The Nullarbor is a pilgrimage, like route66. I'm so happy that I completed it and that I had done it in 9 days, I had planned to do it in 12. The Nullarbor definitely tested me and rewarded me.
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