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So the end of my trip has finally arrived...seems mad to be writing this from the comfort of Moorend Cottage...can't believe my travels are over so soon!
Thought I had better give you an update on everything that I got up to in my last few weeks in Peru...just so at least the basics are covered before I see you all in person!
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The Inca Trail was simply incredible...I'm not sure quite what I expected from the 4 day hike but I think it surpassed every expectation. Went with a company called SAS who have a great reputation amongst travellers and with good reason. They were fantastic and worth every penny...had a great guide called Raul (aka Mr Puma man) who knew everything and anything about the Incas - being an Inca descendant and coming from an Inca community himself. Our group was also brilliant...there was 17 of us which was alot compared to all the other groups hiking the trail but it made for so much more fun and meant there was far more people to meet and talk to during the hike. Thankfully we had a couple who were a doctor and a nurse with us so I was instantly at ease! (I've been lucky in the fact that everything I've done so far that involves remote situations eg the jungle, Inca trail, salt flats etc there's been a English speaking doctor about...it always makes me feel a bit more relaxed!)
First day of hike wasn't too strenuous, it rained for the first two hours but I was prepared with waterproof trousers, a bright blue poncho and plastic bags over my trainers (yes folks...thats right...I did the Inca trail in a pair of nike running shoes...and they were comfortable the whole way - who needs walking shoes!) and was armed with an authentic walking stick to aid me on my journey (well it added to the Inca image anyway and I have, of course, brought it back to England with me - it made it through airport security and everything!). The food was amazing...it was mind blowing what the porters could achieve with such limited facilities...three 3 course meals a day of really fresh, delicious food...definitely what we all needed to refuel and charge us for the next hikes. For our group of 17 we had 20 porters, each carrying a weight of 23k on their backs...it was amazing watching them work...they would hurry by us along the trail and by the time we arrived at camp or lunch stops would have tents pitched, food served (in a dining tent), bowls of hot water and soap for us to wash with etc etc...I felt really bad watching them work - its kind of heartbreaking knowing that the tourist industry is what makes these guys have to work such tough jobs but I was assured that they love their jobs...either way my guilt ensured I left them a hefty tip.
Second day was much harder....SAS were brilliant as they made us walk further on the first day so we had less of the really hard section to do on the second day. It also meant we were ahead of all the other groups by at least an hour. Despite the rumours that the trail is packed I hardly saw any other groups during my whole trek...while there's 500 passes a day issued (and filled - the Inca trail is currently fully booked until August!) for the Inca trail only 200 of them actually go to tourists and the other 300 to the porters, so it's not as many people on the trail as one may think.
The second day includes walking the Dead Womans Pass - it was really hard going but the sense of achievement at the top was fantastic and I was proud to say that I even caught up with the porters and was the first person in my group (along with Ash and an Aussie called Cookie) to make it to the top. There was still quite alot of walking for the rest of the day via various Inca ruins but we finally arrived at camp about 5 (We'd set off that morning about 7). As there's no electricity and all the porter's sleep in the communal tent bedtime is pretty early - about 9:30 - I can't get to sleep this early but it was freezing so I spent alot of time devising various ways to keep warm - I was grateful for the huge ammounts of Alpaca hats,gloves, scarfs etc I had purchased before the trek!
Day three was mainly downhill....sounds easy but after 5 hours my knee's were knackered - I was very glad for my stick! We were at a more established campsite for the final night and there were even showers but I wanted to prove I could do the Inca trail without a shower so just washed my feet in a bowl of water - needless to say I ensured my hat stayed on my head the whole time - my hair was not a pretty site!
Day four we woke up at 4 am to get to the 'sungate' for sunrise...its pretty cloudy when you get there but the clouds clear to reveal the mindblowing Inca ruin's of Machu Picchu. The hidden Inca city was something else...its amazing learning all about why the Inca's built it and how etc (I'll let you do your own research!). We had a 2 hour tour of the city and then had the option to climb another mountain for incredible views over the lost city...only a few of us from the group did this...and it was hard after already having hiked for 4 days but so worth it!
After the Inca trail spent next day recovering in the lovely city of Cuzco before catching a really nice overnight bus to Arequipa. Nice city but we were straight on a bus that same day we arrived to the fantastic village of Cabanaconda where we could access hikes to the colca canyon. The village was a slice of rural peru...very traditional with very few tourists but the locals were so so friendly. Hostel was predictably very basic (and freezing cold) but had nice 'restaurant' with big wood burning stoves and candles to keep us warm. Met some lovely german girls and a English/Aussie couple who we trekked down the canyon with the next day.
The Colca Canyon was stunning...took us about 3 hours to trek down where we chilled out at the oasis pools for about an hour before trekking back up.
This was not a good idea...it wa boiling hot and a steep climb for 2.20 hours...me and Ash nearly fainted more than once due to the heat but made it in record time...it takes most people about 4 hours! Saw some condors as well which was amazing...they are enormous birds and really graceful...we managed to avoid paying some tourist tax as well to go and see them so we were very pleased!
Back to Arequipa the following day..this bus was a bit more enjoyable than the one we'd taken on the way to the canyon...that had involved 6 hours of Peruvian music on the bumbiest road ever jampacked with locals...we even saw a baby alpaca being put into the luggage compartment on one bus like ours!
Met a guy who we'd been travelling with in Cuzco on way to Arequipa and ended up travelling with him and the two German girls for the next few days.
Had overnight bus to Nazca to fly over the Nazca lines the day we arrived in Arequipa from the Colca Canyon (I hope you're all following this ok...we covered alot of group in a short amount of time so its probs a bit confusing as to where we are going...
simply it was:
- Inca trail
- Arequipa
- Colca Canyon
- Arequipa
- Nazca
- Ica/Huccachina (tiny oasis town)
- Pisco (volunteer work for earthquake)
- Lima)
Unfortunately...despite going upmarket for our very last bus together (Ash leaves earlier than me back to the UK) we got food poisoning off some dodgy beef. I suspected it was dodge and had stopped eating it so wasn't too ill but Ash had been adament it was fine...she was violently sick the next day and we had a flight booked over the Nazca lines.
The lines were amazing..went up in a 5 seater cesna plane which was brilliant...had really clear day as well so could see the lines perfectly. Ash mainly saw her insides through a clear plastic bag but I had pictures to show her!
That afternoon got a bus to Ica and a taxi to a tiny oasis town called Huccachina (population 200) which is in the middle of some vast sanddunes....was a place to finally relax. Gorgeous sunshine, a nice little pool and a good hostel. Had a great crowd including 2 Irish lads (the Irish are everywhere and are always up for a party). Stayed here for 3 nights...went sandboarding and sandbugging - includes going down sheer dune drops at silly speeds in a little sand buggy...so so so much fun! Everyone had to get to Lima for flights before me so left after 2 nights but I stayed on an extra night and went wine tasting with the Irish guys...I'd had a really bad tummy for the past few days (my relationship with a toilet has never been so close) so was dubious about going but armed with my loo roll I decided alcohol could do me no harm...consumed far too much alcohol (they give you a big glass to try your wines in and about 10 different types at each place...and we went to 3 different wineries...got to crush the grapes with our feet, dance with the locals etc etc was fab. Followed by a trip to a chocolate factory which was the perfect ending. My tummy wasn't better but I do think the 45% Pisco temporarily helped! Cost us £5 quid for each for 5 hours and the taxi ride (our taxi driver was also our guide and DJ!)...bargin!
Met two really nice English girls the next day who advised me that it was equally tranquil and sunny up the coast so I decided to move on up to a town called Pisco which I had heard had been ravaged by an Earthquake last August...I kind of expected it to be getting back to normal by now but I was very wrong. It was shocking...it looked like the pictures you see on the news of Iraq etc...people were living in tents, roads were rubble, house destroyed etc. I arrived at the first hostel which was like a slice of luxuary in the middle of this disaster, however, it was well out of my budget and a bit far away from the centre (I learnt upon arrival that Pisco is one of the most dangerous places in Peru)...thankfully spotted a guy (Iwan) I'd travelled with a few days previously who was biking his way around Peru and he helped me find some cheaper accomadation. Was very dubious looking but was pretty near the town so stayed. This is a long story so I'll cut it short...but basically ended spending the next few days working with a NPO called 'Burners without Boarders' doing Volunteer work in Pisco. Fanastic worthwhile experience where I met some great people and did some great things...this is the only organisation, mainly run by travellers, in Pisco helping people...the government of Peru have pretty much given up. With no equipment etc Burners work takes a hell of a lot longer than it would back here in the UK...for example I helped knock out some concrete foundations of a fallen house that a man needed moved in order to rebuild his house for his family...it took me and 4 grown guys a day to pick axe and chisle through about 2 m...it would take a machine minutes! Its gunna take so long for the city of 23, 000 people to even begin to resemble its former self. Crime rate is sky high as well...we weren't allowed to visit the beach at all as its so dangerous (when I was there 4 columbian tourists got raped on the beach), and there were strict rules about not going to certain bars etc. Got bitten alive by mossi's here as well but I guess it was all in the name of a good cause!
For my last day in Pisco I visited the Ballesta Islands (nicknamed the poor mand gallapagas)...my intial reason for going to Pisco before getting sidetracked! Saw lots of sealions, penguins and even some dolphins!
Last stop on travels was Lima...capital of Peru and stark constrast from where I'd just been....its like a typical capital city..I was staying in Mirafloras which is the backpacker and also nicer area to stay which had typical things such as enormous Maccy'ds, Starbucks, Burger King etc etc. Stayed in lovely friendly hostel and met some lovely people to hang out with and see the Lima sights for my last few days.
Flight back to Heathrow was fine...managed to blag a seat at front of cattle class so had loads of leg room...unfortunately the dodgy tummy has got worse so I was pretty ill for the journey but at least I knew I was coming home!
And so...the journey is over (until next time)...it seems I've hardle been away...the only reminder being some alpaca clothes, mossi bites and the dodgy tummy that has now burdened me for 6 weeks!
I'm slowly putting together a little photo silde show to show you all but in the mean time feel free to come and see me anytime...I'd love to bore you all with plently more travelling stories (m&d will probably be relieved - I think I'm boring them already!) and, of course, hear all about your lives over the past 6 months!
See you all soon...lots and lots of love xxxxxxxx
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