Days 3-7 - Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur, Octop**** /p>

First of all, let me assure you all that Louise is alive. Despite the odd hairy moment in the back seats of various auto-rickshaws (one of which actually had a hairy back seat), we have so far survived one week in the urban jungles of Rajhastan and Uttar Pradesh. (NB: Uttar Pradesh was more of a jungle due to the quantity of monkeys).

After Delhi, we travelled on 06/01/09 to Agra in Uttar Pradesh, a massive state to the east of Delhi. We intended to get the train, but when attempting to arrange the journey on the intended day of travel, our driver laughed us all the way to the nearest tourism office. Good tip for anyone visiting India: arrange all long journeys, be they by rail or air, at least 48 hours in advance. Anyway, it transpired there was no way we were getting a train that day, but we did manage to secure a driver to Agra. It was a bit more pricey, but anything to get out of Delhi - even if just for some fresh air.

Agra came as quite a shock. The Taj Mahal is the town's most famous allure, and we approached with ideas of grandure for the surrounding suburbs. The reality is completely converse.

Don't get me wrong - the Taj Mahal (literally 'Crown of the Palace', for anyone interested) failed miserably to disappoint. After wading our way through marauding beggars and salesmen (all children) in the run up to the entrance, we were accosted by security guards who insisted that, although I could take my camera, mobile phone and flint inside, my iPod, phone charger or dictaphone were too hot for the Taj. Feeling completely harassed, I felt the Taj Mahal had better pull something seriously special out of the bag to win me over. And it did. Of all the momuments, statues, and historical buildings I have seen worldwide, nothing compares to seeing the Taj Mahal in real life.

It is too big. The very idea that it could have completed in 1653 (there are 16 gardens surrounding it, and 53 fountains in the pools leading up to it) seems so adverse, if our local university guide had tried to assure me it was planted by aliens at some point I would have been willing to take his word for it and fight anyone argued the opposite. At the time of building it cost a staggering $40million (US). Anyone visting should also take a rickshaw accross the river and view it from behind. The reflection in the water is indiscribably beautiful, and it's a really good alternative for anyone on a tight budget who doesn't want to pay the Rs 750/- (about 10 UK pounds) to get in.

However, the momument has a massively detrmiental effect on the surrounding city of Agra. The money raised through the tourism it creates impacts very little on the people of Agra. In fact, poverty is rife, and to see families adorning the sides of nearly every road juxtaposed against such a spectacular backdrop as the Taj Mahal is all the more difficult to come to terms with. Speaking with a local rickshaw driver, Jamal, he told us that industry was banned in Agra in order to protect the Taj Mahal from pollution, and that inhabitants of Agra made a living doing handicrafts instead. "A citizen of Agra must be born here," he revealed, somewhat proudly. The sad reality seems, however, that anyone not born in Agra is unlikely to want to stay too long.

We moved on to Jaipur on 08/01/09 by night train. Sleeper trains are amazing. There's a lot to be said for being rocked to sleep aboard a train wending its way through the rock sculptures that sit beside the railway line between Agra and Jaipur. Not that we could see them, it being the middle of night. But we knew they were there and let our imaginations run wild all the same. Jaipur is much like Delhi, just not so polluted, crowded or busy. It would be a good gateway city to anyone not wishing to jump in feet first to Indian culture.

However, despite injecting a much needed dose of westernised modernity into our travels, Jaipur has not left a massive impression. Perhaps the best part was the hostel we stayed in, 'The Explorer's Nest'. Seriously, all visitors to Jaipur should make this their place of abode, as long as you can stand a hard matress. It's right in the centre of the city's humdrum, but set back far enough from the main streets to provide some peace and and quiet.

The real highlight, though, was eating in style. That's right: Indian McDonalds! OK, OK. So we fill those British tourist boots all too deftly. But hear us out; we were intreagued. You see, in India practically nobody eats or sells beef. How then, I hear you say (as did we) does McDonalds work? Well, the Big Chicken Maharaja Mac should answer that question! Furthermore, the menu from which you choose the Big Chicken Maharaja Mac wasn't just any old menu, oh no. It was the McDonalds 'A La Carte' menu! (I have pictorial evidence).

I should also point out the supermarket around the corner from our accomodation whose slogan was: "Buy one, get one!". With deals like that, who could refuse?

So, the final destination of our final week is Udaipur, from whose 'Panorama Guesthouse' I am currently writing this entry. It is easily the best place we've visited so far. There are very few monkeys to rival Agra's thriving population, but the ubiqitous traffic jam causing cows and lazy dogs who'd give Buddy a run for his money are everywhere. But aside from these staple additions to India's streets, there is little else to compare Udaipur to the other cities we have visited so far.

The city reveals its charm on two levels (literally). Its winding alleyways and side streets filled with restaurants, guesthouses, street stalls, cows and art schools resemble Salzburg more than they do Delhi, and are fun just to get lost in. We stumnbled upon a Tibetan market having taken a wrong turn. For all we knew, we'd actually trudged into Tibet. But the real treat is in the numerous rooftop restaurants with their panoramic views of the beautiful city. Bit of trivia: it's where Octop**** was filmed. Our only regret is that we can't stay longer; we leave for Goa tomorrow morning.

Good news is, the weather's finally turned hot. Well, I say good news, but it sort of turned quite suddently at about 1pm this afternoon when I was alredy out and about and my nose was devoid of any kind of sun-tan lotion. Sad times.

James