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Kerala 3rd December 2009 - 3rd January 2010
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL
Hi all sorry its been ages - been busy and not much time on the net! Too many places to see and people to meet! Jen has kindly managed to get some photos loaded up for me from first part of my trip - so if your bored have a look!
Started and ended my Keralan journey in Fort Cochin - a very (non Indian!) touristy place full of colonial buildings, little tea shops, fish restaurants, chinese fishing nets and designer and handicraft shops and hundreds of westerners! Has a very british/portugese/dutch feel to the place - with a twist of South Indian and a lot of heat!
Few days here enjoying the peace - took a Keralan cooking class amd learnt how to cook fish curry, sambar, dosas and chapatis (dont expect any when i get back though as i am now craving western food! :-)
Had a day out on the backwaters which was amazing - on a punted canoe travelling through small canals meeting locals that live on and off the water - saw how coir rope is made and all the many uses of coconuts and many spices and fruits. Thaali on a banana leaf for lunch and punted country rice barge driting down the Vemband lake for the afternoon - so peaceful and lots of wildlife
Kerala is traditional for Kathakali - ritual Theatre. Men dress up in crazy/colourful costumes and very bright amazing make-up. The performance is all in mime and based around gods and demons. All a bit crazy but great fun and they have put on tourist shows where you get to see the make up being applied first and then an abridged version of the normally 8 hour performances!!! that start at 10pm - not sure i could sit through the whole night. (Maybe something for International Theatre at the YV - now im not a DM!!!)
Kalarippayat ia an ancient Keralan tradition of Martial Arts training and another performance they put on for tourists. These guys are amazing - so strong and its all a bit dangerous- but great to watch.
Kumarakom - had a few days staying near the backwaters - beautiful place full of wildlife, little canals and rice barge houseboats and full of 5 star resorts that seemed to have taken over the land - and the only way to get views of the lakes is to stay in one (for the cheap sum of 300 - 1000 pounds a night!) I was staying in a homestay where the staff of one of these resorts were living!! Or sneak in for a beer - which is what i did!
Viswardassanam - Pathanamittha
Spent 2 weeks doing some volunteer work at a biodiversity centre. Living with a family who had set up the centre 25 years ago to basically live a simpler, more sustainable life and to provide a place to teach local people about simple, more environmentally friendly living. They have been working with 250 government schools and through the money from volunteers are encouraging the children to set up eco clubs. So all good stuff and a breath of fresh air to be with people in India who seem to actually care about the environment! Especially after travelling around the country and seeing the horrendous pollution and the huge amounts of rubbish everywhere.
So i was there to help do some gardening and maintenance work and it seemed just chill as it was all very laid back (a little too for me!!) but nice o have time enjoying the wildlife, reading and eating veg curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner!
Visited a couple schools which was great - so disciplined over here - had to sit through a few hours of Malaylam (local language) so had no idea what was going on - so when i was told i had to make a speach and inaugurate the session about 2 seconds before it was a little scary!! Felt very guilty when i was given presents - especially from a poor school - so lovely though - as is the Indian way.
Christmas was very strange - nice - but strange - we had chicken curry (that was the treat!) and once we had eaten apparently that was Christmas over with! It was nice all of us eaing together as usually Umesh and I were served by his wife Janee who didnt eat with us - as seems to be traditional over here. Nice being warm though - feels very strange that England is so cold - sorry guys sending you some Indian warmth - all 33C of it!
Was staying in a very rustic little cottage so many little creatures would come in and say hello every day (or rather scare me) huge cockroaches, slugs, frogs, centipedes. huge spiders, mosy's and many other things to keep me entertained - even had a human version snooping around shining a torch in my room middle of the night - bit scary as no windows - we think it may have been curiosity from one of the locals - how do westerners sleep!!!
Leart a lot about family lifeand local and national culturewhich was interesting - and obviously sharing western traditions too. The family are at present looking for a bride for their son so that was interesting to hear about.
Periyar Tiger reserve
Didnt see any tigers or elephants but had a great trek through the jungle and bamboo raft on the huge lake - we also had an armed guard with us! Apaprently the elephant dung we passed was 2 hours old! and we were near a tiger - but a day late! Never mind we sam monkeys, deer, bison and lots of birds - and it is a beautiful place.
Visited a spice plantation - so many spices and fruit - even saw purple chillis and aubergines that looked like bananas!
Spent New Year back in Cochin with afriend had met in Kaimpong and back in Cochoin - so nice to have some company. New Years Eve consisted of hundreds of Indian men in big groups heading to a small beach where they apparently set fire to Father Christmas (how could they?) ad then fireworks at midnight! We didnt venture as far as the beach as crowds too big - and when you are surrounded by hundreds Indian men that all think any western woman is fair game - its best to keep away! All places selling booze closed at 10.30pm!
Dry Christmas and New Year!!!
New Years day was fun as they had a carnival through the streets - lead by a huge elephant and then lots of people in fancy dress - many drag queens, dragons, tigers, soldiers, michael jacksons, egyptians, pilgrims, strange looking creatures and all sorts - bit different and very colourful.
Having a great time - leave India on 13th January so enjoying the last few days i have in this amazing, crazy. country that i still cant get my head around!!
Back in UK on 17th Feb now so will see you all soon :-)
- comments
Silke Hello Lou, Happy New Year to you. Been following your blog. Looks like you have had an interesting time. Very nice photos. I hope you will enjoy the rest of your time. Stay safe. Best wishes for now and 2010, Silke & Thomas. P.S. Do you know a Gwen Orr, theatre manager in Edinburgh and previously in London? Also our neighbour's daughter.