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(Susi) Hadrian's Wall that is! Yesterday was an epic adventure, and something quite different from the other days of our journey so far.
We spent the night in a tiny little place between Hexham and Haltwhistle, called Once Brewed, very close to the site of some of the best ancient Roman "remains." After a fortifying English Breakfast, we set of around 10am for a day of trekking through the countryside.
From our Hostel we walked about 2 km to Vinolanda, which was a Roman fortress built in the 2nd century. It was a fairly large complex at one time with barracks, baths (ofc, they're Romans!) a command building, stables, special house for the commander, granaries & workshops all enclosed by a wall. Outside the wall was a village with a tavern, and other shops. It is an ongoing excavation site and they estimate it may take up to 200 years to fully excavate everything. Wow...
We were very awed by the discoveries and the museum, especially the tablets (see Lori's entry or google Vinolanda). It is incredible to walk among the remains of the walls and to imagine the bustle there must have been almost 2,000 years ago.
After eating our sack lunch at Vinolanda we set off down a little road and some public footpaths. About 3 km to Housesteads, largely along little tracks cutting through fields, following the little marker posts. There were several sheep that looked at us curiously, and a couple of calves in one place that skittered nervously off the trail as we approached. We enjoyed the animals but it did mean extra caution was necessary in choosing where to step.
At one point the trail went up a lane past a farm house, and through a back gate across their field. Here we even had some lovely red hens cackling the latest gossip to each other as we passed. I couldn't make out what they were saying because British hens seem to use a different dialect... Unfortunately as well, there was a very boggy & muddy part that we had to pass to get through the gate... Try as we might we could not avoid a mud baptism, and our walking shoes still bear the souvenir...
Finally arrived at Housesteads, a large Roman fort built right into the remains of Hadrian's wall, quite well excavated, and set on a hill with impressive views. After walking around the ruins for a bit we set off for the final leg of our trip - the walk west along the wall back to Once Brewed.
For the first 1/2 km or so we were able to actually walk ON the wall. I can't begin to say what an awesome experience this was. After that the trail continued beside the wall, up and down steep hills. The views from the top were amazing and would have given the Romans early warning of any naughty Picts trying to get too close.
Every mile of the wall they built a "mile castle." I had first understood this to be just a mileage marker, when in fact it was a mini fortress, large enough to house 12 soldiers. We passed the remains of 3 of these on our trek.
One of these milecastles was built right at the top of a craggy cliff, with the wind blowing and it was quite blustery, albeit a warm September day. I wondered how the poor Roman soldiers felt who had to patrol the wall in the cold British winter, and then come back to sleep in the cold stone fort! Brrr...
The trail along the wall went up and down and then back up again. Several parts were fairly steep, but stones had been carefully placed into the trail like scattered steps. For part of the trail we were on the north side of the wall, and there was sometimes a sheer cliff beside us, which we careful not to get too close to, and at one point I almost felt a bit dizzy looking over the edge... And we were walking into the setting sun, which made us feel even more like brave and daring adventurers. (Ok... we both have good imaginations!)
And every now and then we would remind each other how awesome this was, and to touch the wall again, just because it was there, and because we could.
The final crest was over a very high crag, and from the top we couldn't see how we were possibly going to get down, as it seemed to be almost a sheer cliff face. But there was the trail, leading us carefully down, through some very steep switchbacks, where we picked our way carefully down the stone "steps."
Finally we were back at the trail leading away from the wall back to Once Brewed, walking the final km in the twilight, weary and a bit sore, but very content. And ready for a hearty dinner at the Twice Brewed Pub next door. I decided I had even earned a dessert (chocolate!) that night.
Final tally for the day: 20.1 km. :-) It was epic.
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