Hi Guys,

Thanks for the messages. I have been getting some very strange looks sat here laughing to myself about Val and about Kedren's running attempts. I would have replied to you but email is being a bit odd today (gareth has nipped to the bank to change the rather large notes we got out of the ATM into something slightly smaller than a porters annual wage for when we head into the hills). So as promised I thought I would update you on what we have been up to in Kathmandu the last couple of days.

On Monday we went to the Durbar Square which is as the name suggests a square full of temples and monuments and is one of the 7 world heritage sites in the valley. We had a wander round and had the honour of seeing a living Goddess....this is a very strange custom whereby they gather together a lot of local girls of 4 or 5 who fit the physical characteristics of a Goddess. They then put them in a room and play loud music and dance in scary masks and see which child stays calm (like a Goddess would). The chosen girl is then locked away in the palace and only comes out a few times a month (I told you we were honoured). This is her way of life until she either has her first period or loses a lot of blood from an injury and she is then forced to retire and make way for a new Goddess.

Yesterday we went to another Durbar Square in nearby Patan. This one was much more beautiful and had a fantastic museum about Hinduism and Buddhism. The place was pretty quiet but we were joined by a group of Buddhist Monks aged between 10 and 20 complete with their crimson and gold robes and rather bizarrely Crocs...every single one of them was wearing them in bright colours. In the afternoon the weather turned and there was some really grey clouds and lots of thunder so we did what any self respecting Brit would do and went to the Zoo. It had quite a lot of animals including hippos, rhinos, tigers, leopards and elephants but both the animals and their enclosures looked a bit worse for wear. We spent rather longer than planned watching the Hippos because the heavens opened and we, and pretty much everyone else in the zoo, had to shelter. We jumped in a taxi home which would have been OK had Gareth given him the right directions. Instead we ended up at a dead end about 300 metres from the hotel and with me still unable to make a run for it and wearing a white shirt I was less than impressed when we got back absolutely drenched to our room.

Today we have been to Swayambhunath, a Buddhist temple affectionately known as Monkey temple, which had some great little shops and the 260 or so steps up their made for a great view over the city and good training for tomorrow. Oh my god even as I type I can't believe we are going tomorrow. We are so far from being well and fit like we should be, but as all transport grounds to a halt on Saturday in anticipation of troubles during the election it is now or never. So it's now and we are off to stock up on some last minute supplies then pack our bags.

Remember (especially Mums) don't worry no matter what the news is showing about Kathmandu we will be OK in the hills and the most we will see of the Maoists is paying them a 'donation' on the way round.

So we will speak to you all in about three weeks, no doubt a little more tired but a lot more fit.

All the best

Laura and Gareth