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As with all my adventures, York proved to be just as eventful... on so many levels.
James and I took off around 8:30am on Saturday and headed up toward the north of England. Aside from the usual road trip pit stop for bathroom/drinks/doritos, we had one other brief pull-over when a rather large brown spider decided to make its introduction across my thigh as we were driving through the town of Rugby (yes, where the famed sport was born). Despite James' valiant attempts to find said stow-away after it had skittered with supernatural speed underneath my seat, we had to admit defeat and press on. In the meantime, a radio station was playing a marathon of MJ songs, so we had a great time dancing and singing our way up the busy motorway (somewhere between "Annie, Are You Ok" and "Thriller" the little hairy beast popped up on James' headrest, and I found a creative use for the "They Might Be Giants" cd case), giddy from the heat and Liquorice Allsorts .
We made it to York about 12:00 and spent the day finding our way through a maze of cobblestoned medieval streets and Roman walls. We discovered the entrance to a Roman bathhouse, excavated beneath an old pub. York was founded by the Romans in AD 71, and much of the old city lies beneath the streets that tourists and locals alike stroll through today. James and I both delighted in the history that literally lay beneath our feet. We explored old churchs, reciting the worn inscriptions on graves, crossed over bridges, and drove around the old Roman wall that still encloses the city on four sides. We ate bread and tapenade in a little cafe next to York Minster, licked ice cream cones in a sweet shop in the Shambles, sipped tea next to the park, and peeled back pink and white fondant icing from petit fours from Betty's famous cafe. On Sunday, we heard the bells of York Minster beckoning all to service, so we sat in the back and listened for a while as the hymns of the choir echoed off the cool stone of the vaulted ceilings. Later, we returned to tour the undercroft and crypt, where remnants of history had unearthed themselves from Roman, Norman, and Saxon periods.
Our final adventure was to climb 267 steps up the tower of York Minster to be awarded amazing views of York and the moors beyond. I had attempted such treks in St. Paul's Cathedral in London and Blarney Castle in Ireland, so I didn't think this one should be any different. For some reason, my psyche thought differently - somewhere on about the 50th step in a series of dim, twisting stone stairs that allowed only one person at a time, I began to experience my first real bout of claustrophobia. I'm not sure what brought it on, (the darkness? The endless steps above and below? The lack of exit?) but knowing that James and I were at the front of a line of people behind us only made it worse because my slowing would only slow them as well. We made it to the first landing (109 steps up)that over looked the city (for some reason, heights don't bother me!) and I probably should have just allowed everyone else pass me and headed back down, but no. I didn't. I stupidly thought, "I'm halfway there, I should just keep going." Yeah, not the best decision ever made. I just kept stopping, trying not to throw up. James took my handbag, and with a mixture of pity ("take your time, babe") and realism ("You really don't have much choice"), he coaxed, prodded, and talked me up those last 158 steps until I emerged pale, sweating, and shaking. But rewarded with amazing views of the city.
Once I had recovered enough to let go of the metal wiring that kept people from falling off the top of York Minster, James and I made our way back down. In the car, we decided to make the most of our trip home by stopping in the Peak District. We had seen a place called Milldale online, with beautiful pictures of streams and stone bridges. It was even better in person. We spent a good hour walking the footpath along the stream as the grassy hills and crags towered over us. It was such a peaceful way to end a very busy weekend.
The last few days have been quiet - we've visited a few neighboring villages and made dinner at home. But that will soon change! Tomorrow marks the beginning of my birthday extravaganza - James is taking the day off work and we're going to visit Jane Austen's house (be still my heart!) and then Stonehenge before meeting his family for dinner at a bistro in Chipping Norton. Then on Friday, we are heading up to the Lake District for the weekend! We've been planning this trip for months - it should be full of Wordsworth, Beatrix Potter, steam trains, and a few surprises! Can't wait!
I'll try to get some pics up soon - Cheers!
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