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Mumbai to Sydney
I left Mumbai in the usual hurry, late for the night bus again due to my determination to spend my last day cramming in as many of Mumbai's sights as possible (this could also be described as purely ticking sights off the list due to my speed at getting round them).
I started by getting the train (best way to travel in the city, hanging out of the train tour taking in the surroundings!) up to Dobhi Ghats, Mumbai's giant human laundry. An amazing sight, especially surrounded by the modern skyscrapers hundreds of men working away washing the city's laundry all by hand using the Indian technic of slapping the clothes on concrete to get out the stains. It is no suprise after seeing this that alot of my clothes have come back with a slightly battered look to them! However extremely clean!
After this I hopped back on the train and headed to the Gandhi museum, travelling India I have noticed that every city has a dedicated museum, over the last few months I have seen where he lived under house arrest (Pune) where his wife and secretary died (Pune), where he stayed in Delhi and was murdered and now where he spent his time when in Mumbai. Had a few of the normal bits (his bedroom, desk etc) and some interesting corrospondance with various UK and US presidents as well as a letter to Hitler pleading him to re-think starting the war.
With a couple of hours left and still a few sights to see I headed along to the Pensinula, the exclusive Malabar Hill area which gave great views across the bay and back towards Chowpatty beach. After a quick Chai with the locals I walked up to the Hanging Gardens, a bit of an oasis in the middle of the city before heading to one of the holiest places in the whole city, the bathing ghats complete with a pole in the middle, suposedly where Rama shot an arrow down to earth to kill some enemy or other! Lots of the usual Ghat goers, monks and other men washing and praying, definately the most surreal setting, hidden amongst the many skyscrapers!
NIghtbus to Hospet was the usual night bus experience, my favourite bit is the stop at 10pm at some roadside joint for 'dinner' and chai, this time I went to "Dosa City" and grabbed some Idli and coconut chutney and of course the obligatory chai.
Arriving in Hospet at 7am to be greeted by the usual gaggle of tuk tuk drivers, jumped in one for the short journey out to Hampi village. Not sure what I was quite expecting from Hampi, had seen many pictures of the beautiful temples but I soon realised this was only half the attraction. The landscape is unlike any I have seen in India, giant bolders for as far as the eye with the blue river cutting through it all complete with the brightest green paddyfields. Small, unexpected temples carved into the rock all over, definately plenty of photo opportunities!
Got the boat across the river, to go by road entails a 30km round trip as there is no bridge for miles. Splashed out to get a hut with the best sunset view across the paddy fields complete with swinging hammock, definately the most relaxing place I have stayed so far and a complete contrast from the madness of Mumbai.
The whole village had a very backpacker feel to it, lots of fisherman pants, dreadlocks and 'world' menus.
Spent the next week exploring the temples and area by foot and bike, the main Vipussa temple was stunning especially at sunset and the restored elephant stables looked suprising well kept for an Indian monument! Spent some time up at the resoviour, diving off the rocks, and tubing down the rapids. Only later found out there were actually crocodiles in the water, ignorance is luckily bliss! Had the best Indian food just outside of the village made fresh by a little lady, great samosa, banana balls all cooked over an open fire fuelled with sticks. One day I think we went back for every meal and still spent less than a pound each. My one complaint about Hampi (and India in general) is the lack of Indian Tonic Water, was expecting an abundance, but when asking for it in a local shop usually just recieve a blank or confused look before a bottle of sprite or coke was pushed across the counter at me. With this in mind we had to create a new accompanyment to Gin... so the Hampi Sunset cocktail was born, Honey, Lime, Soda and Gin...definately made up for the lack of Tonic! Great sundowner, I plan to get copywrite and start marketing it when I get home could soon become a well loved classic!
Finally got the energy to leave Hampi and decided to head back on the nightbus to Palolem for a bit of familarity and beach time. Desperate to save the rupees after our expensive accomodation in Hampi we opted for the cheap local bus. Bench seats and little suspension! Having said that I managed to sleep quite well, think it may have been a different story for Martin as he had to spend most of the journey stopping me from falling off the beach and banging my head. For 250 rupees (3 quid) can't really go wrong.
Arrived back to Columb Bay, Palolem and spend the next couple of days attempting to get a tan, and eating at all my favourite places, tried oysters for the first time at Galgibad beach, not quite what I was expecting but nice! Finally got back to do a yoga session on Neptune Point, after two weeks of doing very little and with a massive cold and blocked nose I was absolutely rubbish and it had me in pain all day! Definate need to keep it up around the world though, will get Jess on the case when she gets out to Oz!
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