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Before I get to that, need to talk about my wet morning. Nope - no rain - just apparently didn't twist the cap on my camelback (drinking water bladder that sits in backpack) on correctly, so, when I tipped my pack on its side to pack to leave this morning, I had a liter of water immerse the entire pack. Oops. It looked like I wet my bunk bed ;(. Luckily, the beds have plastic liners, and luckily most all of my stuff is in plastic bags. But the pack was soaked through, so I used a plastic grocery bag to wear between it and myself on my walk. Not attractive, but effective!
You may think my blog title is about me and my journey. Nope. Wanted to share a story of the place I am staying tonight. So, today was a beautiful day. Really foggy in the morning, which gave way to beautiful blue sky and fluffy white clouds. Was on my way, feeling good (even after yesterday's ascent). I passed by a place with a sign for lunch. I started at 7, and it was 11, so a good time to stop and get my boots off and flip flops on before continuing onto Valenca for the night.
The place was gorgeous. An old stone house, beautiful courtyard, vineyard, etc. I ordered a sandwich, and was enjoying the perfect day.
A very friendly Canadian woman came down the stairs from another building, and was very friendly. Came to find out this was her place. The real story is that she did the Camino in 2008 with a childhood friend she hadn't seen for years. Her friend's wife had passed suddenly about 2 years before, and her husband about 10 months before. Her friend called out of the blue and said he was going, and thought it would be good for her, too. She had never heard of the Camino, and really didn't know him more than a few Facebook interactions after each spouse passed away. He said that miracles happen - she decided to go, too. Along the way, they began to fall in love. At one point, they stopped to take a picture at some old ruins on tops of a stone wall. They spent some time there, enjoying the beauty.
When they got home, they were looking at their photos, and noticed a For Sale sign in one of them (that they never noticed when they took the photo before). It was the ruins. Now She had a dream/plan - they talked about opening an albuerge together. Within 1 year, they left it all behind and started the project of building a B&B for pilgrims. While still in progress, it was stunning.
She gave me a tour, and she had the individual room available, so I took it as a sign, and stayed. Leslie (the owner) took me with her to go shopping in town (left a note on the door for other pilgrims), and off we went in her Renault 4 (yikes!!!) and picked up prawns for dinner. When we got back, there were 4 other pilgrims waiting (Kuhn and son from Belgium, and Christine and Nicholei from germany).
We had a fantastic dinner (the prawns were out of this world) and evening telling stories and playing cards around the big country table. The 4 others had just done "the hill" that morning - poor Kuhn - his 18 year old son took videos of him going up, and shared them with all of us. It wasn't pretty, and we all laughed until we cried. The place has been open for 5 months, and Leslie said this was the best time she's had with her guests. She even opened up one of her last bottles of their first year of making wine (which she usually does not do). It was really good!
It was such an unexpected/unplanned and magical day and evening - one I will keep warmly in my memories of my Camino.
And to Leslie (& Jeff, who I didn't meet, as for his 63rd birthday he asked to have 10-14 days off to do the Camino to Finisterre - again) - their story inspires me... And I hope to return to spend time in their slice of heaven again some day.
Stats:
10.48 miles
Start: rubiaes, Portugal
End: ~ pacas, portugal
(Lost steps)
- comments
lauren Oh great story! you deserved the nice day! keep it up, we are loving hearing of your journey! thanks for taking us with!
renee kubesh makes me wish my legs were longer!
kathryn my smellovision is letting me just take in the fresh air. What a peaceful path.
Mom and Dad Sharing and enjoying your stories, hearing your grunts and language up the hills! With you all the way.....God Bless!
Julie i LOVE this pic!
Warren and Karen Great stories Kristi. You have a travel writer lurking within...
kathryn you look like teenage mutant ninja turtle :)
Diane What an inspiring story! Wish I could be there with you! Keep making memories...love the pictures too!
Glenna So glad it was a beautiful day after a very challenging one! So enjoying your blogs, Kristi - thanks for sharing your days.
Kelly Love this story! Enjoy the journey-
olsonc58 What an inspiring story. Glad you had great day after "the hill". Keep them coming....: )