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Salamanca, Storks and Salty Porc
We have one day in Salamanca. It was not on our original plans but since it was on the route from Portugal to Madrid and some guide books suggested that it might be worth visiting we decided to see if they were correct.
Driving into Salamanca yesterday, we were struck by the huge number of storks that we saw. Many were lazily wandering through fields looking for food. Others were circling high in the sky with their huge wings gently moving in the thermals. Their nests, huge bundles of sticks set on roofs or chimneystacks can easily be spotted. One was, mysteriously, set above the large bell of a church steeple.
Today we headed into the city. It was clear from yesterday when we drove around the city that the outstanding feature would be the cathedral. This is set on a little hill inside the ancient walls, some of which still exists. The bus journey into the city was rather length involving a tour, so to speak, of a large housing 'estate'. Actually rather expensive houses where evidence of Spain's economic problems was not entirely clear.
In the city, however, it is very clear. So many shops are closed and deserted and the numbers of people in those that are open is low. Often there are sales and price cuts are very high, sometimes as high as 70%. Nevertheless, we also saw quite a few touring groups, mainly French in the city and this proved to be quite useful when we visited the New Cathedral, which was begun in the 16th century. According to the guide books one can find two, slightly startling carvings around the north door. We could not see them,
At that moment, a French tour group with guide in tow appeared and, of course, she was able to point them out much to the amusement of everyone. The first carving appears to be that of an astronaut, of the Dan Dare vintage. The second is of a devil that is eating an ice cream! The outer façade particularly the doors were stunning, even though the ravages of time and pollution has caused some damage. The streets were rich in local colour and no cars and noise, just lots of tables and chairs as cafes prepared for lunch. Heading down a side street, we came across a really surprising museum. It was very small and free and was a documentation centre for the Civil War. This is the first time we have seen any such site.
One of the issues that came up in the Paul Preston book on the war was the general campaign run by the Nationalists against the Republicans. According to his book Falangists were told in 1937, 'Comrade, it is your duty to root our Judaism, along with freemasonry, Marxism and separatism.' Now this was, to me, rather odd yet the museum has a room set aside dealing with Freemasonry. Why? Obviously, it is hard for us to understand much of what we see in these museums since we have little Spanish but even as I read Preston's book I found little to explain why the Nationalist had it in the Freemasons. A little task to pursue when we get home, I think.
In Bilbao we bought and eat a baguette containing Salamanca ham so, of course, we had to do the same in Salamanca. Wonderful stuff and even after several hours I can still taste the meat. It has a delicious smoky, salty texture that lingers long after completion.
We are now back at the campsite preparing for supper. Tomorrow we head off the Madrid and expect to stay there for quite a few days, to enjoy city life and visit, fro example, the Prado.
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