Potes in the Picos de Europa

14th May

Today we left the Basque country in some reasonable sunshine and moved to the west. The Picos are one of the oldest mountain ranges in Europe and have a great attraction for walkers as well for those just wanting to see some spectacular scenery.

The tourist travel books tell you that the north coast of Spain is the green coast. From the Pyreenes to Santander it is also very hilly. The road this morning was almost continuously twisting and turning as it ran between the many hills. It was ascending and descending in more than just the odd gentle swoop. Our one visit to a non-motorway provided even sharper hills and turns. It also produced in the early morning sunshine a group of walkers experiencing part of the multi pronged Camino de Santiago. Rucksacks on their backs, walking sticks or wooden staves in their hands, wide brimmed hats on their heads, they were part of what believe to be an almost continuous stream of people who walk some, or even the entire route. Even Michael Portillo walked a bit of it, apparently albeit for a TV show he was making.

When we reached St Vicente, a small but popular town on the coast we turned southwards towards Potes, a sort of frontier town in the Picos. It was about 40 kilometres or 25 miles. It was some road! It follows the Rio Deva for most of the way. As a result the road runs between the steep sides of a gorge that is about 20 miles long. Consequently, the road is a little narrow with sheer rocks on one side rising several hundred feet and on the other a steel barrier protecting one form the edge of the river. In places, the rocky overhang means we had to keep rather too far the left for comfort. Happily, it was not a road with a lot of traffic and for the most part is quite flat. Only the last 6 kilometres into the towns has any real slope on it so that it looks like a route to cycle!

The campsite called La Viorna is wonderful. You have shade, fantastic views in to the hills, immaculate facilities and space. It is also cheap!! That is, compared to the others we have used so far. It is overlooked to the north by some very high hills, some of which still have snow on the peaks.

As we sat here in the afternoon, we watched a Short-Toed Eagle hovering high in the sky looking for its next meal. Meantime sparrows, chaffinches pester us at our feet for seeds and other bits of food. Sitting here now it is quiet except for the noise of birds, other campers talking and the distant sound of the occasional vehicle in the town.

I think we may well stay for a few days, or longer.