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We left Santiago around midday. Caught our bus from the main terminal, and two hours later had exchanged Santiago, for the working port of Valparaiso. The setting of Valparaiso is somewhat unique. An amphithearte of hills packed tightly with brightly couloured houses overlooks the bay below, busy with cargo ships. The centre of the city known as ´puerto´ is an unremarkable, Chilean city, with a few interesting squares and markets, but little else of note. What makes Valparaiso so special, is the confused and ecclectic architecture that clings with fingernails to the sometimes seemingly vertical hillfaces. The various hills that make up the city are accessed by a number of small ascensors (furniculars). The hills of Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion were declared a UNESCO world heritage site, not only because of the stunning views from the various alleyways atop, but also as a brilliant example of unspoiled colonial archicture (or so the rough guide says). On our first night we went to a restaurant called Cinzano, which is one of the eldest in the town. Run by an eccentric elderly Chilean, whilst the food and decor werent the most impressive, the live music and the people watching was great fun.
The next day we set out from the hostel early to explore the various hills that make up this interesting city. We headed first into Centro to catch an ascensor up to Cerros Alegre and Concepion. The view from the top over the bay was brilliant, and as you climb through the maze of streets, vistas appear from different perspectives, unexpectedly around each and every corner. From here we walked down and across to the Western portion of the town. The bay below is the busiest part of the port, with cranes hauling cargo onto freight ships,and cargotrucks whizzing round. The port seems almost in a constant battle with the hills above, as the colourful and fast moving containers vye for attention with the multicoloured buildings that seem as though they are going to jump off their cliffs at any moment.
We took another asencor to the hill which offered a brilliant view back across the city and the port, before making our way West, we stopped off for some lunch in the main square of the city. The city has a reputation for being slightly unsafe, and wherever we went locals would warn us about openly touting cameras. We were especially vigillent throughout the day and didnt come across any problems. I would infact say I felt safer there than I did at times in Santiago. The afternoon wound lazily away like the labyrinthe of hills, asencors and streets that we were exploring. By the time we had made it to the other side of the city (a fair achievement given that we were travelling on foot and the city isn´t small) the sun was setting across the other side of the bay. We made for the pier, which was crowded with people hoping to view what promised to be an amazing sunset. The clouds burned red like a raging forest fire, above the hills as the sun slowly disappeared. The silhouete of the ever darkening hill against the seemingly increasingly vibrant mix of oranges and reds was stunning. As the sun dissappeared completely the sky faded from red to purple and was dragged alway by the setting sun. As nigh grasped the city the lights of the various hills twinkled, as if like fire flies suddenly awoken. They reflected into the sea below, giving it the appearence of a basket of pearls. It was truly a visual feast.
That night we went out to experience the nightlife of Valparaiso. It certainly lacked the sophistication of some of the larger cities, but the place we went to had an old local charm, with a long wooden bar and a mezzanine floor. It was an enjoyable night that lasted well into the morning, and slightly disrupted our plans for the next day. We had planned to venture further along the coast to some picturesque fishing villages and beach resorts, Papudo, Zappallar and Horcon. However the need for sleep was too great and by the time we awoke, half the day had disappeared. The next town along (only a 15minute drive) is Vina del Mar, Chiles premier beach resort. We went there for lunch and spent an afternoon strolling along the promenade by the beach and trying to get a feel for the place in a short space of time. It was a very nice resort, with expensive hotels overlooking a manicured beach. The streets were spotless, the avenues lined with palmtrees and the designer labels and shops all too familliar. It wasn´t the real Chile, of Valparaiso. It was very westernised, a fantastic beach resort nonetheless, but it may well have been Miami or Marbella. We returned for an early night, and prepared our gear for our flight to Rio.
We caught the early bus back to Santiago, caught another one to the airport, boarded the plane and said goodbye to Chile. As the plain climbed out of Santiago higher and higher, the grandeur of the Andes was finally unmasked. Like a veil over a statue about to be comissioned, the outlines of the mountains had teased us, and now the sheath had been removed, all was revealed. Searching for the spec that was Santiago below, became almost impossible as all scale and proportion were distorted and the mountains took centre stage. The snow capped peaks and glaciers within, finally disappeared as we rose further and eventually perched ourselves at 35,000 feet above the clouds.
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